anybody able to help with a problem with BL Miestro water heated inlet manifold ,heated water inlet and outlet pipes (smaal robber pipes on route to heater matrix)are connected to inlet manifold using steel tubing which has corroded/roted and need replacing .does anyone know if these are just pushed in to the manifold(made of aluminium / muck metal)or are they threaded or fixed in another way, or is it a replacement manifold.hope this makes sense any advice much appreciated.
chris
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sorry if i affended any robbers but should read small rubber not smaal robber.
chris
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Chris, you don't say exactly what the manifold is like or which engine your Maestro uses but if it's anything like the manifold on the 1.3 MG Metro (Maestro 1.3 simular BL A+ engine) then the pipe is cast in situ as far as I could tell. I doubt that water is circulated around the whole of the casting just run through it to provide some heat to stop the carb iceing (if it's a carb type fuel system) and to aid economy. The best bet would be to try the MG-Rover forum and post a question to DR Dave. Good Luck.
Steve.
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Chris,
The pipes may be glued into the manifold in the same way that the bleed pipe is fixed into some BL thermostat housings, however I think it much more likely that they are cast in situ.
Rather than buy a new manifold, you ought to be able to find someone who could drill and tap the existing manifold and fit a new bit of pipe that has been threaded at one end.
Another way would be to drill out the old pipe and Loctite a new bit in. There is a danger, though, that the aluminium manifold will expand more than the steel pipe and the pipe will come out. This could be bad for the engine and dangerous for anyone leaning over it. If the pipe is a very tight fit in the manifold there should be no problem. One way to achieve this would be to drill (better still, ream) the hole in the manifold very slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the pipe and then warm up the manifold before pressing in the pipe. Knurling the pipe end would help keep it Loctited in place.
Loctite works by filling gaps and is excellent when in compression or shear but it has very little 'sticking' properties. If Loctite is used I would suggest grade 638 or 640 (from memory) as these retain a reasonable strength at the temperatures that the manifold will see. It will need to be applied to both parts because a lot of it will be lost by the wiping action as the pipe is pressed home.
Having said all that, I still strongly recommend a threaded fixing if that can be achieved.
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thanks dizzy and steve for the advice, local small independent garage thinks he can order new steel pipes to replace so think may not be cast in manufacture.Will see when / if they arrive
Yes you are correct in that it just heats the inlet manifold, as a tempory measure possible to bypass manifold with straight lenght of tubing?
chris
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ps happy new year to you all
chris
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I know the bits you are on about - from memory [don't quote me] these are available seperately. I don't think they were available specifically gor the Maestro but ones from a Metro or such did the job.
We used to replace quite a few.
MG-Rover Problems? forums.mg-rover.org
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I know the bits you are on about - from memory [don't quote me] these are available seperately. I don't think they were available specifically gor the Maestro but ones from a Metro or such did the job. We used to replace quite a few. MG-Rover Problems? forums.mg-rover.org
can you remember how they were secured in place ie interference fit/ loctite / glued or other means?
chris
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From memory, it was whack 'em in and hope! It wasn't an 'approved' repair.
A bit of loctite or thread sealant wouldn't go amiss.
I'll have a look tommorrow and see if I can find the part number for you.
MG-Rover Problems? forums.mg-rover.org
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Chris,
If the existing pipes are Loctited in it should help in removing them if you could heat the manifold to at least 200 degress C. This could be done in a domestic oven if you are taking the manifold off to do the job. Heating to this temperature will expand the aluminium and will also considerably reduce the strength of the Loctite.
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I think the original stubs were an interference fit - again the heat should help removal
MG-Rover Problems? forums.mg-rover.org
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