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Mileage is only about 6,700. Fiesta Jan 1995,1.3 Equipe and I was told it is fuel injected. Inherited it from my mother who only drove to town and back. It was serviced once a year, regardless. Have replaced battery because it had run flat so often. Was standing outside for most of last year and only run around occasionally to keep it going. Nearly ran out of petrol when I collected it. Took it into garage to replace battery and refuel and that's when it started. Maybe problem is rust or dirt in petrol tank but it is fine starting from cold. Doesn't cut out at speed. Does seem sluggish but I am used to driving a 1.8 Vectra so I expected it to be less powerful. Any ideas, please?
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As this is only happening when hot it sounds like the lambda sensor, there are a few threads on this, if you do a search on lambda sensors i think you'll find others that have had the same symptom. Part of the mot is to check the sensor (emissions test) Try and find a friendly garage to check it for you.
Hope this is of some help.
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Hi Ban,
Firtsly, lets try and clear up something about Lambda Sensors nad exhaust emissions. The emission test as carried out at MOT time includes the computation of what is called the "Lambda reading". This is a number close to 1.0 and represents the closeness of the overall emissions to theoretical perfect air/fuel ratio. It is calculated by the machine from the various gas readings sampled. The engine management system controls the fuel mixture and ignition timing based upon information from various engine sensors, one of which is the OXYGEN Sensor in the exhaust downpipe. Unfortunately some bright spark somewhere back in time decided to start calling this a LAMBDA Sensor. The sensor itself is not checked as part of the MOT, only the emissions at the tailpipe. Incorrect Lambda level at the tailpipe does NOT necessarily mean the Oxygen Sensor is at fault, it could be any number of management or mechanical faults causing poor combustion. If, however, the Oxygen Sensor IS faulty, it is unlikely the Lambda reading will be satisfactory.
Now, to your problem ! When you say it peters out and is hard to resart hot, do you mean after just a few moments running from cold, or after a few miles ? Oxygen Sensor faults can certainly cause stalling, but rarely prevent re-starting. It is more likely that the system is over-fuelling the engine for some reason (possibly a faulty Coolant Temp Sensor or faulty MAP Sensor). If it only runs for a few seconds it could be a blocked exhaust or Catalytic Converter.
HTH, Adam
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It doesn't happen straight away but after some time, I would say at least half an hour. I took it into the local garage and they are supposed to have checked the various sensors but they could not replicate the problem, so have not checked them when it is happening. One time I managed to get it to restart and drove round the car park a couple of times and then it just died again - as if it had run out of petrol. Then it would not restart.
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If the problem is 'over-fuelling' due to faulty sensors, would this show up when the sensors are tested, even if it is not happening at the time? The trouble is, they can't replicate it. The sensors don't seem to be showing any faults when they test the car.
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RAC man thought it might be a blocked exhaust due to catalytic convertor breaking up but my garage say it isn't that.
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Thanks. It has just passed it's MOT but I can go back and ask about the Lambda Sensor (never heard of it).
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Certainly could be a BROKEN cat. We have had instances where part of the monolith breaks away and the loose bit can sit in the exit from the catalyser temporarily blocking it. Symptom will be difficult/impossible to start one minute then as the 'plug' shifts slightly will allow it to start as was the Escort I dealt with recently. Finally the broken bit lodged tight and that was that.
Andrew
Happiness is a T70 at full chat!
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i bought a 94 fiesta 2 years ago with an amazingly low mileage which ran perfect for about 2 months then did this exact thing.
no-one could ever explain what was causing it but it appeared to be a combination of over-fueling and a faulty alternator.
once the alternator was replaced it seemed to run fine as long as i keep her in 2nd when i get to the place where she used to cut out.
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Are you saying it still happens, even with the new alternator? This car has only done 6,700 miles and I find it hard to believe it would need a new alternator - although it has only done short journeys, so could that be a cause?
How did you find out it was that?
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My son has a 1.1 of similar vintage but 50k miles.
It has done so few miles it is likely that
1. it is choked up with carbon and needs a decoke (short runs)
2. the various electronic sensors are covered in carbon
3. the crankcase breathers are clogged up
4. the plugs are fouled
5. the exhaust is rusted internally and parts have broken up (VERY likely as condensation from short journeys)
6. the fuel filter is blocked with rust from the tank (water from condensation) - easy replace it.
7. the tappets have never been adjusted and black sludge has jammed several/ or valves are sticking.
8. not run in properly (ever) and piston rings jamming with carbon build up
I would recommend:
fresh oil/filter/fuel filter/air filter/plugs
clean out breathers
check alternator belt (possibly worn out due to age)
and then warm it up idling. If it then stops the problem is likely to be fueling.
If ok then drive it hard in lower gears - 3-4,ooo rpm for at least 30mins.
It needs an Italian tuneup from the sound of things
madf
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I had a similar fault on a Fiesta. Eventually discovered a leaf in the petrol tank!
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How did you discover this?
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Although it has done few miles, it has been serviced every January. The last service was January 2002 but has only done 250 miles since then.
Would any of the things you suggest only cause a problem when hot? If so, which ones, please? I would have thought that things like the plugs being fouled, needing a new alternator, etc, would cause a problem all the time. This is definitely only when hot. Can you help narrow it down a bit further. Thanks.
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Very difficult to diagnose these problems remotely but I need you to describe what happens when it is hot and you are driving. Does it just stop, cut out completely, slowly deteriorate, sluggish, make noises, hissing, popping, back firing, splutter. What. ??
Having said all that a car that has done 250 miles in a year will have considerable Lacquer deposits from the unleaded fuel. Run a four times dosage of injection cleaner Redex for example, Yes I know there are better ones in the trade but he doesn’t have access to them, in a couple of gallons of fresh fuel. Come back with your description. Regards Peter
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Ok, this is what happened. My mother owned the car and averaged about 800 miles p.a, mainly on short journeys. Last year she was ill and the car stood on her drive for most of the year, hence the low mileage. As far as I know, she never had this problem but she has since died, so I can?t ask her. It was serviced annually. It has just passed the MOT test.
The battery had run flat (again) and I had to charge it up before driving the 56 miles to my house. I discovered there was only just enough petrol to get me home but I did not want to stop to refuel, in case I could not start it (due to the poor state of the battery ). I just managed to get to my local garage but the fuel gauge was at the bottom of the red. I immediately had the battery replaced and filled up with petrol. As I drove away from the garage, the engine died. No noise, no splutter ? just faded away, as if the fuel was not getting through. I restarted it and drove about 5 yards and it died again. This continued for about 4 times, until it would not restart. I thought that maybe it was flooded (although I could not smell petrol). I waited a few minutes and tried again. It started and I managed to drive the 2 miles home.
My son is learning to drive on it and we found the same thing happened on about 3 occasions but only when warmed up. I cannot say if he stalled it but I don?t think so. It just died at junctions (always at very low speed) and would not restart. Sometimes it is a slow deterioration. When we try to accelerate, it?s as if no fuel is getting through. Sometimes it will start after about 4 tries. On one occasion, I managed to get it going and drove round the empty car park about 3 times and then it slowly deteriorated and died again. This time we could not get it going and I called the RAC. We had to wait so long that I knew it would start when he arrived because it was cold. He suggested a disintegrating catalytic convertor blocking the exhaust system and I had this checked out. The garage said it is ok and also tested the sensors - but since they could not replicate the problem, I am not sure if this proved anything. It always starts fine when cold.
We have also found that the car seems sluggish, especially when cold but I am not sure what it is supposed to be like as I have a 1.8 Vectra. My son?s driving school car is a Corsa - engine size under 1000 cc ? but he says it is much nippier than the 1.3 Fiesta.
I am desperate to get this sorted, as I cannot pass the car on to my son in this condition. Thank you so much for your help.
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Hi
Iam a Ford Brochure collector and i happen to have the brochure with you're exact car on it
The performance specs are as follows
1.3 HCS CFI Catalyst
4 Cylinder 4 inline, Electronic Single point Central Fuel Injection
Electronic Breakerless ignition
Max power 44Kw (60BHP) at 5000rpm
Max Torque 101nm at 2500rpm
The fuel figures are as follows
Urban 35.3
56 mph constant 56.5
75 Constant 42.2
the max speed is 95Mph
0-60 is 14.2 sec
30-50 in 4th gear is 9.5secs
The 1 litre corsa is as follows in less detail (i promise)
973 cc
58 BHP at 5600RPM
85 NM Torque at 3800RPM
0-60mph 16 seconds
30-50 10.5 secs
You're Fiesta has more power and torque than that corsa you definitly have a problem somewhere with its induction system or maybe the cat is partialy blocked
the battery fault is that you have a leaking earth somewhere or a short circuit
Hope this helps sorry its long winded i just wanted to show you you;re cars specs over that corsa
J Stephenson
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why is every1 saying that the cat is causing this???? cat causes petrol consumption to sour, changes sound of exhaust system, causes loss of power and very very sluggish movement. a blocked cat causes engine to over pressure and shouldn't die after certain mileage.
have the sensors looked at particularly crank and temp sensors. these are common on modern cars and often cause similar problems. when your car gets hot it tells the ecu to give less fuel as it is operating at a more efficient level and reduce fuel. basically it aids in cold starting by giving more juice. if it doesn't work it keeps on getting a lot of fuel and this then becomes an over fuelling problem. that guy adams probably the only qualiied person on this forum ho knows what he is saying or doing.
And BAN go to a special diagnostic garage and they should be able to test it for sensor problems throught ecu fault logs and sensor simulation. very few garages out there actually know they are doing in this field, they all think they know it but few have the knowledge, experience or equipment.
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If it was a blocked exhaust when you try and restart the car it would fire up for a couple of second then die, start die, start die. Normally a blocked exhaust reduces the rates ability to rev so as you speed up the power just winds down so I do not think it is there. Now assuming the O2 sensor is alive, ie. It passed it’s MOT then it is not the open loop mode kicking in so what are we left with. Fuel pump possible but not probable, ignition sensor and ignition amplifier is where I would go, always start cold, yep fails when hot but at random, yep, fault disappears with cooling and never does it at the garage Yep. Right simple test get an old spark plug and carry it with you in the car. Next time it stops jump out, pull an HT lead off, fit the plug resting it on some metal somewhere and crank it over, is there a healthy spark ??? Practice this when there is no fault. You do not need a plug if you have a bit of wire you can push up the plug cap. Use a bit of copper wire from a length of twin and earth cable or something, the spark should jump at least a cm. No not put yourself in the position where you get a shock because you will hit your head on the bonnet catch in your involuntary attempt to get away from the nasty thing that just bit you. !!! I can hear all you guys laughing now and that’s because you, or you’ve seen your mate do it right.
Now if there is not spark then that’s the problem. Last one I did was a Rover Metro and it was the induction coil in the Distributor ( replaceable item ) prior to that faulty Escort Ignition amplifier prior to that Volvo TDC sensor ( Spark timing derived from Fly wheel teeth and TDC pulse. ) prior to that Polo faulty coil, coil getting quite hot due to shorted turns in the primary windings. Some ignition amplifiers are bolted to some metalwork to keep then cool and I have come across these where corrosion has got between the two surfaces thus reducing the cooling and that was the cause of the not right when hot problem. Regards Peter
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James_60.Thank you for taking the time to type out all those details. The garage said the cat and exhaust system are not blocked. I assumed the flat battery was purely due to the fact that the car was used so little. Doesn't that always happen?
Also, thanks to everyone who is trying to help. The garage said they had put it on a computer and tested the sensors but would they show a fault if it was not happening at the time? I don't have any confidence in them. I spoke to a Ford dealer and they wanted to do the same and charge me loads whether they found the fault or not. I don't know whether to do that. As Rising Star says, maybe I should take it to a specialist.
Peter D: It does start and die, start and die but my garage said the exhaust is not blocked. Do you think they are wrong?
Brenda.
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No I do not think the Cat is blocked. Does it rev and sound normal ???
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a friend had a similar thing ,turned out there was a duster flapping about in the air intake.it managed to get sucked right inside the tube before the air filter.(this was a rover)took weeks of tinkering to find it tho....my guess is itll be something stupid.my money is on rust in the fuel system so
mewhere.do modern cars have a breather in the fuel tank.you could try running it till it starts acting up then try undoing the filler cap.just a thought....bunny
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Peter D : Yes it does - until it plays up that is.
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Do the Spark test and come back soon. Regards Peter
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