I'm laying it up for the winter in the garage. Is there anything I can coat the discs with to stop them rusting?
I remember many years ago I bought a carcoon for the bike. It never worked by the way - corrosion and mould everythwere. But anyway, with it came an aerosol of rust prevention stuff, and on the label it said can be used on brake discs without affecting anything when it came to driving it again. Anyone know what it was, or what I can use instead?
|
when you buy new discs the first thing you should do after making sure they are the same as the old ones is to remove the protective oily coating from them with some thinners on a rag
it therefore follows that you could recoat them prior to parking up
|
|
|
My only suggestion is to remove the pads, lubricate the pistons and push them fully home.
Then you could grease the discs and clean them off with proper brake cleaner when you want the vehicle again, it's going to mean a couple of hours work if you need the car unexpectedly during the winter at the most horrible time to do that job too.
Some may think this a lot of trouble but as you know changing those discs isn't easy...as an aside the mk 6 Hilux discs slide on just like a normal car from outside needing only the usual removal of the caliper, hopefully later (100 and 200) Amazons have gone the same way.
EDIT...i wonder if you could give the discs a light coat of red oxide/primer spray paint...that wouldn't hurt the pads i would have thought when you start using it again.
Edited by gordonbennet on 07/11/2009 at 16:47
|
EDIT...i wonder if you could give the discs a light coat of red oxide/primer spray paint...that wouldn't hurt the pads i would have thought when you start using it again.
>>>
<
>>>>>>>>> i would disagree with that as i could imagine it would build up on the pad and cause problems
|
>>>>>>>>> i would disagree with that as i could imagine it would build up on the pad and cause problems
>>
I wasn't sure either BB, though it could possibly be worth a punt if the OP didn't mind removing the pads and checking once the paint had worn off, he'd then know for another time.
I was only advocating a light dusting, not plastering on a 2 mm layer of Hammerite-:)
|
|
|
|
You're laying up an SUV for the winter? That's a new one here!
I used to have a car which I only used sporadically in the winter and it would go several months without being driven. As a result there was some surface corrosion of the brake discs. The first time it happened, I was concerned that I was going to need 4 new brake discs as the braking performance was clearly impaired and the noise on braking was terrible. I discovered though that after about 30km normal driving, the rust had been cleared and I never worried about it again when it periodically happened.
|
ACF 50. Any good motorcycle outlet. Apparently used in the aviation industry. Motorcyclist swear by it for storage or winter use of their bikes. Can be sprayed or wiped on.
You will have to pull/retract the pads though and clean off with solvent/brake cleaner before use.
Its thin stuff and should clean off easily, greas would be a pig to clean off.
|
|
|
I helped fit some MB discs that had a coating. It said it didn't need removing before driving.
Not a lot of help I'm afraid, but now you know there is some sort of material available.
|
Depends how long it'll be off the road I guess. 20 years or so ago I had a then new Golf GTi which I used in the UK. However, I worked abroad for most of the year. The car would regularly stand for three or four months at a time in the street outside my house with no attention at all. I would simply get in it and use it on my short visits home. I had it three years and it never came to any harm or ever let me down.
Later, my Westfield used to sit in an outbuilding under a sheet for weeks, sometimes months at a time. It too never seemed to mind.
If your car is to be in a garage and you are concerned about dampness, maybe some form of dehumidification device would help ? One of yon bags of crystals or an electronic dehumidifier perhaps ? I have heard it said that leaving a common or garden fan on at its lowest speed in a garage keeps things dryer. That might be rubbish of course.
I wouldn't worry about it myself.
|
|
|
|
I have a couple of cars that only do a few miles a year. The garage has an ordinary Ebac domestic dehumidifier permanently switched on although it only actually runs when it's damp enough. No rust at all on discs despite being within spitting distance of the sea. It would be worth plumbing in a drain though, emptying the container can be a chore. My garage is new and dry though, I doubt this would work with a very damp one.
|
Personally I would let them rust, it will soon be worn off once the car is back in use. Does you garage get damp? I used to store my classic in the garage over winter and my disks never rusted, but then I always left a dehumidifier running.
This article has some good tips for winter storage, it talks about classics but applies to any car:
www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/how-to-prot...l
|
The problem is they're already a little pitted, but I've managed to stop them getting any worse with regular use.
Maybe someone like Rocol do something that can be sprayed on, but will burn off with use and not affect the brake pads. It's only the second set of discs in 210K miles, so I've managed to preserve them pretty well.
|
I would ease the pads off the disc and coat the disc with kill ruect. You may have to remove the inner pad to gain acess to the surfave but put the pads back ready for use but leave them off the surface and put a note on your dash to remind you to operate the brake several times before use the car. Be careful of hydraulic header tank fluid level. Regards Peter
|
I think I may have the answer for you:
www.perdontrading.com/index.cfm?page=Products&prod...s
"ZincTape is designed to cover the surface of iron, steel aluminium and light metals in order to protect them from corrosion. This is achieved by pressing it on the surface that needs to be protected form corrosion. This method is commonly known as ?Coating with a zinc layer?.
The adhesive coat, which is applied only on one side of the zinc tape, consists of a matrix of adhesive and a percentage of zinc powder. Through the addition of zinc powder we have achieved the most important effect, which is making the adhesive itself electro conductive. This process allows the adhesive to create an electrical couple between the surface that needs to be protected and the ZincTape, so that the zinc can act as galvanic anode."
|
Just found this interesting webpage:
www.ausetute.com.au/corrosion.html
It explains why when steel rusts it forms pits, I had always wondered why steel and iron didn't rust evenly.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
