I posted on here a few months back about a suitable welder for me to buy but my needs have changed.
I have a 1979 MGB so will need a good welder!
I have the option of welding inside or outside so am looking for a suitable MIG welder.
Machine Mart have always served me well in the past and I quite fancy one of their gasless MIGS. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Stuart
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I got a gas bottle one and it's a bit of a pain as I don't use it that much now.
The small bottles seem to slowly empty themselves over time once their seal is popped - even when the regulator is removed. I've got a big pub bottle that is empty and haven't got round to getting it filled with CO2 as I haven't got a regulator suitable and around 25 quid is a bit much for the amount I use it.
I think if I was buying again I'd go for a gasless ones - the wire is much more expensive, but not if you don't use it much and have to buy a new small bottle each time you come to use it. If you're doing a lot of work on it, I'd contemplate hiring a proper size argoshield bottle, especially if you're attacking thin stuff.
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If you're doing any amount of welding, then I would second the suggestion of using argoshield. It's so much easier to obtain a neat and spatter free weld when using it - much better than CO_2
Also, getting a bigger, better welder than you strictly need will also be a good idea. One area where cheap migs suffer is in the quality of the wire feed mechanism. I've found 180 Amp single phase machines are OK for light / general workshop use.
It's just one of those things - many craft activities that need a degree of skill become so much easier when you are using a quality tool, and so much more difficult with a DIY offering. For example, I have a very rigid Facom hacksaw. It's almost impossible to cut off square with it, unlike more flimsy tools where the blade twists and flexes as soon as you push.
Number_Cruncher
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I've tried gasless and wasn't too impressed.The problem is,apart from the expense, the thickness of the wire,which makes it hard to get a neat weld. I've used a Clarke 150 TE for years,the only mod needed was to replace the cheapo plastic liner with a steel one.I use Argoshield,from BOC,£220 for a 5 year rental(X size)and about £40 for a refill.Pub gas can be used but weld quality suffers.If you are doing any serious welding the disposable bottles are useless,you can get through 2 or 3 in a day so not cheap either.All depends how much welding you are planning on really.
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Interesting thanks sierraman.
1979 MGB GT.
I think I'll be doing plenty of welding!!!!!
£220 bottle rental seems hugely expensive though
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i agree with all the points made the only downside is that its ackward to weld outside with a mig because the gas can get blown away
ive never heard anyone praise a gassles mig up so there must be something in this
for your old car oxy/aceteline would be much better as your car will need lots of cutting warming and bending of metals,ive never used a boc small oxy pack but would consider it if they are still available and you are using them away from your house (look on somewhere like ebay if you can go the oxy/aceteline route as i am sure you will find all the bagging on there,just remember to buy new flashbacks)
with regards gas rental i left boc years ago far too expensive i use energas £60 a year for the argoshield rental half full size and £25 for a bottle if i collect
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Thats another option bellboy, thank you.
Anyone live near Gloucester who can teach me how to weld neatly??!!!
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Oxy Acetelene is fine as a 'hot hammer' but unless very experienced is painful on thin metal. Plus it causes distortion as the heat travel during warming up causes problems.
MIG on the other hand is quick but requires the metal to be clean. Its also a pain to use at funny angles ie upside down.
To get decent welds its important to be positioned comfortably. Thats why to do the job properly some people roll the bodies over on special frames.
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Fullchat
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With regards welding thin metal with oxy its all down to experience ,the same can most definately be said with a mig and if i am welding something thin will use oxy rather than mig as you have to turn everything down to such a degree that its a pain to get a proper weld but with the oxy you can flow the thin stuff together very easily
As regards heat distortion the main thing to remember is that the heat will travel and will cause any corroded metal within its distance to also fall out,this is why when welding with gas you always end up with more welding than you envisaged but at least you found all the rot in one go
To be realistic an MG is a hard car to cut a virgins teeth on i would say
As regards learning the techniques well i learnt by watching someone else and a bit of night school ,the main thing is be protected be safe be prepared for setting your car on fire ive burnt a car out and nealy killed myself with the fumes putting it out the old type black fire extinguisher ran out of gas on the car and i had to resort to a handy hose pipe,it must have taken 5 minutes of gallons of water to put the black acrid seat materials out,this was a big lesson to learn always remove any seats or cover with a fire retardent blanket,once you have done this you are proper prepared next time and never ever weld a car and walk away,i have the 4 pm rule at work absolutely NO welding after the big hand gets there
oh and good luck you havent lived till tou get a molten bollie in your boots
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>>you havent lived till tou get a molten bollie in your boots
For me, the worst was getting one in my ear - ouch!!
On a bench, with nice clean metal, it's a doddle. Under a car with everything falling onto you in an awkward position, it's a nightmare.
If the MG needs that much welding, perhaps consider a heritage bodyshell?
Number_Cruncher
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Hi Bellboy.
All good advice, thanks. The 4 o'clock rule also applies to me in my work as a bathroom installer with regards to blowtorch work. I bought the MG to restore and whilst I consider it a good 2 previous owner example I am not going to shy away from doing whats needed. I certainly wouldn't consider a re-shell.
All of the interior will be removed prior to any welding and the appropriate precautions taken regarding fuel and brake lines.
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