Thanks for the advice guys, I really appreciate the responses.

I agree with the above post, my dilemma I do feel i can afford the car with enough for maintenance etc however it's like spending money knowing that the car is faulty. Like doing spending money on a house survey then pulling hot. £1000 lost is better then a money pit of alloys. It may be worth just saving myself the hassle and going for a similar car with smaller alloys and trying to get some of my money back.

Thank you guys

My 230's have been on the car since July 2007.

I wouldn't bother with a spare wheel / set just in case it cracks. Although it is quite a wise decision to buy a seperate set of alloys with winter tyres on. Then you can fall back on them to keep the car mobile whilst you look for a 230.

You will find the 19's (especially with runflats) quite useless in the snow. As are most BMWs on runflats.

Having said that, don't think the 230 will crack. They are just like any other low profile wheel. It was the 225 m-sport wheel that had a design flaw.

Word of warning, if you do decide on winter tyres/wheels (e.g. if you do a lot of miles and heavily rely on your car in winter), don't leave it too late. The stock of winter tyres goes by Oct/Nov and prices skyrocket. A good second hand set with good winter tread are quite rare but cost about £500-600. I know that sounds a lot BUT the cost of a summer tyre is around £250 each so you save on the wear of very expensive run flats. So it ofsets nicely, plus they are so in demand you recoupe your cost at resale. Also don't worry about the tyre prices, many of us swap to non runflats which are cheaper and better.

I would put the idea of the 230 going to crack out of your mind. They are BY FAR the best looking wheel for the coupe. I have them on my coupe and love them. Enjoy the car and just worry closer to the time whether you want a spare set or not. And the 230 cracks it will only really get picked up during an MOT. Some people do get them welded but many prefer not to. You could as a temporary solution if funds are difficult at the time. Nothing wrong going the ebay route providing you can check in person and ALWAYS use a good tyre fitter because some say the pressure and poor handling of some tyre removal machines can crack the alloy at the beading. You will get good advice on e90post UK section / forum. A lot of us there are car addicts / petrol heads and only do the very best for our cars.

Edited by OldSkoOL on 29/04/2011 at 18:40

No problem

With regards to swapping to non runflats. The runflats have a very stiff sidewall, designed to take the weight of the car in the event of a puncture. Because the compound is much stiffer the energy doesn't dissapate through the rubber or compress the rubber as much when you hit a pothole. Therefore more of the impact is transfered into the alloy.

A non runflat is obviously more flexible and gives you slightly more protection from cracking. Just watch it trying to straighline speed humps. Bad idea as the 19's are like rubber bands and the edge of the alloy will hit the tarmac. It is generally only deep pot holes that cause problems and its generally when the inner edge of the alloy meets tarmac directly.

Your right on the sensor, there is a tyre monitoring system attached to the ABS sensor. There is no tyre pressure monitoring system TPMS, this doesn't exist on UK 3 series BMW's. So dont worry about having to get replacement valves etc. The ABS sensor monitors rolling circumferance for any pressure loss. It normally activates within 10psi drops. If you have a crack the tyre with leak air very slowly. If you refil, reset the monitor and it comes on a week or 2 later then you know you potentially have either a slow puncture (easy to check for nails) or a hairline crack, harder to see without removing the wheel.

Will be great to get check before handing over the cash. If anything is found they should replace anything found before the sale takes place.

The 330d is a very solid engine, excellent blend of economy and power, many of the owners run them well over 100k miles with no problems. Give it good fuel and continue with the servcing and you will really enjoy it.

Edited by OldSkoOL on 29/04/2011 at 19:33

I meant the opposite really, the non run flat tyres would give more protection if a crack occured from an impact and the non runflat compound would compress and take out / disperse some of the energy.

Run flats give you the security of puncture protection but so does a can of foam and a compressor, circa £26 - £30 (for 2 cans).

I know of a few people who have ran e9x diesel BMWs to 150-180k miles. 330d is the weapon of choice for high milers, plenty of owners touching 100k without issue. If it's an auto they are classed as maintance free but some choose to get the gearbox fluid redone around 120k if you plan to use it to well over 200k.

Turbos, fuel pumps and injectors generally fault free (unlike 320d and 335i). No known common faults on the 330d. Only thing is service, which i mentioned the cost and brakes. Potentially around £250-£300 per axel. BUT my 335d brakes will last till nearly 50k. I'm not there yet, rears due at 46k and fronts 53k. Rears tend to go quicker in the 335d because the brakes are used to control traction and the rears spin up easily.

Also oldskool, the fact that the occur I’m going to get is 3.5 years old and 65k and fingers crossed have nor cracks stand me in good stead for the future? Or can they happen anytime?

Stiff suspension, low profile tyres, runflats. Well, you must want the car i suppose.

I do wonder why these cars are bought, when the owners than have anxieties over driving on the roads in them, and have to make sure their warranties covers broken wheels, turbos etc.

Is it really all worth it for the extra bit of grip & lateral G (and maybe kudos from similarly equipped drivers..) ?

For many road conditions we encounter these days, a more forgiving wheel/suspension set-up is better; and, A to B, not much slower or less exciting!