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I still change the oil on my 306 by the traditional DiY method, but I gave up trying on my 207 - it was just too awkward for ramps and general access. I am happy to pay the local garage to do the job every 18 months or so, especially when I found when checking the dipstick after the last change, that the new oil was still clean when I got home. I have never seen that before with a diesel engine, so I assume they did a complete drain rather than suck out of the dipstick tube.
Any crud in the sump will probably be at the bottom, so if your pump can't reach there you won't get a complete drain.
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My dad has one. We've used it on my 307 & 308 and his Berlingo engine.
It only ever manages to get 3.5 to 4L out. Doing a standard drain always gets at least 4.5L
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If you're keeping the car for several years, one of these Fumoto valves makes oil changes a doddle, full drain but no mess, i don't even need to raise the Forester or Landcruiser and i imagine if you drove the front wheels onto two bricks there would be enough room to do the job.
www.quickvalve.co.uk/index.htm
I've used them for a good few years now, never an issue, i dont use the spring clip they sell as a secondary safety device, just clip a new cable tie in each time instead (nothing is needed really unless you go rough offroading its just my belt and braces precaution), not leaked a single drop to date.
The big advantage is you can drain with the engine at max temperature without the danger of sploshing boiling hot oil over yourself or trying to catch a hot sump plug/washer before it vanishes into the bottom of the drain can.
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Read the description on the pump rate and then work out how long it will take to drain your sump. No need to bother about sludge, as if you do regular oil changes it shouldn't occur.
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Have used a vacuum pump on my current and previous cars. The current car I’ve hard for 7 years and I’ve always used the pump down the dipstick tube to change the oil. No worries about leaving sludge and crap behind because if you change the oil at yearly intervals there won’t be any.
I I think the only fear is that the sludge doesn’t get removed is if the oil has been left to go sludgy, in other words you’ve vastly extended the change interval or mileage.
When I first bought the vac pump, I checked after I’d used it and then removed the drain plug to see how much was left in the sump, the answer is hardly anything. Relax, use one and save all the scrambling underneath. That only applies if your oil filter is accessible!
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My drain plug on the Skywing goes into a castellated nut which prevents a complete drain and also acts as a strainer for say, bits of gasket or varnish. Its a bad design, and in that sort of context (like yours?) I'd think a pump might be better, though I've never used one.
I took the sump off for a couple of short oil changes. This was a pain, requiring removal of engine mountings and a cross brace, but hopefully it got rid of most of the accumulated debris.
There are, however, dead spaces in this (and probably other) engines which an oil drain does not clear. (The casting void behind the oil pump, for example, was completely full of sludge) so in practice one can never get rid of it all.
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There are, however, dead spaces in this (and probably other) engines which an oil drain does not clear. (The casting void behind the oil pump, for example, was completely full of sludge) so in practice one can never get rid of it all.
That sounds like poor design, unusual for Japanese engines which usually drain down fully upon removal of the drain plug.
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Both the Yaris and Jazz drainplugs are at one end of the sump.
SO when draining oil, I jack up the other side of the car a little so ALL the oil flows to that end
Obsession!.
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SO when draining oil, I jack up the other side of the car a little so ALL the oil flows to that end.
Peugeot sumps usually drain from the rear, ideal for use on ramps.
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There are, however, dead spaces in this (and probably other) engines which an oil drain does not clear. (The casting void behind the oil pump, for example, was completely full of sludge) so in practice one can never get rid of it all.
That sounds like poor design, unusual for Japanese engines which usually drain down fully upon removal of the drain plug.
I wouldn't have known about, or thought of this, if I hadn't stripped the oil pump because of fine ferrous metal settling out of my oil on a long stand.(a couple of months while I was back in the UK). so I have no way of knowing how unusual this void (or the fine ferrous metal, come to that) is.
Similarly, short of completely stripping an engine, I don;t know how one could determine that it had drained down fully.
.I suppose people who completely strip engines for a living (an increasingly rare breed?) would have some idea, but I doubt such voids are completely unique to this engine.
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Similarly, short of completely stripping an engine, I don;t know how one could determine that it had drained down fully.
I assume the Deisel in my 15 year old Toyota drains fully because fresh oil stays clean for up to 1000 miles, on changing oil on 1.6 Hdi's and BMW 2.0 litre D's, by the time you've driven to the shops you'd never know the oil had been changed by the state of the dipstick.
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Similarly, short of completely stripping an engine, I don;t know how one could determine that it had drained down fully.
I assume the Deisel in my 15 year old Toyota drains fully because fresh oil stays clean for up to 1000 miles, on changing oil on 1.6 Hdi's and BMW 2.0 litre D's, by the time you've driven to the shops you'd never know the oil had been changed by the state of the dipstick.
Seems reasonable in those cases, but perhaps not in this one.
I'd think the exchange with this void-space would have been rather slow, since the join was quite closely fitting, and since otherwise the space would have been flushed cleanish by fresh oil and would not have become sludge-filled.
Any resultant slow discolouration of the bulk oil would thus be difficult or impossible to distinguish from contamination freshly generated by engine operation.
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I think it was on your recommendation GB that I fitted one to my old Saab (which I no longer have) about 7 years ago. Sludge in the sump was a well-known problem with the 9-5 if the oil was not changed more regularly than the manufacturer's recommendation, so I had the car on 6000 mile oil & filter changes. This meant every 4 months, so having the drain valve fitted made life a lot easier. Still needed to jack the car up and removing one of the front wheels to take off the undertray, but otherwise straightforward. No hot oil up the sleeve ;-)
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No hot oil up the sleeve ;-)
Worth fitting just for that reason alone glad it worked out for you, the sump thread on the Scooby is larger than normal, it's like someone's opened the bath tap at hot drain time via the normal plug.
Edited by gordonbennet on 16/10/2020 at 22:32
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