Anyone about to do this? There's quite a lot of information out there but none is complete and some just wrong, e.g. the Haynes manual. I'm now about to put mine back, having had the leaking rack overhauled.

Mine has power steering and I cannot see how you can get the rack out without dropping the subframe a few inches. This is relatively easy with a couple of jacks ( 6 bolts plus the clamp to the bottom of the engine) because the engine hangs from the top rather than sits on the subframe. This does entail undoing the anti-roll bar links which can be absolute pigs. The Peugeot one-use locking nuts seem to be to very fine tolerance limits, so a little rust on the top of the stud makes it impossible to get the nut off the stud and the T27 socket in the top of the stud easily rounds out. Power wire brushing doesn't work. Run a die (M10 x 1.25 in my case), squeezed right in, backwards up the thread to clear it of rust and NEVER force the nut against the Torx socket. If it still won't come off, heat the nut with a blow torch or oxy-acetylene if you have it. In extremis, you will have to cut the nut off without damaging the stud. The studs are not tapered, so as soon as the nut is loosened, the stud turns hence the T27 sockets.

You might also need to release the offside lower suspension arm from the Mcpherson strut. To do this, compress the spring somewhat because otherwise it forces the arm right down and the articulation of the lower ball joint is not enough to allow it to part company from the arm - whether you undo the three bolts, or the single clamp bolt. Both of these can be pigs because of restricted access to the tops of the bolts without taking out the drive shaft; or the single clamp will need opening out with a small cold chisel plus lots of rust releaser e.g. Plus Gas.

The hydraulic connections on the pinion box can be undone using short spanners but do use proper banjo spanners of exactly the right size - I think they are 11/16 AF rather than 17mm but check yourself. Otherwise you will round off the nuts and have to cut the pipe as I did in one case. The plastic coating of the bundy tube seems to expand within the banjo nuts over time so you have to wind them all the way out.

The steering column connection to the pinion shaft is a U-shaped clamp with a pinch bolt which wraps around two flats on the pinion shaft. These flats seem to be tapered, so the clamp needs to be levered off sideways rather than slid up the length of the shaft. The fit is tight. To get mine back on, I used an M8 bolt with 2 nuts to open the clamp as best I could, and a 3" G cramp with the swivel head missing to wind the clamp back on to the shaft. There is a cut-out for the pinch bolt so the clamp can fit only in the correct position.

As the army says, Reassemble in the reverse order. Good luck.