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This engine is belt driven - if it's not been done, then get it done as part of the deal, otherwise get the cost knocked off the price. It's cleary due a service, so make sure that is done - and insist on the correct oil. Have a look at its MOT history online to see if it has needed expensive repairs to get through.
125k in 6 years implies a lot of motorway work, but I would still be thinking that a new clutch might not be that far away. Find out if it's been changed, if not, can you stand the £1k it might cost to replace it.
It will have a DPF, but likely at 124k the fluid will have been refilled. If not, this is likely to need doing, and will set you back a few £00. The actual filter may also need to be cleaned or replaced - again if this has not been done yet, another bill for a few £00 coming up.
It probably has rear discs with integrated bearings, which are on the dear side to replace - have they been done?
In general this engine is pretty good, not suffering too many troubles (unlike the smaller 1.6).
What sort of use are you going to put it through? 8-10k a year in mixed use, or piling on 20+k a year? And how long do you need to keep it for, before you are not going to be too upset if it has to be scrapped?
Oh, and if it's an EGS semi-auto AVOID it all costs! My mate has just been nearly bankrupt by a C4 Picasso of the same mileage and engine that lunched its gearbox and clutch - and despite forking out over 2 grand it still won't drive!!
If it's the blue one on Autotrader, then it doesn't look too bad. Manual so that's an advantage. MOT history doesn't look too bad - a bit of work on the front suspension done, and handbrake (common fail on these for the electric handbrake) Says rear tyres near the limit - check they've been replaced, or get them done as part of the deal. Cross check the prices of other ones with 'normal' (ie 60k) miles to see if the saving is worthwhile. Oh, and note that the 2.0 can be a bit thirsty round town / if you give it some beans!!
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The 2L diesel engine is usually more bullet proof than the 1.6.
Although I'd be baulking at that service interval, it probably is in line with Peugeot's recommendations of 20,000 miles. Although it looks like they've gone beyond that - which to me would come over as owner neglect.
The important question is, was the correct oil used each time? Or will the turbo oil feed pipe be getting blocked and start eating turbos?
Edited by Gibbo_Wirral on 09/09/2016 at 14:10
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If it's the blue one on Autotrader, then it doesn't look too bad. Manual so that's an advantage. MOT history doesn't look too bad - a bit of work on the front suspension done, and handbrake (common fail on these for the electric handbrake) Says rear tyres near the limit - check they've been replaced, or get them done as part of the deal. Cross check the prices of other ones with 'normal' (ie 60k) miles to see if the saving is worthwhile. Oh, and note that the 2.0 can be a bit thirsty round town / if you give it some beans!!
Thanks for all the messages
This one is very informative!
Yes it's the blue one on Autotrader
I'm in a quandary now, don't know what to do to be honest! It'll do about 6000 miles a year max as it'll be a second vehicle. I would get it serviced immediately. I've had DPF probs with my other car so don't want to repeat that!
The only comparable one on Autotrader is a silver 2009 1.6 from Desirablecars.com but it's £3k more. Done 68K miles. Apart from the fact it's £3000 more I'm
A bit concerned that the business is a broker not a garage. Plus £9k is all my cash too. But what do you think? You sound really knowledgeable! I don't even know how to check the MOT advisories ??
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This one has had oil changes at 19, 18, 21, 26 and 24 thousand intervals.
It might be okay, but I wouldn’t touch it. Even though it is likely motorway miles.
Only 6000ish miles a year – don’t even think of buying a modern diesel – go petrol.
DPF problems await you!
If you must go ahead and buy it anyway, have those rear tyres replaced. You should ALWAYS have your best tyres on the rear. Don’t let them do it with cheap ditchfinders – get some prices for decent boots and negotiate the price down and get them done yourself. Something from Goodyear, Conti or Yoko spring to mind.
100k is a decent life for a clutch, maybe longer for one used for motorway miles, so budget for a clutch (and maybe DMF) in the near future (£1000?)
As mentioned it’s due a service. Also check the belt change interval and when that would be due.
It’s mentioned to be a manual – have the ‘box fluid changed.
Me? I’d spend more on something with less miles and a better service history.
This one has the hallmarks of a company hack that’s been neglected, IMO.
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The miles themselves aren’t the issue. It’s the service history.
I sold on a Rover 800 Vitesse Sport (2 litre turbo petrol) with 187k to a ROC member who was chuffed to bits – it was a blast because it had been very carefully looked after all it’s life.
My current Saab was bought at 42k and now has 106k up and I’ve had it 6 years (it’s now 9). It’s never been more than 7k between oil changes and usually less 9since I had it, c14k prior). It’s had 2 ‘box fluid changes, several brake fluid changes and 2 coolant changes. Full sets of pads and discs and shocks. Several suspension bushes replaced with HD. I’m expecting at least another 10 years out of it.
Remember, the design life of most cars is 12 years / 120,000 miles with recommended servicing. Increase the servicing and you can expect to increase it’s life.
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Thanks everyone.
After reading all these I think I will go for the 2009 with 68K for nearly £9000, even though it's my top budget with no wiggle room. It is the 1.6 engine though so I will hope not to get trouble from it.
Strangely, the high miler one comes up as a higher valuation on What Car than the 68K one! Wonder why that is?
Any more advice feel free, I set off on the 3 hr trip at 7.30am tomorrow, 10th Sept.
T I A
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Unless you live in the remote wilds of the Scottish Highlands or the equivalent, buying a car 3 hours away from you is nuts. Sorry to be so blunt, but it is.
Any problems, you HAVE to give the selling garage the opportunity to carry out repairs, etc. But the cost of getting the car to them, of getting yourself back home - and then repeating the process in reverse once the repairs are carried out - is entirely down to you. They are under no obligation to supply you a loan car, either.
As said by others, buying a modern DPF-equipped diesel to do 6k miles a year is asking for problems.
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I think I will go for the 2009 ..... It is the 1.6 engine though so I will hope not to get trouble from it.
You're an amateur gambler, right? can't be a professional, no pro gambler would ever bet more than he can afford to lose.
Ah, well Rob. Just can't help some people.
I'm out!
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I'm sorry you think it's nuts. I think it's selecting the best example you can, wherever its location. Yes I'm an amateur and don't apologise for it. I'm on here for advice and have had some good tips from lots of posters, with thanks. That has helped me decide not to go for the high miler. Whenever us 'amateurs' buy vehicles we do as much research as poss then trust in the dealers and hope for th,e best. Any of us could buy a lemon or a gem. I change cars every three years and out of about the last 7 or so cars have only had one lemon, luckily.i always buy top of the range in whatever I'm looking at, as they retain more value when part exchanging I find. Therefore I have to source the best.
Many thanks to most of you for your kind words and good advice.
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We're nearly all amateurs, so don't feel any need to apologise for it. Some of us have worked in the trade or servicing/repairs, some still do. Others have built race engines for a hobby. My speciality field was engine oil development - though these days my work in the oil industry is in a very different field.
The simple fact these days is that modern diesels, with all the pollution control equipment fitted to them, are horribly unsuited to low annual mileage. Big bills WILL happen sooner, rather than later. Those bills will far outweigh the savings you would have made on fuel costs.
You would be far better off finding a petrol-engined version. Preferably with a manual gearbox. Yes, they are relatively rare. But the prices are lower, because people still think 'diesel for economy', whilst not knowing about the DPF, etc. So you end up getting a newer, less likely to be problematic car, for similar money.
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Don't touch the 1.6 diesel!!! It's a notoriously soft engine which suffers failed turbo seals and turbo failure at alarmingly low mileages which often sees the blades disintegrate and ingested by the engine which kills it. Part of the problem may be Peugeots daft long servicing intervals aimed at scoring fleet sales rather than aiding longterm durability. A quick look online at 1.6 PSA HDI engine problems will show up loads of tales of woe and as a trader I won't touch them.
The 2.0 is certainly a better engine but with the low mileage you do you will suffer particulate filter issues and should not be looking at diesels with one fitted plus dual mass flywheels are another common failure on these beyond 70k which cost between £1,000 and £1,500 depending on who's quoting and quality of parts used. I realise this leaves you with limited options regarding people carriers or large estates as petrol models are rare sadly.
If you must then buy the best you can afford with a full service history and by full I mean one with oil and filter EVERY year regardless of mileage and forget anything that's been run on a shoestring. Remember also than any modern particulate filter equipped diesel will require a regular long run 30 mins or more at steady motorway speeds to allow the filter to regenerate or you'll block it. This eats into your fuel saving unless it fits with your regular usage. I always recommend to anyone shopping on a budget to keep it simple. Avoid anything complex and walk away from poorly maintained motors, they'll cost you heavily in the future. Plus take someone who knows their stuff with you, even if you've got to pay a mechanic. Garages will sell you anything to make money, many are utter rogues and care only about their short term profit.
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ANY car with this mileage and age can be a money pit. If you wish to proceed with buuying the 5008 then be aware.
The car can take mega mileage but the component parts may need replacing- clutch DMF DPF etc etc etc.
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Having experience of long oil change intervals (vag) I would strongly recommend anyone avoid cars on such schemes. I notice the car in the original post has gone a ridiculous 26k and 24k in later life. The engine will be fubar....
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The 1.6 can be problematic, there is no doubt! Assuming it has now been bought I would advise the OP to get it in the garage and do the following:
1. Check for any signs of leaking injectors (black gunge around them) - if they are then have them removed and new seals fitted. In any case, get them to check that all the nuts are tight.
2. Get the DPF / Cat removed to get access to the turbo oil feed pipe, remove the lower banjo bolt and dig the filter out of it.
3. Get the oil changed annually using the proper C2 spec oil.
2 alone will prevent the turbo getting wrecked, however, it may not prevent the engine furring up. Keep an ear out when you start the engine, if it starts knocking at cold start, going away after a few seconds, then the strainer in the oil pick up in the sump is getting blocked. In this event, get the sump taken off, and the filter removed from the oil pick up.
Oh, and check the dipstick - if it's the original yellow plastic one (I doubt it will be on a car of this age) then get a new, modified, one - or the end breaks off and you have to remove the sump anyway!
Edited by RichardW on 11/09/2016 at 09:20
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Thanks for continuing advice.
After much consideration and reading your posts I went to see the 2L 124k miles one.
It started no prob, bodywork and interior looked genuine and was as expected. Dipstick was the old yellow one and I couldn't remove it but oil cap clean. No bluey smoke from exhaust when revving hard when immobile. Couldn't feel any rust around sills etc. Pressed on corners of car and it returned to center as expected. And I really liked it, for what that's worth.
Other than that I didn't have a clue what rubber parts should be well lubed, what probs would look like under the bonnet, (although I did make a good show of peering about, listening etc!!) or anything else. Your advice is very good tho and thanks. Guess I need an idiots guide.
I didn't go to see the 1.6L due to many of you saying the engine wasn't sturdy and it being £3K more to buy.
The DVDs in the back require an external portable DVD plus headphones,( which is archaic surely?) and this admittedly small detail did put me off.
Since then I have continued to scour the car websites but none has ALL the spec I want apart from that one ??
So I'm
Considering arranging an RAC check on it, the budget £99 one. My hubby is far from a car buff,( I know more than him so that gives you an idea), and I don't know a mechanic who would come nearly 3 hrs with me, (no surprise there tbf!)
If the report is mostly ok I would arrange a test drive.
Dare I ask what you think??
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Don't think you'll find many who are willing to recommend a Peugeot with 124k under its belt. I've seen the previous 8v generation of this engine doing 500k plus in E7 taxis, even one that managed over 850k on its original engine and gearbox but the later 16v engines aren't proving as robust.
They can still be fine at the mileage if well maintained, however it could also be an expensive white elephant with plenty of expensive problems just waiting to go wrong.
Dual mass flywheel and clutch can fail as early as 70k and if they've not been done already they'll be approaching the end of their lifespan. That'll cost £1,000-£1,500 depending on parts and who's quoting.
Plus it's due a timing belt and water pump if it's not already been done which is at least £300-£400 on these. I wouldn't drive it anywhere without both fitted including tensioners. If it snaps the engine's ruined! Don't let the dealer fob you off by telling you the interval is 10 years! It's ten years or 100k whichever comes soonest. If they say it's been done you need proof in the service history.
Particulate filter is another common issue, along with turbo failure, leaking injectors, ABS control module and any number of other electrical gremlins.
If you're shopping on a budget keep it simple! Forget the toys, they're not important. Reliability and safety are the most important issues. Buy the best you can afford up front rather than spend a fortune fixing it later and go for condition, history and mileage above all else. Leather seats and sat nav are not important. I'd go for a lower mileage and less complex petrol model or a more basic diesel with less miles and possibly spend more money to get something on the right side of 80k.
Is this the car you're talking about btw? Auto Trader #DrivenByMe
www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20160819694...1
Edited by SLO76 on 14/09/2016 at 15:55
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You've previously said that you only do 6k miles a year, I seem to recall.
If you go for diesel (the 2.0HDi as an example), they seem to average 43-44-ish mpg. That works out (at current prices) at about £700 in diesel per annum.
If you go for petrol (1.6THP, similar power to the 2.0HDi), that's roughly 33mpg, which works out at £900 per annum in fuel.
You will get a hell of a lot more car for similar money by going petrol. It will almost certainly be more reliable, you will not suffer DPF problems (minimum £500 repair cost when it goes, and it will almost certianly have problems).
Modern diesels are totally unsuited to low annual mileage. You are asking for problems by buying one.
Petrol you get a newer, lower-mileage car, probably for less money. It is more reliable, less likely to suffer expensive problems, and the downside is that it costs you £200 in fuel per annum more.
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Why the fixation on a Peugeot 5008?
Lots of more reliable vehicles for your budget with lower miles, full service history etc. (e.g. a 2008 Ceed for £2975, 70K miles, serviced every 10K, see Autotrader, must be many more, Toyotas, Hondas, even Mondeos).
I spent years on a tight budget with 5 children to ferry to and from school and then 2 to Uni, make, model and entertainment toys were irrelevant, what I needed was a car that would serve as reliable transport.
Rejecting a car because it doesn't have a quality DVD player for back seat passengers is not, I would suggest, the way to go about your selection. (Might keep them happy while waiting for the breakdown service, I suppose?)
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Most of the advice is to walk away and yet the op refuses to accept it. Sounds like rose tinted glasses and ear defenders are being worn by the OP.
I'll remind you again, the car has been grossly neglected, gone way over its recommended intervals, which even if they were observed are considered to be too long. Lots of major costly items REQUIRE doing immediately if you want the car not to go bang in a few months.
Its not even a suitable candidate for your mileage profile, you had DPF problems before, not surpising at 6k a year, are you a masochist?
Btw why couldnt you remove the dipstick, was it broken?
Edited by brum on 15/09/2016 at 00:17
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Btw why couldnt you remove the dipstick, was it broken?
IIRC they have a plastic tip, which often breaks off, and jams up the hole.
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Thanks for your posts
Ok I will try to find a petrol one.
I won't compromise on leather and at least some toys though. I do have to like it after all. It's to be my second vehicle, I just need more space at the weekends, hence the low miles I would travel. I chose the 5008 as it has great spec at a good price compared to Ford, Citroen etc
I have leather, heated seats and front and rear parking sensors so I expect at least that. I have a Garmin so don't really need satnav but if it's there anyway it'll save transferring it from car to car. I buy quality cars with the best spec that I can afford, usually with low to average mileage, hence all my questions about this one. I've had DPF issues with my current car but feel I've just been unlucky, as my friend has a Citroen Grand Picasso with 88K who only does short journeys and she's had no issues at all.
I've read enough, I won't buy it. Thanks.
My next question will be about a different car ??
But thanks to those of you who have given genuine and helpful advice, I really appreciate your help.
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Sorry we've mostly been negative about the Peugeot, but I think that French + diesel + several years old + high mileage add up to too many compounded risks!
It looks as if you want something with plenty of room to use at weekends - presumably for around the £6k budget that you were going to spend on the Peugeot.
Maybe a petrol-powered Japanese estate like a Mazda 6, Toyota Avensis, Subaru Legacy/Outback or Honda Accord? Or a Toyota Verso, Subaru Forester or Honda CRV if you need an MPV or SUV. The top-spec ones are quite well-equipped. If you want lots of space, there's the Volvo V70 or XC60/90.
Edited by Avant on 16/09/2016 at 00:26
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Sorry to pour cold water on your plan but no one with any motoring know how was going to recommend a high mileage diesel Peugeot, though I do understand your fondness for the big car. It looks a comfy well equipped big wagon but there's just too much to go wrong.
Out of curiosity. Do you really need such a large 7 seater motor? I get the liking for a bit of comfort but would a large family estate or a 5 seat SUV do? We run a Honda CRV for example which is a comfy big bus and previous gen 2.0 petrols are fairly easy to come by around £6-£7k often with leather. Not great on fuel but will touch 35mpg on a run. The 2.2 CDTi doesn't have a DPF to worry about (later 1.6& 2.2 DTEC do) but you still have the possibility of turbo failure and higher mileage for the money. Our 1.6 diesel can break 60mpg but you'll have fork out a wee bit more.
Plenty of nice big V70 Volvos with loads of kit too and you can get 7 seats there and the 5cyl petrol engines are capable of 500k, so are the 5cyl diesels but some use 1.6 and 2.0 Peugeot engines which are best avoided for reasons above.
Plus regarding the strict £6k budget. Are you spending cash money you have or borrowing? There are some great low rate loan deals available from banks, particularly the Supermarkets from as low as 3.4% APR which could let you borrow more for similar monthly payments. Better spending a bit more up front than spending thousands over the next couple of years fixing it non-stop.
Really if you want a good big luxury 7 seater like this you need more money to do it without landing a big old white elephant on your drive. The petrol options will be cheaper and less troublesome but they're rare in big wagons like this.
Edited by SLO76 on 15/09/2016 at 20:54
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Thanks both. I do need 7 seats or else there are some great cars I could go for; Hyundai Santa Fe, Honda CRV to name just two.
I will have a look at the Volvo v70; I like Volvos but they can be high on tax and v thirsty!
I'm short so I like the idea of a higher driving position and I do like the 5008 console!
I've looked for a petrol over the last few days but they are rare with any good spec I've found.
I'm looking for 7 individual seats as 3 will have car seats on and in a 5 seater and even some 7 sweaters, the middle seat is only large enough for a child when there is a car seat fitted either side. We find this with my husbands Volvo v50 for example.
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Ever looked a Honda FR-V? 6 seats, 3 in the front, 3 in the back. It's slightly wider than most hatchbacks but shorter and easier to park than a normal people carrier like the 5008.
They're well made, comfortable, desirable so hold their money and nigh on bombproof in petrol form and above average in the 2.2 diesel which hasn't got a troublesome particulate filter to worry about or a timing belt to snap or need periodic changing unlike the Peugeot.
Even the petrol will be reasonable on fuel and none are exactly gutless, the 2.2 diesel goes like stink to be honest and will easily top 50mpg.
Not going to be a bargain but you can get them with leather and plenty of toys and it'll be easy to sell on again when you get fed up but people do tend to hang on to them with longterm ownership more the norm than most cars.
Auto Trader #DrivenByMe
www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20160816683...5
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Spotted this also... Loses a lot of the gadgets and less power but with 17,000 miles it's barely run in and has everything you really need. A vastly better choice than a high mileage complex top of the range model that'll cost you a fortune in repairs. Auto Trader #DrivenByMe
www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20160906747...2
Edited by SLO76 on 16/09/2016 at 16:23
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I read posts fairly frequently and post very occasionally. I do have a habit of being to the point, but don't take pleasure in annoying people and so restrain my comments. Having said that...
This must be one of the most extraordinary posts I have read in a long time. I have a trade card for BCA and attend the auctions fairly regularly so know something about the car business. There is absolutely no way I as a trade buyer would even look at a 5008 with 124k for a start, but a retail of 6k takes my breath away. This car is totally unsuitable for the mileage suggested and just begs turbo, clutch, DMF problems as well as the mass of minor electrical problems French cars throw up together with the wear issues of bushes, bearings etc. It is a disaster waiting to happen for a buyer who seems to value minor trim - rear seat DVDs? do me a favour - and extras over basic functionality. This buyer is a retailers dream, but really - don't even think about buying this,
As a previous poster said French, diesel, long service intervals, 124k etc is a nightmare waiting to happen. Cars like this can be very reliable, and maybe this one will be, but need regular maintenance and somebody handy enough to deal with all the minor issues arising. A client of mine has a Picasso diesel of great age and mileage of 150k+ that has served him well, but he is very happy to get his hands dirty and has enough knowledge to sort out the problems that arise.
There is a contradiction in that the original poster says that she likes to buy top end, high spec vehicles but with a budget of 9k. Inevitably there will be a need for compromise against basic requirements. To even think about rear seat DVDs is superficial against basic reliability and functionality. Personally I would be thinking Japanese, Toyota or Honda, at that price level and assuming seven seats then possibly Toyota Verso petrol and for a relatively unaware buyer then paying the main dealer premium with a years quality warranty seems sensible to me on the basis of the limited information provided. A subsidiary thought - why the rush?
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There is a contradiction in that the original poster says that she likes to buy top end, high spec vehicles but with a budget of 9k. Inevitably there will be a need for compromise against basic requirements. To even think about rear seat DVDs is superficial against basic reliability and functionality.
A subsidiary thought - why the rush?
The compromise I was considering was the high mileage which is why I was asking for advice. I've never bought a high miler and I won't be now thanks to everyone's advice on HJ.
The DVDs were in the vehicle I was considering, it wasn't a requirement, (although MGspannerman may never have suffered a family journey with grizzly toddlers, hence the dismissal of such periphery as superficial).
A budget of £9K for a second vehicle is quite decent imo, certainly enough for a car to suit my requirements for its use. Yes that includes leather; (more practical with kids) and I'm not apologising for wanting a lot of car for my money, why should I?
You're correct that I have no mechanical knowledge but I do believe a lot of car buying is down to luck; anyone can purchase a lemon or a gem and I've known very experienced buyers land themselves with a money pit and a friend who only chooses cars by price and colour; (yes really), has been lucky on nearly every occasion.
I have learnt from HJ that service history is more important than miles but also that after 100K or so the car is best left to a mechanical expert.
And I'm not in any rush, I was just travelling to see the high miler the day after my post, as I'm a busy person who has limited opportunities to view vehicles.
Thanks for all the help on here, I will get there in the end!
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Good luck... The fun's in the search anyway.
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Yes it certainly is.
Lots of posters saying about the soft 1.6 HDi engine and that the 2L HDi is better. Also warnings about the 1.6 EGC Auto.
Any advice about the 2L diesel Auto please?
Yeh yeh I know petrol would be preferable but....
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Well at least you avoid any dual mass flywheel issues with the auto as they don't have one. However Peugeot auto boxes are as soft as cheese and not something I'd recommend especially the jerky and troublesome EGC automated manual boxes in many of them.
The 2.0 diesel uses a traditional torque converter auto which is better but saps performance and economy and is still unlikely to reach much beyond 80k if you're lucky. These are even more likely to be a problem than the manual cars.
Again, keep it simple. If you must have a 5008 buy a petrol with a manual box or spend more and buy a later 2.0 diesel manual with low mileage and keep it fully serviced at main dealer or a Peugeot specialist that knows all the issues that come up on these cars.
Edited by SLO76 on 18/09/2016 at 21:25
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Hmm ok so the vehicle I was looking at, 2L auto, is at Moto Hub, formerly Keighley Trade Centre...horrendous reviews so yet another no-no methinks ??
Back to the damn drawing board....
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Wee local garage I use knows Peugeot diesels inside out, being popular with the local cabbies there's always at least one of them in bits in the workshop and they would tell you to avoid any modern Peugeot.
They used to make the best diesels of the lot, from the old 2.3D Ford Sierra and 2.5 Transit to the 8v 2.0 HDI that used to be in the 306/406/E7, they were all capable of massive mileages with little trouble but later stuff has been developed on a shoestring thanks to PSA's near bankruptcy.
I'd advise that rethink.
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Out of curiosity, did you look at the 17,000 mile 5008 I posted a link to? The is essentially the same car with fewer gadgets and less performance but should be reliable enough. A vastly better bet than a high mileage high spec car. I take it the toys are hugely important?
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Out of curiosity, did you look at the 17,000 mile 5008 I posted a link to? The is essentially the same car with fewer gadgets and less performance but should be reliable enough. A vastly better bet than a high mileage high spec car. I take it the toys are hugely important?
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Technical glitch oops!
Yes I'm now considering models such as that one with low mileage. Many thanks.
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weve got it in our company. i really reccommend it! good choice!!
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