What max millage I should looking for when looking used car with automatic gearbox?

I wouldn't really say there is a max miles, it isn't that simple.

A low miles car could easily be a worse purchase than a high miles one because most wear and tear on an engine happen while warming up and on short, stop start driving. A car which has spent the hours pounding motorways at the optimum rpm is going to have lead a much easier life.

The CR-V is a very reliable car, but then the Suzuki should be too. Not sure how much difference there would be in servicing costs, but the economy difference based on the real mpg figures on this website would work out around £8 per week (if doing 5k miles).

What kind of automatic gearbox is in the SX4- S-Cross 1.6 SZ-T ?

First gen SX4 used a 4 speed T/C auto, second gen (when S-Cross was added) uses a CVT, and the facelifted (2016 on) cars use a 6 speed T/C auto.

I have found now that the new petrol engines have a DCT NOT a T/C auto, so feel consfused?

"If you need an automatic, then the DCT gearbox is worth a look. While it's a bit jerky at low speeds, it shifts through the gears quickly and seamlessly when you're on the open road."

www.carbuyer.co.uk/suzuki/sx4/sx4-s-cross-suv/engi...s

I'd be wary of buying secondhand cars with DCTs, except perhaps those from Hyundai/KIA, where they've generally been proven to be more reliable. Others from (say) BMW and Suzuki may well prove to be reliable as well, but perhaps haven't been around long enough or been sold in large enough numbers worldwide (yet) to know for certain.

Bear in mind that DCTs are essentially as a manual but with twin computer-controlled clutches. They can wear just as easily as a manual clutch, possibly even quicker when used in stop-start urban traffic when the driver isn't aware that the system is continually slipping the clutch when they keep edging forward at low speed.

With TC ('proper') and the better quality (Toyota/Lexus) CVT boxes, that sort of usage will not wear the system anywhere near as much, as long as it's well maintained. TC boxes have improved in terms of efficiency (and how much of performance penalty they have over manuals, DCTs and CVTs) and are nice and smooth. Aside from Toyotas/Lexuses, they are, of the three types, still the most long lived 'auto' boxes.

Speaking personally, I'd worry far less (even now) about mpg and more about meeting the spatial, performance, comfort and reliability/longevity needs, as they have a decent impact on both the ownership experience and can affect the lifetime running cost more than just fuel efficiency.

Similarly, make sure whoever you get the car maintained with is honest and knows what they are doing - that'll be far less stressful and a lot less draining on the wallet.

You may also find that - aside from mobility issues that may preclude some low-slung cars (you'd also be surprised that some SUVs aren't that easy to get in to / out of), but back problems (I've had them) often come from:

1. Cars with (significantly) offset steering wheels and/or pedals;

2. Poorly adjusted seats and steering wheel. My old Micra just needed the seat one notch forward and my back problems reduced significantly. WIth my current Mazda3, the addition of reach as well as rake on the steering collumn and lumbar adjustment on the seat improved things yet further that I've since had no further issues related to driving;

3. Some cars may not have fully adjustable seats and steering collumns. For men of average height, I'd suggest as a minimum they would need to come with steerting wheel reach adjustment as well as rake, plus the normal seat adjustments.

For people who are tall (over, say, 6ft 2in) or short (under 5ft 4in, so mainly women, i.e. this could affect your partner), the seat height adjustment may be a worthwhile function to look for.

Newer and/or more luxurious/high spec cars are more likely to have more of these ergonomic features. Either way, getting in a good long test drive over different road types you're likely to drive on and difference speeds (including that make good use of the gears) to gauge the performance, comfort (including ride quality) and handling is a must.

Also make sure the spatial requirements are met - I take my maximum load things - suitcase, holiday provisions box, golf trolley (box) and golf bag to see if they fit in the boot. Many modern boots are not anywhere near the actual size they blurb says as they include quite a bit of the area under the main boot floor which cannot be used to house large items.

I'd also make sure that - for people with back problems, that the ride quality on poorer surfaced roads and over speed humps is good enough. Many cars, including SUVs (especially later and higher trim level models) are shod on large alloy wheels and large diameter, low profile tyres.

This results in a much firmer ride than when shod on 'sensible' (standard, i.e. very common) sized wheels and higher profile tyres, plus they cost a LOT more to replace, are far more susceptible to damage and generally don't last as long. You could be shelling out an extra £250 - £300 extra for a new set of tyres (never mind the alloys) and in half to two-thirds the time.

The difference in grip levels in normal driving for non-performance cars is minimal for (otherwise identical) good quality tyres, plus higher profile tyres (especially all-season ones) are quieter, give a softer ride, are better in snow and protecting against aquaplaining.

Best of luck.

Hmmmmnm, Scotty Kilmer is very interesting but he's also somewhat variable! His experience is limited to USA, where Suzuki withdrew from the market due to lack of sales, hardly surprising given the American taste for huge capacity heavyweight gas guzzlers. Suzkis offering of small economical lightweight runabouts didn't find favour. In Europe and the rest of the world it's a different story, I would take his advice with a pinch of salt. He doesn't like Kia or Hyundai or in fact pretty much anything that's not a 20 year old Toyota! Even so I like watching him! But back to the here and now, I would still recommend the Vitara or Scross if you want a modern reliable crossover.

It's a very reliable gearbox but expensive to fix if it does go wrong & few automatic transmission specialists capable of working on it ( I think that dealers just tend to swap gearboxes out if required)

It can be reliable and worth to buy from new and took care of it (changing transmission oil as required), but when I buy used car, it can be a trap if it's failure soon or later after the purchase ??

Well, that can be true of any car. But as I mentioned you can keep a 2018 registered Verso in warranty up to 100k/2029 with annual dealer service.

Car with Classic TC transmission would be more safe option in that scenario ? Am I right ?

In that more 3rd parties can deal with a TC gearbox, yes.

The earlier model 1.3 is a very different car from the later & larger 1.8.

So you much more recommend the 1.8 rather than 1.3 ? How are they very different?

The 1.3 is based on the Yaris platform, the 1.8 Verso is based on the same platform as Avensis - much bigger.

Edited by Heidfirst on 19/08/2022 at 18:13