head bolts - help! rover 414 (1996) - sails north
having followed haynes to the word on a mission to replace the head gasket, ive come to the head bolts. im not being able to loosen them at all. im using a 3/8 torx-e socket with an 3\" extension. can anyone help???
head bolts - help! - solara
try using an extended bar for more leverage.
head bolts - help! - Mapmaker
wd40? or other easing oil?
head bolts - help! - RichardW
Jambo,

What car are you working on? Either the bolts are very tight, or they are rusted into the block. Either way you only really have 2 options: 1 - apply enough force to undo them or shear them off (use a longer bar - a scaffold tube slid over the breaker bar makes a good persuader - or get a big mate to swing on the spanner. 2 carefully grind the heads off the bolts so that you can lift the head off over the bolt, then you will able to apply heat / WD-40 to what's left in order to get them out.




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RichardW

Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
head bolts - help! - Dizzy {P}
I agree with Richard, you need to tell us what the car is!

If the bolts have been tightened by the angle-tightening process (as they most probably are, depending on what car we are talking about) they can be VERY tight. Sometimes it is as much as you can physically manage to tighten cylinder head bolts to the specified loading -- and it takes even more force to get them moving when trying to undo them again ("break-loose torque").

A 3/8" drive Torx socket looks quite fragile but will take a lot of torque before any damage is done, so long as the correct size (E number) is used and it is fully home on the bolt head. Likewise, Torx bolts are far stronger than they look.

I think Solara has the answer -- use an extension to get more leverage and apply a lot more force. I'm sure they will come undone, probably with a frightening "crack".
head bolts - help! - Dynamic Dave
I agree with Richard, you need to tell us what the
car is!


Sigh, I see jambo hasn't taken any notice of my "Tips On Posting To this Forum" message at the top of the list. I sometimes wonder why I bother.... mumble, whinge, etc.

DD.
head bolts - help! - Civic8
your best bet is use a 3 to 4 ft bar.ie don`t put too much strain on to start with use a push release method push harder at each push.normally works but dont go too mad taken gently should release bolts may take a while but would be less hasle.and so far I havent broken one.
head bolts - help! - Peter D
Now the trick here is to ensure you keep the torx square to the bolt. Use an extention with a hole thru it fo you can insert an extension bar so you can then use a cracking bar on top of that and use both hands, one pulling and one pushing. They are sometimes very tight and when the crack loose you will swear blind you\'ve bust it. I hope your Torx it top quailty !! Regards Peter
head bolts - help! - davemar
Having just done up the head bolts on my car, I can vouch how tight they need to be. I can't remember the initial torque required, but the following 300 degrees felt really hard towards the end. This was all done with a long breakers bar. So I can imagine undoing them to be a right muscle job.
head bolts - help! - sails north
thanks everyone for the ideas. sorry i forgot to mention the car is a rover 414 1996 model. using a longer extension(200mm) didnt work either so it gona have to be the heavies. can i use an impact wrench on this part of the engine?


{Car details added to subject header. DD}

head bolts - help! - solara
20cm is not very long (as extensions go!).
use a metre length scaffolding pipe.
head bolts - help! - Civic8
you dont stand a chance with an 8" needs to be around 3to4ft mark.they are tight for good reason
head bolts - help! - No Do$h
Hang on, isn't this the K-series engine? If so, don't those bolts run all the way down through the block?

I wouldn't fancy your chances of getting the remaining bolt length out if you shear the heads off. Don't start waving any scaffold poles around until you get a model-specific response (or a reassurance that I should stick to the Discussion Board as I don't know what I'm talking about)


No Dosh
mailto:Alan_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk
head bolts - help! - No Do$h
Some info on how not to tighten the bolts again....

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=4799

Can't find anything on actually getting them out (apart from an ominous reference to stripping expensive sounding bits in the above thread)
head bolts - help! - Dizzy {P}
That's very good advice from ND -- and it backs up the need for us to always be told the make and model of car that questions are about.

The Haynes manual should warn if there are any hazards specific to the K-series but they can't always be relied upon to get things right.

There must be some Yahoo forums for cars with the K-series engine. The Rover75/MGZT forum is one, but I'm fairly sure they've never discussed removing head bolts. One of the other forums might have, though.

head bolts - help! rover 414 (1996) - Civic8
I havent heard of a bolt shearing but others may have done.you didnt say what type of drive u are using ie 3/8 or 1/2 inch
some try doing work with a 3/8 drive which you dont stand a chance with on this type of bolt.if you are using 1/2 drive make sure the extension bar from torx is at least 12 inches/300mm from head for safety as well as anything else.the bar you use to connect to extension for removal of bolt should be about 3ft plus as they are very tight but they should if played with come off without serious problems.BUT do replace the bolts as they are not designed to be reused
head bolts - help! rover 414 (1996) - Dizzy {P}
mech1,

I can count on one hand the number of angle-tightening heads that I have been involved in removing, so I am not sure I should be querying what you say. However, I recall heads where the Torx screws are recessed and it is impossible to get at them with a 1/2" drive. I have used a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor with no problem at all, and the adaptor is a very cheap one from a local discount accessory store.

I don't understand why you say that the socket extension bar should be at least 300mm from the head. Do you mean to avoid injury to your hand? I find it best for the socket extension to be as short as possible. I think you have more control with a short extension and can apply more force. I agree that your hands need to be clear of the head in case the bolt turns suddenly or the tool slips, but 300mm above it?

Thirdly, I know that most 'stretch bolts' must never be re-used but I wonder if this applies to K-series bolts? If the stretch is applied over a very long length there might be no danger of the bolts having been taken beyond their elastic limit. I'm not saying that this *is* or *isn't* the case ... just wondering.
head bolts - help! rover 414 (1996) - solara
Jambo, are you having problems removing just one of the bolts or all of them?
head bolts - help! rover 414 (1996) - RichardW
When I undid the (stretch) head bolts on my BX TD I needed all of a 3ft bar and my not inconsiderable bulk to 'break' them. Citroen do not make it easy as there is no direct access to some of the head bolts so I had to use a 'wobble' bar to get in there. A 3/8" drive will take a lot of force before it breaks if it's a decent one. Tightening them up is a bit odd - it's hard work getting the angle turn on, and then you can feel them stretch - the bolt continues to turn, but doesn't need much more force - makes you think they're about to snap off / strip the thread!


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RichardW

Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
head bolts - help! rover 414 (1996) - John S
Dizzy

Stretch bolts by definition do go beyond the elastic limit, and normally, as you say, should not be reused. By taking the bolt into the plastic region of the load/extension curve they apply a controlled load to the head/block joint. Trying to reuse them takes them too far into the plastic region, and the load they apply will drop, possibly dramatically, depending upon their material proerties.

However, Dizzy, your comment may have been stirred by the same memory as I've just had. On the K series, which does have long stretch bolts down to the crankcase, didn't Dave Lacey (a Rover specialist) say here that these could be reused provided the stretch section had not gone beyond a certain length? It obviously needs some definite information and careful measurement, by micrometer or vernier as we're talking very small extensions. I'd suggest checking with a Rover dealer once the bolts are out.

Regards

John S
head bolts - help! rover 414 (1996) - sails north
its done! thanks again all. following the advice i bought a breaker bar and it didnt need much force from there on. the breaker bar was about 1 foot long. so i can assume from there that head bolts are even tighter on other models. once a full turn had been completed the bolts could be loosenned by hand - which makes me wonder if the bolts were as tight as they should have been, but thats another thread!
head bolts - help! rover 414 (1996) - Dizzy {P}
John,

My ancient memory is telling me that stretch bolts should never be taken into their plastic region. They are stretched into 'yield' which is situated in a narrow margin between the elastic and plastic phases. That's not to say that they will return to their original specification when undone; in fact I would be surprised if they do, having been taken to the very margin of plasticity.

My comments about the K-series possibly being different was based on the fact that more stretch can be obtained on long bolts than on short ones, therefore the K-series bolts *may* not need to be taken into yield and therefore *may* not need renewing every time. If that is indeed the case, then what DL says sounds very feasible.

When our diesel engine company introduced angle tightening many years ago, a closely defined yield point could be achieved only by adding Boron to the steel composition. This non-torque system overcame many problems, including the avoidance of different clamping loads depending on surface finishes and level of lubrication; also the need to re-torque after a period of running. I think it was a bigger step forward than was generally appreciated.
head bolts - help! rover 414 (1996) - John S
Dizzy

It's a fine point, and I'm sure you're right they don't go far beyond the elastic limit. If they did it would be hard to guarantee clamping load ad the load/ extension curve would be dropping rapidly. However, by definition, once they exceed yield and don't return to the original size then that is plastic deformation.

Regards

John S
head bolts - help! rover 414 (1996) - Civic8
cant comment on what you have done.I said 300mm to prevent any harm to you plus it would be nearer to your possible height ie the most pressure is applied at close to or near your height.bent over the engine and using force usually will not give max force.as far as I am aware stretch bolts should never be reused but then that is up to you.could mean replacement of head gasket and bolts thats without any further damage if you see what I mean.think you was lucky in releasing them though. wish all were the same?
head bolts - help! rover 414 (1996) - DL
Rover K Series head bolts are initially torqued to 25nM, then spun 180 degrees in turn and then another 180 degrees. Quite suprisingly, this doesn't feel that tight when doing this.

I've never had one of these bolts snap or shear or even refuse to undo - you do need a breaker bar to initially shift them. Really, a 1/2" rather or T Bar should shift them.

Now, from memory (I could confirm if required) the way of telling is a bolt is fit for service is to measure a section (fat, top section) of the bolt - if it is more than 91mm it is NOT fit for use.

A set of these bolts will cost you around £100 - I've yet to have to replace a set...
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