Hi, can you please give me your opinion on a Rover 75 CDTI (diesel) should I buy one (great bargains around) or should I leave well alone. They use a BMW engine. And also it's chain driven not belt!!
Buy a CDT and get it chipped. That's all the difference between the CDT and the CDTi, and if you get it done by Super Chips or similar you go from 116HP to 160HP :)
We did exactly that and it now goes like the proverbial off a shovel. If you can, get one with traction control or you'll struggle to control the power. You can definitely feel the computer kicking in on ours when moving off in a hurry on slippery roads.
Roads aren't always crowded, and the police are not always about, especially during the early hours! Maybe people spend time on autobahns, plus more power = better overtaking power on country roads etc. You've never gone over 70 MPH in the UK AB?
Yes many times but I have not had have a car chipped to do it a Rover 75 's performance is more than adequate in standard trim.I drive a 1.8 mondeo at the moment and travel between Dresden and Leeds (and back)on a regular basis and even on derestricted sections of the autobahn this car is perfectly ok if you want a performance car buy one in the first place.
It's not all about hooligan performance though, is it Andy? It's in little things like how often you have to drop from third to second in town traffic, or how comfortably you can get back to cruising speed to get into a gap in the right-hand lane after being baulked by a lorry in the middle one. My experience is quite narrow but I've found that my 163hp Volvo scores better on both these criteria than a 115hp S-Max I've driven, which makes it a more relaxing place to be on a long journey - and why, if I end up buying an S-Max, it'll be the 140hp version. Indeed, you might argue that busy roads are where you most appreciate the extra oomph.
On the technical point, though, I'd probably agree that it's best to keep the car as the maker intended, so if you want the higher-performance version, that's what you should buy from the start.
As I understand it, the only difference between the 115 bhp version of the Rover 75 CDT and the 135 (?) bhp version was an "official" remap. It was in the BMW 3 Series that the same engine was offered with 163 or so bhp. In fact when the CDTi was introduced, didn't Rover dealers offer an official remap upgrade (which didn't affect the warranty) to those existing owners who wanted the more powerful version?
I'm interested in the comment above that it's the post-facelift cars for which it may prove difficult to find replacement body panels - is this simply because there were a lot more pre-facelift cars sold and therefore scrappies will have more in stock, or is there an outfit like X-Part able to supply these? I always liked the 75 and the ZT and wouldn't mind having one if I knew I could get parts without trouble.
Vroom, vroom - mmm, doughnuts ...
Body panels for later 75's and estates are almost non exitant I saw a late 45(on a 54) plate in my friends garage when the insurance assessor was there he wrote it off for what I considered to be a very small bump two wings a bonnet ,grill and cooler rad and a couple of side lights any rear end shunt on a 75 estate its a goner as far as the insurance company is concerned. Of course most of these will be repaired or bodged and end up on Ebay or some used car lot.
Because the 75 CDT is impossible to drive. In 1st gear, I was driving slowly up a very steep hill, dropped out of turbo range, and stalled and my foot flat to the floor. We had it chipped, went back to the same hill, and floored it in the same place, at the same speed. The difference was unbelievable, the front of the car lifted, the traction control kicked in, and I was clutching the steering wheel for dear life.
Likewise for general driving, you can pull out and be confident of sling-shotting past another car when overtaking, and it reduces the "stallability" when pulling off, and you can pootle along in 4th gear around town.
The chip upgrade is good value - Honest Ron also does one which is as good if not as powerful. The engine in the CDT and CDTi was the first fit of the BMW diesel used in the 320d -330d. It's detuned and doesn't have either the variable vane geometry turbo or twin turbos fitted to the BMW range. The 75 in deisel form is 2 tonne of car and thats heavy. The chip upgrade - if its a decent one will give more power over the whole driving range - this can make for more relaxed driving, better acceleration AND improved fuel economy.
Faults to watch for are:
1. Fuel pumps - there are 2 and the back one can fail - this puts pressure o the high pressure pump in the engine bay and this fails. To check the pumps - start the car and put your head down (needs less than a 1/4 tank of fuel) on the back seat (drivers side) you should hear a humming/slightly whistly sound. In the engine bay the pump sits behind the fuel pump - it should whistle too. I replaced both after a failure and its a relatively simple job - particularly the engine bay pump, which took about 20 minutes - this is the vital pump - which gets /keeps you going. Total cost of pumps EBay £160.
best advice is - keep the fuel level over a 1/4 tank - which stops the tank pump coming under pressure.
2. MAF meters - mine hasn't gone yet - a simple fix though and prices are £35-£120 on EBay
3. Front springs - were weak and should have been upgraded on a recall - if not £70=-100 for a pair
4. The firwall well at the back of the engine bay - can fill with water and take the ECU which lives there out. Clean it regularly - many on=wners take the drain fittings out all together
Living with it? It is a superb motorway muncher - stable, comfortablle quiet and refined. Climate control is better than BMWs and its smooth. Round twisties - the chassis will outperform the engine. Braking's good - it is a great car 160k miles not one rattle or trim failure and panel fit is spot on. Its a lot of car for not a lot of moneyand build quality is A1. It's also one of the easierst cars I've worked on.
Oh and if you like any bass in your hi-fi at all - you wont get any out of the standard harmony unit. Solutions are to get the dash insert MG fitting and put another head unit in or fit a bass unit - I did the latter - which cost £40 and it's been a huge improvement.
I'd recommend Event Tyres - I got 18k out of the fronts and they were still legal when I replaced them - a meanie prepared to live with the fact the handling was going off - or doing town driving may have pushed on to 20k.
I've done 50k+ in this motor and I'd recommend it to anyone,
If you re-chip a Rover 75 how much extra will the insurance be? Do the chippers even report it to their insurer? The potential power increase suggests heavy extra costs if declared! Plus re-chipping will cost £300. Maybe simpler just to buy a CDTi ... cheap as chips at 8-10 years old!
Old thread. Chipping can be OK to get a bit of extra spice out of a mildly set up engine, but some of the claims are a bit suspect.
In 1st gear, I was driving slowly up a very steep hill, dropped out of turbo range, and stalled and my foot flat to the floor. We had it chipped, went back to the same hill, and floored it in the same place, at the same speed. The difference was unbelievable, the front of the car lifted...
Turbos are feedback loops. They don't spool because the engine fuelling is restricted at very low speed to protect the DMF and clutch. It's better to let the engine stall than destroy an expensive component. Chipping promises the earth. It's easy to get more power but lets be clear about this; claims about 15% improved fuel economy are total rubbish, unless you were purposely driving in a unnecessarily low gears beforehand.
"As I understand it, the only difference between the 115 bhp version of the Rover 75 CDT and the 135 (?) bhp version was an "official" remap. "
you are quite correct, the difference was just a re-map, infact simpler than that, It was just a ECU reconfiguration done by creating a different ZCS code.It was just a number & letter change. Rover new how to milk it and charge big money for a certificate and door sticker etc but it was really simple.
BMW offers big diesels. Mercedes offers big diesels. Audi offers big diesels. All with better economy, lower C02s and therefore lower BIK tax for company drivers than equivalent petrol models. Now it's Jaguar's turn.