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P1032 refers to the pre-catalyst oxygen sensor heater circuit. The o2 sensor will not report information until it's warmed up, and so it has a heater element incorporated in it which switches on when the engine is cold to allow the sensor to warm up and become active more quickly. This heater element could've failed meaning a new o2 sensor is required, or you may have a blown fuse or wiring fault in that regard.
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That description doesn't appear to have anything to do with coked up inlet valves, which is the other main interpretation offered for the (TBH, rather inadequate) original fault description.from your dealer.
IF the original diagnosis at source was REALLY "a problem with the valve" then I'm not surprised warranty were unimpressed.
I'd interpret that (which I shouldn't have to do) as the EGR valve, BUT there's no obvious reason why this should render the EMS incommunicado.
OP, you need better information. I understand car mechanics is not your field, but you need to insist they write down their actual diagnosis rather than some patronising baby talk.
This might of course, reveal that patronising baby talk is all they got.
I think your title probably has it right. This sounds like a neurological rather than a cardiovascular or respiratory problem, and until that is addressed, chasing physical faults on the basis of fault codes generated by the system is quite likely to be a waste of time.
I've got no experience with car warranties, but it seems to me if you have evidence of a fault, diagnosing the precise nature of that fault is part of fixing it, and should be covered by any warranty that means anything.
That's really a consumer law issue though and is the sort of thing that HJ's Agony Column used to be good at.
I'd suggest that, given your professional situation, if you put your problem a bit more in the public eye a car company is going to look VERY bad if they give you the run around.
Edited by edlithgow on 27/04/2020 at 05:33
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Thanks
Up till now Peugeot has done nothing. They told me the engine need strpping but nothing. to date. Contact them on Mon but they just say sometimes this week. So i still don't know what is wrong with my car
Ill update once i know for others as a reference
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Hi Guys this is the outcome from Peugeot
Checking the quality of the quality of the fuel in the vehicle, to be sure that the ethanol content is below 10%
Check the compressions and the leakage rates of each of the engines three cylinders
Check the condition of the turbocharger air/heat exchanger for any signs of excessive wear
And finally to remove the vehicles inlet manifold / oil vapour remover so we are able to see the engines 8 inlet valves and their stems
and determine if they are coked up with excessive carbon polymer build up. (which they are)
As this is not a sudden mechanical failure and has developed over time, unfortunately on this occasion this would not be covered by the extended warranty.
Now they are asking me to pay £1456.40 if I want it repairs.
£500 if I just want it t be put together without repairing it.
I seriously cant afford that much money
Since I bought that car I have had only problem after problem
Ay suggestions please. Im desperate
thanks
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How much is the bill for work carried out so far ?
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How much is the bill for work carried out so far ?
If they want £500 to put it back together, presumably £250 for taking it to bits?
£1456 to clean the valves and reassemble sounds a lot, this is I guess a Peugeot dealer.
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What makes us think either there's something the OP isn't telling us, or the dealer is making a right meal of this at his expense?
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Im just copying and pasting the report
car been service every year currently 25410 on clock
Here a chronological event
Vehicle bought on the 1st of Sep 2015
· 23rd Oct 2015 - Rattling noise from passenger side window.
· 28th Oct 2016 - Eco not working - Fault P2299. Replaced accelerator pedal. Battery test failed.
· 7th Nov 2016 - Eco not working - battery change.
· Feb 2017 - Rattling noise from rear passenger side- door rubber seal changed.
· 17th March 2017 - Rattling noise from driver side – (see next)
· 5th April 2017 – Checks made and noise from vehicle confirmed as a rear exhaust bracket broken- replaced mounting. Also repair the glass sunroof cover.
· 23rd Oct 2017 - 4th Nov 2017 - Repair manufacture defect - scratching on inside of both OS & N/S front doors due to defective rubber.
· 1st June 2016- Passenger door seal coming away, Start/Stop system not working - Alternator replaced, Download of latest version of the engine management system. Software updated.
· 1st June 2018 - JAD ECU software Download recall
· 1st June 2018 AA - Spark plugs changed by AA as car broke down.
· 2nd July 2018 - OSF door seal replaced. Rear boot switch not working. Temperature gauge malfunctioned on receipt of car.
· 3rd July 2018 - Replaced temperature sensor and tyre warning light
· 11th July 2018 - Aircon noise when on - Confirmed faulty aircon re-gas required.
· 28th Aug - 8th Sep 2018 - Realigned hatch door, Replaced sun visors. Charged battery overnight, needed to order door trim -
· 1st of Oct till 5th of Oct - Door trim refit -
· 27th Aug 2019- Oil leaking - Replaced Oil Seal, cam covers and timing belt tensioner cover -
· 21st April 2020 - engine failure
This what happen so far
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Hi
Initial diagnostic £75
Further diagnostic with engine lot more in-depth checks which take around two hours to carry out, £300 extra
These include as follows:
Checking the quality of the quality of the fuel in the vehicle, to be sure that the ethanol content is below 10%
Check the compressions and the leakage rates of each of the engines three cylinders
Check the condition of the turbocharger air/heat exchanger for any signs of excessive wear
And finally to remove the vehicles inlet manifold / oil vapour remover so we are able to see the engines 8 inlet valves and their stems
and determine if they are coked up with excessive carbon polymer build up. (which they are)
So £1081.4 is to clean and put everything together
I did ask if they can contribute some and the answer is no.
They have given me by close of business on Monday to make a decision before they remove my car from the work shop.
Not a lot i can do over the weekend
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Tricky one this . The car had obviously been a lemon from day one . Warranties generally only cover a “failure “ of a component, not coked up valves . I suspect the dealer knew what was wrong with it before they opened the bonnet , so they could be stringing this one out . If you pull the car out in pieces and not fixed, what are you going to do. ? Can’t really give a definitive answer to this . It’s a known fault , the dealer should have advised you of this . It’s possible to get it fixed by an Indy garage for less than £500 .
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I'm still concerned that the coked-up inlet tract, which, in a non-DIY context, is serious enough in itself, doesn't seem to explain the EMS problems and codes, so there may also be a management system issue.
Sorry OP. I realise this doesn't really help you go forward.
I'd shop around for quotes with the info you now have, to include collection of the vehicle from the Peugeot Posse.
No way would I give them any more money if I didn't absolutely have to.
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Valves don't just coke up in any engine. There are additives in fuel to keep engines clean, unless you've been using very poor quality cheap fuel. Or unless the car has forever been used for short local journeys only with the engine cold.
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Valves don't just coke up in any engine. There are additives in fuel to keep engines clean, unless you've been using very poor quality cheap fuel. Or unless the car has forever been used for short local journeys only with the engine cold.
I thought they did in DI engines, though I don't know if this is one.
I might suspect an EGR fault also, though again, I'm not familiar with this engine.
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I thought they did in DI engines, though I don't know if this is one.
I might suspect an EGR fault also, though again, I'm not familiar with this engine.
The OP said this engine is a petrol. He mentioned in his first post the spark plugs were last changed two years ago
In the case of direct injection diesel engines the inlet manifolds can clog up due to a mix of engine oil mist from the engine breather and exhaust gas via the EGR system. The purpose of the EGR system is one and one only. To reduce combustion temperature and subsequently reduce NOx emissions. The EGR valve should be closed at engine idle and at full load. If it wasn't the engine idle would be poor and the performance would be poor under full load, due to exhaust gas reintroduction. The EGR valve is opened in stages under cruise conditions so that its effect is unnoticeable by the driver. If the EGR valve was stuck open the driver would certainly notice very poor running, if the engine ran at all.
Many people suspect the EGR valve for lots of problems where in fact its purpose is very simple and specific. It's a valve, and just like any other valve it only opens and closes.
If the valves are coked then the engine must either have been running very poorly (the OP said it was running well) and had a problem that led to very inefficient combustion, such as incorrect valve timing, blocked air intake, blocked exhaust, low fuel pressure or as I said earlier using cheap inferior quality fuel. I'm absolutely convinced that fuel purchased from supermarkets does not contain the same quality additives as branded fuel, and certainly not as the better quality and more expensive higher octane fuel. That's why it's cheaper. The supermarkets are not doing us a favour with lower fuel prices. The quality of their product is lower.
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DI = Direct Injection.
If I'd meant diesel I'd have referred to it as "diesel"
DI petrol spark ignition engines are reported to suffer from inlet tract coking due to a lack of petrol mist in the induction path (since the fuel charge is injected directly into the cylinders), which means the gunge from EGR (where this is in use) and positive crankcase ventilation systems (PCV) is not washed off the valve backs by petrol solvent.
In DI petrol spark ignition engines, the petrol quality would be expected to have relatively little impact on valve-back-coking, since not much petrol gets to the valve backs. There could, I suppose, be some effect due to unburned or partly burned fuel derivatives coming in via EGR and PCV systems.
According to
https://www.ultimatespecs.com/car-specs/Peugeot/110489/Peugeot-308-2018-12-PureTech-130.html
this is a 3-cyl inline DI engine
(Mind you, they also state lubrication is "null" which isn't very confidence-inspiring)
If I had a valve-back coking problem on a DI petrol spark ignition engine I'd look at blowby (OP has IIIRC had a compression/leakdown test done which should eliminate that) and the state of any oil separation filters in the EGR and PCV systems.
IF that all checked out OK I'd clean it, perhaps using brake fluid, and consider making some catch cans to further intercept any incoming gunge from the EGR and PCV systems.
BUT I wouldn't worry about it much, since I can't see how it would generate most of the error messages reported above.
I'd worry that I had an EMS that was psychologically unstable.
Perhaps because I saw 2001 at an impressionable age?
Edited by edlithgow on 03/05/2020 at 04:02
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DI = Direct Injection.
If I'd meant diesel I'd have referred to it as "diesel"
I take the point. DI = Direct Injection, but that's generally referred to in diesels, as opposed to Indirect Injection.
Petrol direct injections are usually referred to as GDI, Gasoline Direct Injection.
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DI = Direct Injection.
If I'd meant diesel I'd have referred to it as "diesel"
I take the point. DI = Direct Injection, but that's generally referred to in diesels, as opposed to Indirect Injection.
Petrol direct injections are usually referred to as GDI, Gasoline Direct Injection.
Not by me. That'd conflict with my rabid anti-Americanism, so would be unacceptable..
You get indirect injection in petrol engines too (which don't suffer from the coking problem to the same extent as DI ones) so that doesn't seem to work as a source of distinction.
I did once refer to petrol as "gas" a couple of years ago,when talking to a Taiwanese, but I punched myself in the face sharpish, and havn't done it again.
Edited by edlithgow on 03/05/2020 at 12:38
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OP, it might be worth finding out the results of these investigations (if you don't already have them), and their interpretation by the dealer (ditto) and reporting them on here. This would be especially true if you decide to part company with the dealer for now.
From what they've done, it looks like they were thinking of inlet tract coking from the start, suggesting its a known generic fault with these engines, as (I believe, no experience with them) it is with direct injection engines in general.
Specifically, the compression and leakdown cylinder test results would give a clue as to whether you've got excessive blowby which could contribute to the problem, either from bore wear (probably unlikely at this age) or piston ring sticking (still probably unlikely, but less so)
(Incidentally, 8 intake valves seems to imply 3 in each end cylinder, which seems a lot, and 2 in the middle, which seems a bit odd, though there might be a good reason for it)
I'd guess the turbocharger check was for it leaking oil into the inlet tract, which would contribute to the problem.
"Öil vapour remover" is mentio0ned. What was its state? Was it clogged with oil and soot? (which would be consistent) or was it squeeky clean? (which would be suspicious)
Assuming your compressions etc are OK, you're left with a "They all do that, Sir" generic fault, which is likely to recur. (plus a worrying EMS question mark).
There are various DIY work-arounds to the inlet tract coking that I could suggest but they are probably not appropriate to your situation.
Ethanol is supposed to contribute to the coking problem, I THINK by water absorption leading to phase separation of the fuel so you get a slug of non-combustible stuff going through the injectors leading to more soot formation. This can be partly addressed by not having fuel hanging around for a long time (\So don't fill up if you aren't going to use it soon, and get fuel from high turnover outlets like...er...supermarkets :) and de-watering additives, which are, ironically, alcohol-based..
Edited by edlithgow on 04/05/2020 at 16:50
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Peugeot told me that they will have to order the parts now and hopefully will get them by end of the week
The only code/report they gave me is P1032 AND 1033. TSB B1AW0131Q0 for cleaning of the valves
Any idea
thanks
Edited by GarenI on 04/05/2020 at 17:33
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https://www.peugeotforums.com/threads/3008-technical-service-bulletins-tsb.274345/
"Anyone can use Peugeot Servicebox for free to look up their own car and see the TSB's that exist. However, you have to pay for access to actually read the full articles, which guide the dealer thorough parts required, fix process and time allowed.
An hour on Servicebox costs just under £10 (after Euro conversion), but you can then read the full TSB's".
Apparently brokeness is now quite valuable intellectual property.
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