Have a 1999 2.0 DTI Ecotec Vectra which has a problem with its power output. the best way that i can describe it is a slight surging in the upper Turbo range. Most easily identified in 5th at about 65-70 :-) try and accelerate and the power comes and goes. not sudden or jerky, just a slight decline then increase in acceleration rate. This stays and pulses about every 3-5 seconds. when accelerating through the gears there is a hesitancy above 3500 rpm but it pulls well up to that point. It feels almost like Fuel starvation or a fuel supply problem, another hypothesis is a waste gate which is opening at too low a pressure point and then closing again.
Vauxhall dealer has done a diagnostic on it and identified the mass airflow sensor and turbo pressure switch needing replacement.
Any experience or ideas out there, would really like to sort it out without the dealer playing guessing games at my expense as i have read in other posts.
By the way, no warning lights or ecu fault codes have been recorded, the car has done 130k.
I also have power problems with my vectra engine, I have just got my hands on a vauxhall service cd rom it says that there is a problem with certain air flow meters, check the number on the side on your mass flow meter and post it on here. Any meter that starts with the number 183 or less is affected.
thanks for the response, now for the next question, Where is the MAS, What does it look like, will get a manual for the car tonight anyway as this is a new car to me (came with the problem but at a very, very good price)and i don't know the engine at all. Looking at the engine, i am wondering if it is the toilet roll tube sized unit in the air pipe at the rear left of the engine looking from the front. about 6 inches long. It appeared when the car came that there was no turbo pressure at all, starting with the obvious took a couple of plugs off and cleaned the contacts, got a the 2500 - 3500 range of turbo pressure but was difficult to know if it was not there as had only driven it about 5 miles home before doing this. The plug on the unit described was one of those.
One point - If the Vauxhall CD says there is a problem as you describe, shouldn't they be changing them as they are faulty and therefore unfit for the purpose. looking through certain discussions on here it seems to be a common problem.
By the way, where did the CD come from, how old is it and any chance of a C*&y for a consideration of course.
If you need a MAS, I can you post you a brand new one for £130.
Its a genuine part, I had to use one on my '97 2.0 Dti Vectra that developed similar simptoms. Wouldn't rev above 4000rpm is a good indication. Suddenly the turbo kicked into life and has been fine since!!!
I've just been looking at my copy of the VX TIS disc (bought from ebay!!), and it says that poor driving and hesitation could be caused by a "un-modified" fuel filter heater.(situated on top of the fuel filter housing)
Apparently the pre-modded one causes electrostatic dicharge into the electrical system as it reacts with the fuel inlet pipe to the filter, which causes it to hesitate. The modded one cures this.
Maybe you could ask the dealer to check it out and let us VectraBoys know the result.
Just to update, have removed the MAS and given it a clean in the prescribed manner (washed in Alcohol)No different. Sunday, while driving along the motorway the ECU light came on on the dash, went away as soon as i decelerated to come off the slip road was on for approx 20 - 30 secs, Tonight, came on again, at the same point on the motorway, on the same journey, so i kept driving up the motorway to try and keep it on.
On it stayed for a further 5 miles or so. So thinks i, great, fault code in the ecu log. On inspection i have a 16 pin diag socket under the trim cover in front of the handbrake. The problem is that the pinouts do not correspond with any of the diags i have found on the net. i am told to short pins 5 and 6 but only pins 3,4,5,7,8,12 and 16 have connectors on them the rest have no sockets to test I.E blank. 16 is 12v and the rest appear to be 0v. Anyone got any different info or can identify my system from this.
MAS Serial number was found as follows
091 05 3 8
f00c 262 930
Now, not too sure which is the serial number of the mas but 091 05 3 8 was also stamped on the outside of the MAS body as well as the side of it.
Thanks for the offer, i am trying to identify what part is actually to blame but if i can track it down to the MAS then i will gladly take you up on that, Where abouts are you.
Mine will happily rev up to the limiter in first and second, it is just not as lively past 3500, the turbo kicks in at 2500 or thereabouts and it seems out again or is less effective above 3500, this band seems to reduce with the higher gear / load on the engine.
Really want it to be a loose wire or something but am beginning to think that a new MAS may be the option
I'm in Romford, Essex. I'm quite happy to post it if need be though!
To be honest it doesn't sound like your MAS is faulty although i beleive it is the most common problem on these cars. When mine went the engine wouldn't rev above 4000rpm at all. Your power band sounds about right although my turbo kicks in a bit lower at about 1800rpm (didn't work at all with faulty MAS!!).
Your MAS S/N 091 05 3 8 does indicate a possible faulty one. As per Stevie070 above anything pre 183 indicating made in 2001 (you have 091 indicating made in 2000) may have a common fault. My new one is a 3XX indicating it was made in 2003.
Let us know how you get on.
Hi Carl, Played with the car a little this morning on the drive in, yes, i think the turbo may be starting to produce some effect at a little under 2k rpm it is just that it really seems to have taken off by 2.5k.
It will rev to the limiter in say first but struggles more and more the further up the gears you go (no i don't expect it to be hitting the limiter in 5th :-) ) and the power band just gets narrower with each change up the box. It is reliable and consistant with the gear it is in.
When i test drove the car, to be honest it felt like there was no turbo, bought it anyway as it came from a friend with the problem being known and was very very good value.
Interesting that you identify my MAS as 2000 as the car was built in 1999 indicating that it has already been changed once. Could this be a Y2K bug thing, how long is it since you heard that?
Vauxhall have diagnosed the car and have said MAS and boost pressure switch, but they also have changed over £400 worth of sensors so far including a brake light switch! which they said had a bad earth which could be affecting the ECU and they weren't really guessing were they!!!!!
Will keep digging, next thing i want to check is the waste gate opening / closing operation and timing.
Not resolved as yet, The guy i got the car from had already had a diagnostic check done at a vauxhall dealer. They diagnosed the boost pressure switch and MAS as faulty, i am a little unsure about the boost pressure switch but have not had chance to dig too much deeper witht the car. Anyway, it goes in on thursday for both items to be fitted, all for 200 quid so will definately report back.
Not too sure if it was you who came up with the serial numbers on the MAS but the car is a '99 and the sensor is Y2K so obviously has already been changed once, but i have since been told they only last 35k or so anyway.
Have just been talking to the guy who i got the car from and the EGR valve has been changed (full of gunk) plus various other vacuum solenoids / sensors. Along with, and get this, the cam belt. if i am right, these are chain drive engines. (not by a Vauxhall garage i hasten to add)
Will advise as soon as i know more on the changes taking place on Thursday.
Vectra 2.0 DTI power problems - resolved -
Well, have just driven 15 miles back from the Vauxhall dealership having had the Boost pressure switch and Mass Airflow Sensor replaced. Total cost inclusive of VAT was £204. Thats £81 for the MAS, £44 for the Boost Pressure switch and about £45 for fitting. All plus VAT.
The result, Bags more power, No hesitation, Tractable from low end, Revs freely into the upper end. Also seems to run a little smoother and quieter.
Have to say, Quite impressed with the car overall, now happy with the engine too.
Also impressed by the dealer, Inchcape of St Ives, Cambridgeshire
Vectra 2.0 DTI power problems - resolved -
Thats what it says on the paperwork £81.00. As i had been expecting that the part was £190, so when they quoted £200 for the job, i kept quiet and nodded agreeingly.
Yep, Does feel like i bought a new car, exactly my thoughts, was impressed when i pulled out of the garage. My wife has just got a new Seat Leon 1.9 TDI and i was very impressed by the performance, I think this Vectra is not too far behind it. ANyone know what the BHP figure is on the vectra, as the handbook quotes in KW.
No coughing and spluttering though in the morning Carl.
(Have either of you had any problems with your glow plugs??
I have no electrical feed at the supply cable (not even for a second in the mornings), and no lamp on the instrument panel.
Dean, On the Vectra the spark plugs only operate at low temoeratures on the 2.0 diesel Vectra.)
I can't recall if its 3c or 5c. However you will not see the glowplug lamp show at all until outside temperatures get very low and even then its for a very short period.
If you have a owners handbook it mentions this.
By the way, and on a different note, i noticed that the car was taking a long time to warm up, suspecting the thermostat obviously, popped into the local Vauxhall dealer as no-one else seemed to stock one, £36.61 WHAT!!!!!! Oh, and the gasket isn't included, thats another £2.20 It does come with an alloy housing though, just begs the question why would they have designed the car that way?
Does anyone know if the stat can be changed and if so, is there a suitable pattern part available for it?
I doubt if any pattern part thermostats are available, it seems to be the way manufacturers are going these days with 'modular' thermostats. Diesel engines do take a fair while to warm up (as they are thermodynamically more efficient than a petrol)
Re: Glow Plugs - Have you checked the plugs actually work? I know from experience that if a plug is down on a GM engine it can bring the light on, indicating a fault.
From memory, they're not cheap, either.
I'd try looking at the EGR valve too....this could present the same symptoms you are getting plus they are not known for their reliability......
I never did get to the bottom of it - the cost the air flow sensor put me off to be honest.
I still have the problem. Recently the speed range in 5th that I see the engine management light is widening - it used to be more or less exactly 75mph - but I now see it anywhere between 65mph and 75mph. The light will stay on for about a second or so, usually it will go out - however, if I happen to accelerate just as the light comes on - it will stay on and I have little or no power until I dip the clutch and allow the engine to return to idle speed - at which point it goes off again.
As for obtaining engine management readouts.... the newer Vectra has a different system and it's not possible to short pins and count dash light flashes - I've been there and tried it :(
I'd be more than interested to hear if anyone manages to definitively sort this one.
Has anyone ever managed to replicate this problem at any time other than cruising at 70(ish) in 5th?
had identical prob but got it sorted today if you look to the left of the turbo assy there is an actuator connected via a vacuum tube to an electronic solonoid if this fails it won\'t allow enough vacuum to acctuate the turbo properly this can be seen if an assistant revs the car (has to be done in car as a cable is not present as you probably already know) you can see a small yellow metal plunger move in and out as the revs hit the turbo opening rate.
I had the same power problem on my W reg vectra 2.0 DTi and replacing the MAS sorted it (£120 for the part, fitted mysef in 5 minutes.)
Concerning glow plug problems I was advised that the engine didn't have any, rather it had a heated inlet manifold. Whatever it has I don't get the cold start light on unless its really cold and the car always starts ok.... unless I have parked it facing uphill.
If I drive up the drive then it can take 2-3 minutes of cranking until it catches and fires, producing great clouds of white smoke (good job the battery is strong), parking downhill it fires immediately.
Anyone else had this problem and know the solution ?
hi mate this sounds like you might have very small deteriations in your leakoff fuel pipes ,they return unused fuel back to the tank they are located at the front of the the engine as you look down ,but you;ll need to remove that cover that says eco-tec on it.(small braided pipe about the same diameter as a pencil) you need to change all of these(as i had the same prob about 18 mnth ago) i think you'll get the pipe at a good stocked car diy/accessory shop if you go to the main dealer they;ll charge you a fortune.
as for the glow plug prob ..yes they are there and will only function when the outside temp is 2.0 oC or below. it confirms this somewhere in your owners handbook if you have one ( ican send you this info scaned and via email if you want it)