Hi I have a 95 1.8 SXI xantia 8v it needs new discs soon which i have contemplated doing myself but there is one problem from what i can see i have to take the caliper apart to remove the rear disc which in turn will mean bleeding it "but this is just a guess" can anyone tell me the procedure for replacing the discs does the car have to be set to highest suspension level as i wondered whether this would be wise due to the pressur in the pipes or does this not affect the braking system even thoug they are all run on the same hydraulic system, any help will be much appreciated.
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Don't have any info specific to the Xantia. FWIW the Haynes manual for the BX suggests that the caliper can be unbolted (pads removed) and suspended out of the way without interfering with the hydraulic connection. The discs can then be removed once their attachment screws are loosened off. althogh the park brake works on the front wheels it is suggested tha it be suplementd by chocks. No mention of any requirement to re set the ride hieght. although the brake compensator valve responds to suspension load surely the brake system will only operate in response to the pedal?
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I did the rear brakes on my Xantia TD last year - not a particuarly difficult job if you're aware of the few little things specific to Xantias. The main issue is the rear brakes on the Xantia don't do much work, and thus last ages and tend to rust up more than other cars.
I would advise you buy the following replacement parts along with the discs and pads:
2x pad retaining pins and nuts for same
2x metal plates that protect the pads.
2x bleed nipples
Tube of copper grease
www.brakesinternational.co.uk list a fitting kit consisting of the above for a couple of quid which would probably work out cheaper than obtaining the bits from Citroen.
The hydraulics don't really make any difference to the job, you will need to set the suspension on high but only to facilitate jacking the car up.
The job is basically remove the caliper pin nut, slide caliper pin out, remove pad protection plate, remove pads, undo caliper bolts, remove caliper (its split in 2 halves - be careful not to damage the small rubber seal around the fluid hole) and ensure you remove the back section of the caliper from the rear arm - it will be quite tight and may appear to be fixed to the arm but its not. Ensure that the rear arm and back of the caliper are scrupulously clean and free from corrosion as this can cause misalignment of the brake caliper. Next remove the disc - it will be well stuck. Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use plenty of copper grease on the pad backs and the caliper pins otherwise they will squeak annoyingly. Don't overtighten the caliper bolts as they will shear.
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To avoid splitting the caliper and having to bleed the brakes, remove the pin, take out the pads, then refit the pin and do the nut up. This should hold the caliper together once you take the retaining bolts out. Note that corrosion between the caliper and arm is very common, causing the caliper to twist, so make sure you clean all the corriosn off both and the caliper goes back square. Put a thin smear of copperslip on the back of the caliper to try and prevent the corrosion happening again.
I have to do this on my Xantia some time - but it also needs the brake pipes replacing - and that I am NOT looking forward too!
Note that if you do need to bleed the brakes, do it with the suspension on high, otherwise you don't get much (none at all under the right conditions!) pressure at the calipers.
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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I did this job a couple of weeks ago on my sister's Xantia. It's not difficult and you should be able to ignore Haynes' story about depressurising suspension etc - not required.
Remove the pads and replace the pin to hold the two halves of the caliper together. Undo the two bolts holding the caliper to the arm. Don't worry, the caliper won't 'burst' or anything and you won't need to bleed it afterwards.
Remove the single 'screw' holding on the disc (you can use a small socket on it.) The disc will remain tightly stuck to the hub!
Wallop the disc good and hard to remove it - use copious amounts of Plus gas or similar. It takes some persuasion but it will eventually pop off.
Now the important bit!!!! The rear of the calipers on Xantias corrode because they are in contact with the steel of the suspension arm. Usually a 'wodge' of corrosion builds up behind and twists the caliper round so that the edge of it eventually rubs on the disc. The answer is to stick an angle grinder round the back and level it off. You can gently unclip the caliper pipe from the arm and lift it aside enough to get the grinder in without disconnecting. When I put on the new disc initially it was binding on the caliper body!
Clean everything out really well - plenty of copper grease on moving surfaces AND between back of caliper and steel arm (to discourage further corrosion) Be sure and clean off the factory coating from the disc with some petrol or suchlike.
Worked a treat on sister's car!
Graeme
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