Am going to have a crack at replacing a CV boot tomorrow on my 1999 Passat TDi.
Anyone got any tips for dealing with the suspension, more specifically with regard to the balljoints?
All advice much appreciated.
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Assume you have a socket big enough to get the hub nut undone - and a breaker bar man enough to apply the necessary torque to loosen it (and more importantly - tighten it!)?
Ball joints come easily with a proper separate - for the sake of £10 don't improvise - and make sure you get the type that uses a bolt to separate the jaws, rather than the hammer in fork types that usually ruin the gaiter. Undo the nut and run it back so it's still on the thread, but the nyloc has let go, then use the separator - should be easy enough.
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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Alsolutely Richard and the socket and breaker bar will have to be a 3/4 drive you will shear a 1/2 off just undoing the nut, also obtain the correct Hex socket ( i.e. ONLY six sides) not dual Hex ( 12 sides) Trust me I know these things. Regards Peter
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Apparently not. I had no problem with the hub nuts on the Fiesta using a 1/2" drive socket, and the torque spec on these is higher than for the Passat.
Seeing as my torque wrench has the required capacity, and is a 1/2" drive, then I'm satisfied that 1/2" drive can handle the torque.
I will buy the better sort of balljoint separator, I already have the fork type and am not very confident with it!
I have a 3-foot breaker bar, and the correct (17mm) hex socket. Helpfully, the replacement hub bolts in the boot kit have regular socket heads rather than hex heads.
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I think you are supposed to use a new fastner on the front hub (they are M14 or M16) and the torque varies depending on the model (something like 150nm + 180 degrees). Its a lot for 1/2" drive, but probably do-able at a pinch. Check out the particular spec for your VIN number first though.
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Thanks for that mate. Haynes manual doesn't specify a new hub bolt, but a new one is included in the CV boot kit.
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If you had no problem with 1/2 drive.It must be of good quality tools..I have never had a problem with 1/2 inch drive..But use snap on tools..Three foot breaker still makes it difficult.lot of pressure to release these nuts..Would think on borderline of breaking something..
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Steve
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Forget it, it's too windy today.
It's only an hour's labour - it's going to the garage on Monday.
Bloke at the garage mentioned something about one-piece (not glue on!) gaiters that can be fitted without removing the driveshaft from the hub. Is this possible, or is he trying to defy the laws of physics as I suspect?
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Yes they do exist. Tried one on the old 405 and it lasted a year. Frankly, although it avoided undoing suspension and drive shaft nuts etc, it took nearly as long as at one point I had superglued myself to it! Takes a little planning, care, cleanliness, but they do work.
Instead of taking the shaft off the car and separating the joints to fit the boot, you can now get boots which are stretched over the CV. You still need to undo suspension and CV nut though
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GrahamF1 You mention you have the correct socket i.e. 17mm. that my friend id for the wheels bolts/nuts not the Hub Nut which will be at least 22mm. My son tried to undo his Metro hub nuts with my Britool 1/2 bar whish has now got a 15 or 20 degree twist in the 1/2 drive shoulder do your comment that you have the rights tools does not fill me with confidence. Some of these nuts require well over 200 ft lbs to crack then undone and a 1/2 drive is only good to about 150/180 tops. Regards Peter.
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Look mate, I've got the car right here on my drive. The hub bolt takes a 17mm hex bit - end of story. Note that I'm saying a 17mm HEX BIT, not a 17mm socket.
The new hub bolts (in the CV boot kits) are more like what you describe, a 20something mm socket bolt. Perfectly possible for the same bolt (in terms of it's shank) to have a different head.
My torque wrench has a capacity of up to 222 NM, and is 1/2" square drive. I've applied this torque (and then some) to 1/2" drive tools several times before - no problems. Smooth pressure at this sort of torque won't break a quality 1/2" drive component, but jumping on the bar to apply the force might. First rule - if you have to jump on the bar, get a longer bar.
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Seen a 10 foot long scaffolding pole fed through a 1" drive torque wrench in a forelorn attempt to torque down a Main Rotor Head 3 men were " Hanging off" attempting to get it down correctly .The torque wrench calibrated up to 1800lbin (150Lb Fooot)did not break however we managed to jump a thread on the Gearbox shaft.
Result another Main Rotor Head needed in addition to a Main Rotor Gearbox about circa £250,000 for the repair of both these items!
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Ah, I've just re-read your post and understand what you're getting at.
I know the difference between the hub bolt and the roadwheel bolts. The roadwheel bolts on this car take a 17mm SOCKET, and the hub bolt takes a 17mm HEX BIT.
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That makes more sense now. Thanks for that. Peter
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Yes this is a M14 1.5mil pitch shouldered bolt and should not be a problem to a half inch drive as the thead is not exposed to the elements and there fore should undo readily compared to the exposed external nut type I was thinking of. Regards Peter
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No one has answered the "re-joining" part of the question. Is that a problem - don't you just press the shank back into its taper hard enough to resist the modest turning torque of a loose nut, and then tighten to the specified torque?
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>>No one has answered the "re-joining" part of the question
I didnt as it is usualy easier to put back together than it is to strip down..Peter like me thought we was talking of nut type hub..rather than bolt....crossed threads I think
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Steve
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As closure to this thread - I've just coughed up for an hour's labour to get it done.
Just as well really, the guy said the suspension gave him some grief.
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