|
Our Yaris is 17 years old.
It has minimal underbody rust.
No brake pipes rust.
The exhaust is original.
Every three to four years I go underneath and apply Dinitrol or Waxoil with a brush to all slightly rusty arears - after wire brushing any mud/crud off.
The same with exhaust system but heat proof paint.
I do the same to areas where the paint has been stripped off by stone impacts.
Do the same to every car I own.
NO car maker can protect car bodies indefinitely. Even cars made from aluminium will and do corrode.
If you want a car body to last - maintain it.
See Old Rolls Royces and BMWs and Mercedes - they all rust .
All steel corrodes - it's a fact of chemistry.
Add salt/sand/stones and it's a perfect mix.
And after 10 years, any rustproofing wears.
Galvanised/ aluminium coated steel corrodes slowly as the covering dissolves first. Then the steel goes.
See the Forth Rail Bridge - continually repainted.
|
See the Forth Rail Bridge - continually repainted.
Not any more - the use of modern coatings means it can now go 25 years without being repainted.
|
|
It is 15 years old, probably with no underbody protection by now.
If it is properly repairable, get it done.
|
|
|
Not any more - the use of modern coatings means it can now go 25 years without being repainted.
ahem, ...
www.edinburghlive.co.uk/news/edinburgh-news/photo-...6
|
Not any more - the use of modern coatings means it can now go 25 years without being repainted.
ahem, ...
www.edinburghlive.co.uk/news/edinburgh-news/photo-...6
That confirms all is ok with the bridge paint - just a few isolated parts have issues.
|
|
|
|
|
NO car maker can protect car bodies indefinitely.
All steel corrodes - it's a fact of chemistry.
And after 10 years, any rustproofing wears.
The first two statements are clearly true, but I'm not sure about the third. As you have heard before, I have owned or looked after quite a few Pug 205s; the brochures for that car went into detail about the electrophoretic dip-coating process Peugeot used. 205 bodyshells were lightweight, but if they avoided damage they could survive for decades without corroding.
If you check the MoT history for H811GPL you will find almost the only mention of corrosion refers to brake pipes. But 205s have not been made for over 20 years, and since robots now do most of the assembly probably fewer Friday cars come off the production line. Those were a common source of rusty cars.
|
NO car maker can protect car bodies indefinitely.
All steel corrodes - it's a fact of chemistry.
And after 10 years, any rustproofing wears.
The first two statements are clearly true, but I'm not sure about the third. As you have heard before, I have owned or looked after quite a few Pug 205s; the brochures for that car went into detail about the electrophoretic dip-coating process Peugeot used. 205 bodyshells were lightweight, but if they avoided damage they could survive for decades without corroding.
If you check the MoT history for H811GPL you will find almost the only mention of corrosion refers to brake pipes. But 205s have not been made for over 20 years, and since robots now do most of the assembly probably fewer Friday cars come off the production line. Those were a common source of rusty cars.
Checked.
Car doing minimal annual mileage. less than 5k miles a year. Usually 1=to 2k
Not likely to see much salty water.
|
|
Similar story with my 2003 Corolla Verso but I’m really surprised with the rust proofing on my Audi A4 of a similar age. No bodywork or brake pipe advisories.
I assume the body must be galvanised ? Like my old Audi 80 which I’m sure was.
The Audi 80 bodywork was in a class of its own for a car made from steel. In fact there was an outcry from the Belgian owners club when the 80 was replaced by the A4 as they weren’t happy with the cost cutting.
|
|
So, generally, the opinion seems to be it's just age related & non specific to Japanese manufacturers?
Shame, it did come as a bit of a shock as all the external body work that usually starts to rust, bottom of doors, wheel arches etc have no sign; the car looks really good for it's age with only 80k on the clock.
|
So, generally, the opinion seems to be it's just age related & non specific to Japanese manufacturers?
Shame, it did come as a bit of a shock as all the external body work that usually starts to rust, bottom of doors, wheel arches etc have no sign; the car looks really good for it's age with only 80k on the clock.
Spray it with something.
|
|
|
|
|
<< Car doing minimal annual mileage. less than 5k miles a year. Usually 1=to 2k. Not likely to see much salty water. >>
True, but it's still 30 years old and done 150K. Probably 99% of cars can't claim that.
|
|
I cant see how not using a car much due to lockdown increases the rate of underbody rot..
But I can see how never hosing under a car and particularly in wheel arches and suspension components allows mud and salt to lock in the right ingredients for corrosion to start if there is a poorly protected or stone damaged part. Especially true if you use a 4x4 as some do.
Edited by brum on 03/12/2020 at 15:51
|
|
So apart from these minor advisories I expect the car has been a paragon of reliability Chesterfield ?
A friend made sure he ordered the last of the diesel Rav 4s before they stopped production. But I guess the optimum Rav 4 would be the latest D4D that was made without a DPF.
Would that be 2007 ?
|
|
If the car was left outside or in a damp garage, then rot will continue.
All that is needed is exposed metal and damp air. The steel need not be wet.
To prevent rust on exposed metal - apart from painting etc - a car needs to be stored in dry air.. Which means cold dry air - see a fridge or the Antarctic or warm dry air.
Air circulation to dry any existing damp mud etc is also helpful.
Simple chemistry.
Modern zinc coated steel is not as resistant as galvanised steel - the coating erodes quite quickly.
|
|
The quality of the rustproof coating is important. Sometimes it can make matters worse by separating slightly, allowing corrosion to progress unseen. So far, the 40yr old Ziebart on my TR7 has not separated.
To prevent rust on exposed metal - apart from painting etc - a car needs to be stored in dry air.. Which means cold dry air
For occasionally used classics, I think it might also help to disconnect the battery when not in use, thus preventing corrosive microcircuits. Anyway, it's worked for me. And preserves the battery.
|
|
|
|
So apart from these minor advisories I expect the car has been a paragon of reliability Chesterfield ?
A friend made sure he ordered the last of the diesel Rav 4s before they stopped production. But I guess the optimum Rav 4 would be the latest D4D that was made without a DPF.
Would that be 2007 ?
Yep, in the 3 years l've had it total reliability, with only the battery being replaced in that time.
This is one of the last mark 2's with no DPF, with the mark 3 coming in 2006. l'm not sure if the mark 3 were equipped with a DPF on launch but, as you say, by 2007 DPF's were starting to become common.
l can also see the point of a vehicle being used off road & the underside not being hosed off creating conditions for corrosion, though this isn't the case here. l bought it one owner from new (who l know & lives 5 minutes away) he never used it off road. Though l can't say l've been able to access underneath, it's washed (by hand) regularly & thoroughly.
l may have a look at a product to at least slow down the corrosion.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Certainly not as old as the car you highlight, but one of my daughters has an 05 plate Pug 307. She lives out in the sticks of Shropshire & commutes about 15-20 miles to work, initially through mud strewn country roads. That car keeps on going & apart from a recent ignition coil & consumables, only sees the annual service.
|
|
One thing I find helps keep the rust at bay and also keeps the car clean is a set of mud flaps . £14.50 from eBay and an hour to fit , but I expect the RAV 4 already has them as standard.
The dilemma I have is trying to find a non DPF diesel that is not rusted or worn out. These cars are getting on now , but the alternative is a petrol, but diesel fans , like me prefer the low end pull of an old style diesel.
One more question Chesterfield . What’s the ride like on your model RAv 4 ?
|
One thing I find helps keep the rust at bay and also keeps the car clean is a set of mud flaps . £14.50 from eBay and an hour to fit , but I expect the RAV 4 already has them as standard.
The dilemma I have is trying to find a non DPF diesel that is not rusted or worn out. These cars are getting on now , but the alternative is a petrol, but diesel fans , like me prefer the low end pull of an old style diesel.
One more question Chesterfield . What’s the ride like on your model RAv 4 ?
Yes, l also prefer the way a diesel drives, but as you say non DPF versions are getting on now. The next car l have, given my mileage is (apart from this year) around the 5/6K mark, will be petrol.
The ride in the mark 2 RAV is very good, pretty much on a par with a saloon/hatch. Well planted on the road too, with permanent 4x4.
|
|
Following on from this post........................l had considered looking for a replacement motor (new year motor thread) & had narrowed it down to an Octavia, Focus or Mazda 6 estate. However, as we all know looking at possible replacements has proved impossible.
Last week l took the RAV to the local mechanic who put it up on the ramp & we both had a good look underneath. The areas highlighted at the mot, sills around the rear suspension mounting area & the front subframe, did show surface corrosion but nothing that failed the "screwdriver test" What also seemed to be contributing to possible corrosion were the step boards, where the brackets go under & up to the fixings, holding mud & such by the sills.
Yesterday it went in to the shop, he removed the step boards & using a variety of drill attachments removed any loose top rust. Then applied his own oil based antirust solution, with a high pressure spray getting into all the difficult to reach places.
Looks a lot better now, both underneath & l prefer the external look without the step boards. l'll be keeping it for a while & see how it goes with future mot's.
|
|
|
|
|
|
