High turbo boost pressure fault on a CR-V?
I am touring on the continent with my 2005 CRV 2,2 CDTi (89,000 miles) towing a caravan, which I have done with this car since 2007 when I bought it. Cruising at around 50mph on the motorway the engine suddenly lost power, the engine management light came on and the car went into limp home mode - it would not rev over 2200 rpm.
It was towed to a garage (Bosch Service agent) who said that fault was registered was high turbo boost pressure, but say they have reset the fault code and cannot reproduce the problem, so no faulty parts found or replaced. Of course I'm very worried that it will happen again as I have over 1000 miles still planned on this trip.
Any suggestions? Is the car susceptible to turbo problems at this age? Does this car have a variable vane type turbo or wastegate for boost pressure control?
It was towed to a garage (Bosch Service agent) who said that fault was registered was high turbo boost pressure, but say they have reset the fault code and cannot reproduce the problem, so no faulty parts found or replaced. Of course I'm very worried that it will happen again as I have over 1000 miles still planned on this trip.
Any suggestions? Is the car susceptible to turbo problems at this age? Does this car have a variable vane type turbo or wastegate for boost pressure control?
Asked on 7 June 2013 by UncleRob
Answered by
Honest John
Might have overheated the turbo.
Vital when towing with a turbodiesel to idle the engine whenever you stop for at least 2 minutes before switching off. The reason is to keep engine oil circulating through the turbo bearings while the turbo impeller spools down.
Try to use only the best (highest lubricity) diesel.
If you can find any lubricity additive (might be labelled fuel system cleaner: Wynns is a good one) add that to the tank.
Can't be a DPF problem because the CDTI (thankfully) doesn't have one.
Vital when towing with a turbodiesel to idle the engine whenever you stop for at least 2 minutes before switching off. The reason is to keep engine oil circulating through the turbo bearings while the turbo impeller spools down.
Try to use only the best (highest lubricity) diesel.
If you can find any lubricity additive (might be labelled fuel system cleaner: Wynns is a good one) add that to the tank.
Can't be a DPF problem because the CDTI (thankfully) doesn't have one.
Looking for a garage you can trust? Honest John's Good Garage Guide has thousands of reader recommended garages, plus how-to guides and tips on servicing.
The Good Garage Guide
Our Fuel Cost Calculator shows you which will be the best choice for you.
Compare the running costs of petrol, diesel and electric cars to make the right choice for you.
Similar questions
My 2005 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi has done 147,000 miles. It had a previous issue where the glow plug light would flash and it would go into limp mode. I read various posts on here and it seemed that the arm...
What is the best petrol engine concerning resale value and longevity? I'm looking to get something used, about the size of the Skoda Yeti. I'll be driving long distances and a diesel seems the best option...
I've had the emissions fix done on my SEAT Leon and now the car is a dog. Can Volkswagen reinstate the old engine remap and remove the flow obstructer from the inlet? The car is doing 15 per cent less...
Related models
.jpg?width=115&height=75&rmode=crop)
Low-down pull from refined chain cam engines. Walk-through cabin on CVT auto models. Large boot can be increased by sliding the rear seats forward. Lasting very well.
.jpg)
