I think JohnWinchester is patronising us coming on here as a newbie and expecting complete sympathy for his dilemma, when in reality, our communal view of such matters was adequately explained to him in the first reply.
None of us here knows anyone else in the Back Room. Some of us talk sense (so it seems); some don't. We get a feeling for those that do and for a newbie to ask a question; receive a sensible reply and then march off because he does not like the answer implies that he has been 'caught out'.
Does anyone else think that it is sensible to have a brand new car 'home serviced' to the exclusion of dealer servicing, at least for the first three years?
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Quite agree Happy Blue. I can't understand how anyone can invest thousands of pounds on something they want to last and then fail to spend a few hundred on having it properly maintained by an authorised person. It may be there is an inherent fault in the product but to prove that the terms laid down by the manufacturer has to be fulfilled first.
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Hello.
Not at all patronising - I welcome courteous comments.
Still begs the question whether the problem would have occurred if a Skoda mechanic had drained the oil, changed the oil filter and added new oil at 10k intervals ?
I'm of the opinion - after careful consideration - (see Note) that it (the problem) would still have occurred.
Which; of course - leaves me with no choice other than litigation.
Note- I do have a little experience in Engineering - albeit not as a motor mechanic. My background is 45 years in the aircraft and computer industries as a Systems Design Engineer. In particular I spent time as a stress Engineer working on the catastrophic failure of airframe components subjected to fatigue cycles
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John, I'm glad you came back to us and as moderator I should have said 'welcome to the forum'. I'm also glad that my impression that you were servicing the car properly was correct: it's just that the manufacturer has no way of knowing how competent DIY servicing has been, or how well the car has been driven.
With 95,000 miles under its belt in 4 years, your Fabia's engine has clearly done some long trips. I'd be interested in your view as an engineer as to how well-suited a little 3-cylinder engine is to that sort of use. Certainly one could have expected the VAG 1,9 TDI to have done that mileage without major failure.
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I broadly agree with most of the comments.
John, coming from the view of 'if it aint broke don't fix it' i have very old fashioned views about most things and servicing is one of them, you just can't beat good miantenance for long life, i don't hold with the current fashion of extended service intervals at all..
..or in the case of auto gearboxes in the early noughties no servicing whatsoever, was that an April Fool which got out of hand i wonder, if so it cost some owners many £thousands when their sealed for life boxes popped their clogs, conveniently just comfortably out of warranty, never mind sir just sign here for another new car, kerching.
The typical service regime as required for VAG BMW etc i could not abide by, so i would have done similar to you and slipped at least one oil change in at around half way intervals, but i would have kept schtum about it.
I would not however have avoided the basic servicing requirements of the marque and in order to bank some goodwill (we assume the dealer/maker knows what this means, not all do) would have had the main dealer carry out the required normal servicing.
This would then give, one would hope,, a far better footing to make a claim in the event of failure.
I wish you the best of luck with this, but i fear you have given the dealer/maker the perfect defence of failing to stick to the terms of servicing, which are usuallymain dealer, preferable to garner goodwill, or at the very least receipted from a VAT regd garage normally using genuine parts.
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Some readers will know that as a former tester of diesel engines, I have made something of a study of the earlier VAG PD engines - and I have commented on the 3 cyl 1.4 engine above.
Now that these engines are old, my predictions concerning the longevity of the chain drive to the balancer shaft and oil pump have proved to be correct - it's useless.
A balancer shaft deliberately introduces torsional oscillation into the rotating system of the engine - that's what it's there for. At some engine speeds resonances will occur, giving rise to very large forces. A chain has no means of absorbing the energy contained within these oscillating masses - it's infinitely flexible in compression and inelastic in tension.
This conspires to make the set up the disaster it has proved to be. The problems with the chain on the 1.4PD have nothing whatever to do with maintenance - they are caused by the designer displaying complete ignorance of the Laws of Physics.
As I have often said of VAG - there are some good products out there (1.9PD) but there are also far too many with fundamental design faults which could have been avoided by the application of basic Physics and above all, common sense. The back-up given by this organisation does not meet my standards of trading integrity - so my advice would be to go very carefully if you buy products from them.
659.
Edited by 659FBE on 18/04/2014 at 17:02
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"The problems with the chain on the 1.4PD have nothing whatever to do with maintenance - they are caused by the designer displaying complete ignorance of the Laws of Physics."
Many thanks as ever, 659, for your expertise. This is of course John's problem - that the corporate mind (not just VAG) can't get its head round the idea that a part may fail which is nothing to do with servicing. They just invalidate the warranty anyway.
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Regarding long-life servicing - of any marque - I'd have to utterly agree. It is probably the most profitable solution for the manufacturers in the long run (after all, you lose one disgruntled customer to another marque, and gain one from that other marque), but it really smacks of milking those customers for every penny you can.
Regarding getting extra oil changes done : I've got one of the 'new' F31 BMW 3 series estates (privately owned, not business). Usual official BMW oil change interval is 18,000 miles (roughly). All I do is book in at the halfway point for an oil and oil filter change. Surprisingly, BMW main agents aren't that expensive for that, about £160.
Considering that my fuel, tyres, a 'normal' annual service, insurance, car tax, etc. work out at somewhere around £3,000 a year, that extra £160 really is lost in the background noise. Then, if you add in depreciation, that £160 becomes pretty insignificant.
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659FBE you obviously have a lot of experience with the PD engine, but I am curious as to the design robustness of the new 2.0 CR VAG engine (2011 Golf 140hp CFFB to be precise)? Not sure if you / anybody else know much about this engine? I've not really read anything about poor reliability. I bought one with 88k on the clock serviced by VW every 18k, so I know of all the scary stories that comes with that. Under my ownership it will have fresh Castrol Edge 5w30 oil + filter every 10k + Shell Nitro diesel. I'm getting 59mpg (computer) at the minute cruising at 70mph to the tune of ~15k / year. I've owned every 1.9 and 2.0 PD VAG ever made always enjoyed them (still do with my other car), but I have to give them some credit on this 2.0 CR in terms of driving experience - it's fantasticly quiet, pulls unbelievebly smooth (and like a horse) from nearly 1000rpm (not that I do that, but I have tested it) and obviously returns satisfactory mpg. If the reliability is going to be anything like the driving experience the future is rosy. I'm hoping that me looking after the car will be enough to get us to 200k.
Thanks
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It's difficult to predict reliability until an engine has been in production for some time - but a few observations:
The high pressure fuel pump is almost as highly stressed as the PD unit injectors - but has to survive on fuel lubrication rather than the optimised lubricating oil in the PD. This makes the engine extremely intolerant of mis-fuelling or poor fuel system maintenance. I would not expect a CR high pressure pump to last the life of the engine. (Bosch PD injectors nearly always do).
The oil pump drive coupling is still suspect on these engines - a carry over from the balancer 2.0PD. They have improved the depth of engagement of the coupling hex (axially and radially) and may have improved the concentricity tolerancing. I still give it 0/10 for engineering design in view of the torsionals present.
The CR has the same silly water pump location on the tight side of the cambelt - change at every belt change.
Away from the engine, DPFs can be troublesome and will likely cost maintenance money before you throw the engine away. Its differential pressure transducer (locted cosily near the exhaust) is a frequent failure item - not a deal-breaker though.
659.
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I should also have added:
VAG may now be sourcing turbochargers from suppliers other than Garret. Reliability is almost certain to suffer. I would investigate if Borg W are involved.
As Euro emissions standards march onwards, engine mounted actuators such as those for boost control and intake flaps require position feedback to give accurate control - the simple pneumatic devices of the older PDs in which the engine is included in the feedback control loop will not now pass muster.
This raises the real possibility of stripped plastic gears if an actuator is obstructed, or fatigue failure of the electronics due to vibration and thermal cycling. Expensive.
Would you mount a boost control electrical actuator with feedback control electronics 3" away from a red-hot turbocharger turbine fitted to a vibrating diesel engine and expect a long and trouble free life?
I'll keep my 1.9PD.
659.
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Would you mount a boost control electrical actuator with feedback control electronics 3" away from a red-hot turbocharger turbine fitted to a vibrating diesel engine and expect a long and trouble free life?
No , but then the people you hear from most who rave about modern diesels are buying new or nearly new and they are still within warranty, changing to another when it runs out, and leaving some other poor chancer to play russian roulette with the cast off's.
Apart from anything else, older diesels stink. I am behind at least one or two daily. Who bothers to check whether the EGR valve is working, or clean out the manifold as part of their maintenance? Not many I would think.
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Thanks for the feedback. Sounds grim. I guess at least the emission laws count for everyone so all manufacturers with diesels have to pull the same tricks. I've heard of some new VAG 2.0 CR with well over 200k with no issues, I think they have been around since 2008 now. So I'll try to treat mine as best I can and hope for the best. Heaven help us when all the PD engines are too old to use. Then we're properly £$%^& I guess. I'll kee my last PD as long as possible.
Thanks
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I forgot to ask when would you reccommend cleaning the EGR valve/manifold on the 1.9 PD and on the 2.0 CR? Is this very exspensive?
Edited by 5cylinderdiesel on 25/04/2014 at 23:19
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I forgot to ask when would you reccommend cleaning the EGR valve/manifold on the 1.9 PD and on the 2.0 CR? Is this very exspensive?
Look up 1.9 PD EGR valve/manifold cleaning on You Tube and marvel at the soot build up in some engines. I had a new EGR valve fitted to my old Audi 80 Tdi, but the old one was completely blocked up and soot was set hard like coal.
I'm not sure how much a garage would charge to do it as it is a messy job and wouldn't be on their favourites list!
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659FBE why are you asking whether B Warner is now building teh turbo's? Are they better or worse than Garrett and why? When (what sort of mileage) would you be cleaning or replacing the EGR valve on your 1.9 PD? Or do you driv eit till it shows signs of blockage? Are there other things to consider when doing this?
Thanks again
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Lots of manufacturers are moving to 3-cylinder engines, so it's unlikley that the engine's durability will be affected simply by it having only 3 cylinders.
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QUOTE:...""Apart from anything else, older diesels stink. I am behind at least one or two daily.""
What's worse is a poorly tuned petrol engined banger - where you get a cocktail of exhaust fumes, burnt oil and worse, a whiff of unburnt petrol from leaky fuel system!
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Some very new Diesels stink, you won't smell any fumes from the exhaust on my MAN lorry, ever, but if one of our 62 plate Scanias fires up or is on fast tickover (operating hydraulics and blower) at a customer same time as me, i'm often reduced to a choking wreck, even as far as actually throwing up.
The worse smelling Diesels were Rovers of 45/600 vintage, they stank horribly.
Smokiest Diesels i've seen recently have been mk3 Mundanes, fist sized clumps of soot coming out the tail pipe on the motorway, lovely.
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When catalytic converters started being fitted to petrol engine cars, it was quite common to get the smell of rotten eggs (hydrogen sulfide) from the exhaust. Not having had a petrol engine for the last 10 years I was wondering if this still happens?
I've not noticed it yet from my new petrol A3. Have they reduced the amount of sulfur in petrol and made the problem go away?
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To respond to a few points raised above:
Garrett turbochargers enjoy an excellent reputation - but are expensive. I have traced many of VAG's c o c k ups over the years directly to their cost reduction strategies - injectors: Bosch -> Siemens; ABS controllers: Bosch - > Teves and I believe the turbochargers have now gone the same way to BW. A Google check on USA failures might be interesting. The consequences of these changes in component sourcing have not generally been in the best interests of their customers.
The above examples all represent high tech components in which considerable costs are incurred, with VAG having to contribute to third party organisation profits (although these organisations have done much of the development work). The temptation to find cheaper sources of supply must be hard for them to resist - especially if their trading morals do not match mine.
EGR sooting should not be a problem with ULS fuel - but it's easy enough to disconnect the charge pipe in-situ and check with a small mirror. Some spirited driving will help (hot engine only) by blowing accumulated lubricating oil out of the intercooler. I'm not in the least worried about this on my 1.9PD as it currenty pulls better than when it was new.
Three cylinder engines are a menace to engine-mounted components (alternators, starters, fuel pumps, glow plugs etc.) as they lack primary balance. These components often show shorter life spans on 3 cyl engines due to high levels of vibration. Another topic...
659.
Edited by 659FBE on 26/04/2014 at 23:25
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Great thread, I have an AVB 100hp A4, an 02 Avant with just 75k on the clock (bought it @ 45k) I have no intention of getting rid. The vehicle drives well with regular 5k oil changes,
I've never cleaned out the EGR, what are the symptoms of it being gummed up? I do occasionally get a slight hessiation at low revs, could that be the cause?
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I always find your posts fascinating and informative 659, so thank you for taking the time. One thing I wonder is when your 1.9PD eventually wears out ( I have one too-the BXE 105 version), what will its replacement be? Will you stick with diesel for its efficiency but now-compromised with its complexity and emission controlsor will you switch to a well-engineered petrol motor from someone like Honda or Toyota perhaps? And if so, do you have any recommendations for those of us who are similarly weary of Euro5 and Euro 6 diesels?
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QUOTE:...""Apart from anything else, older diesels stink. I am behind at least one or two daily.""
What's worse is a poorly tuned petrol engined banger - where you get a cocktail of exhaust fumes, burnt oil and worse, a whiff of unburnt petrol from leaky fuel system!
I can't remember the last time I got stuck behind an worn petrol engine with oil smoke - modern ones last for ages even if neglected, but the EGR systems on diesels don't.
Some I've noticed are VAG, any van (no wonder), Ford TDCi's.
Better are Toyota D4D, Honda CDTi, Volvo D5.
Actually, I've just remembered - a guy at work was driving a Mk1 petrol Micra from the eighties that smoked a bit, but I figure that has an excuse, and anyway he soon killed it, so that won't be causing an annoyance anymore :)
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Thanks again for the feedback. Both my 1.9 PD 105hp and 2.0 CR 140hp are still pulling brilliantly and gives me fantastic mpg by any standarts, so I guess that's a good sign. My 1.9 PD has 128k on the clock and I bought it with 69k. It's always had oil changed at 10k and for the last ~5000 miles I only use Shell Nitro diesel and intend to do that going forward (it gives about 3% more mpg so not much extra cost). My 2.0 CR was bought at 88k and now has 90k and I'm changing oil every 9k (not 18k as per book schedule) and I only use Shell Nitro in that one as well. So I guess I might ask the garage to check EGR at next services to see if it needs attention. I try to reach 4000rpm in 2nd + 3rd each week after the oil temp has reached ~90C+ and when I do long trips (50+ miles and I think this happens regularly enough) I do this various times during such journeys. It's funny the 1.9 PD has a tendancy to blow black smoke the first time you do ~4000rpm after it's been driven slowely for a week or more, but then it dissapears quickly again.
Cheers
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I've just come across this thread while searching for information about an EGR valve for a 2010 Skoda Fabia Greenline mk2 1.2TDI 3-cylinder. Said valve has just been diagnosed as broken (at 99000km) by my local mechanic. My question is do all the points made about the 1.4TDI 3-cylinder apply to the 1.2TDI. Would especially like to hear 659's comments.
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