You are a cheeky boy Bathtub..:-) well knocking a almost full 5 litre pack of Millers fully synthetic gear oil off the top shelf in the garage/tip, which forced the extra wide top off and contents everywhere should do for a start....it's never the cheapo stuff that goes flying, the air turned a funny shade of blue.

Don't worry, i've got a auto transmssion plus both diffs plus transfer box oil changes to do on the old Landcruiser when the weather picks up, plus rustproofing, plus annual sort out on the Scooby, so every chance i'll be smothering meself in various grades of the very best dino skin care money can buy and i won't rust, eat your heart out Olay.

Just out of interest, i'm getting the cambelt changed on Monday on the old girl, fixed price from Toyota dealer far lower than an indy and not much more than i could buy a decent quality camkit for, free courtesy car for the day too.

Edited by gordonbennet on 13/02/2015 at 22:15

I found Toyota's own servicing very competitive when i had the Hilux, and this same dealer, though now under different ownership, more than happy for me to bring in my bulk bought oil which saved me a lot of money.

How much do you need, thats a thorny one.

I really went to town on the Subaru Outback we picked up last year (had it LPG converted before treating so it's got to last as long as possible), Used Hydrate 80 as a rust converter followed by painting over the H80 and the worse subframe sections with Epoxy Mastic before using the underbody waxes.

I used S50 as you rightly say on the inside of cavities and UB as a final underbody coating....UB hopefully able to withstand abrasion, we'll see how well it's stood up when i get underneath in the spring.

I'm going by memory here, and i've only used the aerosols so can't comment on how free flowing the bulk would be, i think i used around 4 to 6 of each sort but that was going inside the sills/wheelarches/wings/doors/tailgate etc as well as through the insides of the chassis/subfame members.

The aerosol extension probes make the job a pleasure rather than a chore, though obviously where access and visibility are onside just to put the standard nozzle on and spray as you would paint.

Obviously a campervan is a bigger project, does the outside of the chassis need treating too or have you kept that painted so it can be pressure washed more aggressively after winter?

Just for comparison purposes, getting a large 4x4 or small/medium campervan professionally rustproofed will cost upwards of £400*, so i reckon to spend half the pro cost on good products (and do a better job due to being able to treat and paint obvious rust before using the waxes? i don't know, maybe yes maybe no), i expect to spend £200 on treating the Landcruiser this year though still have some product left over from doing the Scooby.

*that's a Waxoyl job, if you require Dinitrol or other products the price goes up.

All i can say is that i would not put myself through the hell of waxoyling a car again, but using the products we're talking about does make the job a lot more bearable if not quite a pleasure, though pre preparation, cleaning well and removing the heaviest rust is key.

Good point Jc2, a simple email to BH would answer queries about application/dilution and what to use if the 5 litre bulk pack is considered, probably easier/safer for sending home too, (NZ?), than aerosols.

BH helpful and courteous with enquiries, i asked them a question about something and got a prompt friendly reply.