Omega Brake Fluid Change - Oscar the omega
Sorry to everyone, another boring Omega question....
I am in the process of carrying out a 2 year service on an Omega 2.2L 2001my.

The service guide tells me that I have to replace the brake fluid.

The problem is that because my car has ABS,I'm a bit worried that if I do, then I might end up with air in the system that I might not be able to get out without the use of the Tech1 service tool, commonly used to actuate the ABS hydraulic actuator, whilst bleeding the system.

Does anyone have an practical experiences of brake fluid replacement on Omega?

Thanks
Omega Brake Fluid Change - Dynamic Dave
Unless I read your message incorrectly, you\'re attempting the change yourself? Won\'t doing this invalidate the 3 yr warrranty if you service the car, and not a dealer?

For reference, main Vaux dealer changed my brake fluid on my Vectra (2000 yr model) last year. 0.2 of an hour labour charge, and £2.49 for 0.4 litres of brake fluid. Total cost approx £17. Not worth getting your own hands dirty IMHO.
Omega Brake Fluid Change - Cyd
I've used a Gunsons Easy-Bleed kit on several ABS equiped cars and have never experienced any problems.

If you're using the traditional "pump the pedal" method then just make sure the fluid level in the reservoir is not allowed to drop too far so no air can be introduced (also pour in slowly so as not to create air bubbles).
Omega Brake Fluid Change - Sooty Tailpipes
I think as long as you exercise the ABS now and again, like on wet grass or ice/snow, it won't get stagnant fluid in it. I bet most dealers don't even bother to cycle the ABS like they're supposed to when they do a fluid change anyway. My Haynes says leave it to the dealer who will cycle the ABS with the TECH 2, but when I watched them they didn't. I didn't complain though, as they did it for free when they MOT'd it.
Omega Brake Fluid Change - MW
I too have used Gunson Easy Bleed for over 10 years. ABS is no problem. I bought it as my wife and I would always argue when I asked her to sit in the car for 45 mins while the job was done.
I usually use it to 'blow' out the old fluid. Then I fill up, and bleed it. Then bleed a second time. Works well. After the blow through, clean the nipple threads and put a tiny tiny smear of copper grease on them, so that in the next 2 years they will not rust in. Dont overtighten, as it is so easy to do.
If you do it manually, the secret is to close the blleed nipple when the peddle is down. This stops air being sucked back in on the peddle upstrock via the nipple threads. I didn't believe this at first, but it is true.
The sequence is open nipple...
peddle down...
close nipple...
peddle up...
open nipple...
down...
and so on.
Stand the fluid upright for a day after purchase to avoid air in suspension. Never re-use fluid. Only buy dot 4, not cheaper dot 3 fluid.
Good luck.
 

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