Read the HJ review.. very detailed...

Auxiliary belt will easily last 100k miles/10 years.. it's very tough.

Watch rear exhasut box - they corrode.

As does petrol filler pipe.. under rear wing and into tank.

Anti toll bar bushes at front wear - look for splits £50 parts from Toyota.

Check clutch for engagemnet and no vibrations when starting.

Start engine from cold. There should be NO rattles from it..

Alloys corrode..

Check all warning lights especially Engine and ABS work when switch on ignition and then go out. No lights = bulbs removed = walk away.

Very tough and if well serviced there should be no mechanical issues..(as I say read HJ article - we have two in family and parts of that were from my experiences)

Edited by madf on 26/10/2011 at 14:32

Well if nobody else is going to chip in....

Some general car buying things....

See the V5...feel it does it look like a real one or a colour photocopy. Check the V5 data numbers match with the car...do the figures on the car look original?

Meet this chap at the address that is ON the V5 ..is he the named keeper? If not thats a red flag.

Take someone with you - so your not going to be mugged for the cash your presumably be carrying.

Aux belt? Surely you mean Cam belt (or is the Yaris a chain?). Thats got to be done soon if it hasn't already been done, so factor that into the deal.

Tyres good? Exhaust look ok. any body damage?

Is the engine cold when it starts up? Blue smoke out the exhaust? (Run if there is).

Interior are the pedal rubbers worn or the wheel look worn smooth. Does the drivers seat look knackered. Are the odometer figures perfectly in line (or is it digital?). Has he in the FSH all the old MOT's .(they have mileage on them) does it jive with the service book? Check to see how many keys he has. Sometimes one is a 'Master Key' (like on Fiats) those are mega expensive to replace.

When it starts a petrol Yaris should run smoothly and quietly..when you 'rev it', does it sound 'rattly' when warm? If so its a sign of big mileage or problems.

Finally look in the door bins or under the mats for broken glass. If so a window may have been changed so explanation? In the boot lift the mat so you can see if there are any rough welds - indicating a rear end shunt and botched repair - walk away. Spare wheel /Jack present?

Look under the bonnet at the front 'slam panel' Is it straight with no bends? (classic front end shunt sign that) . Look under the car to see if there are any odd looking coa***ly welded seams that might indicate say two cars welded together (a red flag that!). Under the front see if there is any play in the steering arms.

Test drive.

Start off with the hand brake on. To test for a slipping clutch. On a smooth road rest your hands on the wheel very lightly and brake (check no ones behind you) hard to see if it pulls violently to one side. Does it steer straight or wander a bit?

Finally -whew!. Does it look loved. Bits hanging off, or untidy or smelling like a Bolivian unicyclists jckstrap inside? Then pass on it. Squirt the washers and try the wipers. work ok? In fact try every switch /light headlight etc to confirm it's all working.

Don't forget - a lot of cars have coded radio's these days. Make sure it's amongst the paperwork that you see. Alloy wheels - may have locking wheel nuts...make sure you get the key off the bloke.

All this will take about 45 minutes if you do it thoroughly.

Might help if you wrote out a checklist.

HPI check is a great idea too.

Probably stuff I've missed but if all thats OK it will probably be fairly minor.

Best of luck.

Edited by Ethan Edwards on 26/10/2011 at 14:53

Thank you all for replying. Will be taking a big ol' checklist with me and will go from there!

Your help is much appreciated :)