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Thanks Corax...bookmarked that one.
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I would buy that Clarke 4000 now except it doesn't feature a compressor - dead handy that and my old 400 amp starter that's 10 years old has got. I can't be buying it to go backwards in spec.
thanks for the help, anyway
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I did a fair bit of research before buying another one MP and the consensus seems to be that pro jump packs are just that and they spent the money on battery power good cables etc not accessories.
Could you strip the compressor out of the old one and bodge a set of small leads up for it?
Let us know which one you go for.
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Not feasable, stripping the compressor - would be a canine's meal at best . I don't find a compressor an ' accessory ' , rather an integral part of an important machine. Number of times I've saved myself driving around to useless garages to top up with air just to find their air lines are out of use . I have 2 cars that see at most 20 days use each per year so no, would not countenance not having a compressor
Am still searching - and that Tanya website is just one of those 'do it all ' websites , masters of all trades.... they are only re-directers of online traffic, the estate agents of search engines. I like to deal with the stockholder direct.
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Am still searching - and that Tanya website
Tayna....;)
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motorprop & GB
Tayna.co.uk ! I noticed when you google it, tanya comes up which is a bit confusing, the two words are very similar.
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Why don't you buy the Clarke 4000, buy a small compressor and plug it into the 12V socket on the jump starter when you need it.
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Another cheaper and arguably more versatile solution would be a spare battery, trickle charger, compressor (as above), and some decent jump leads.
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Not the last option . I sometimes need to transport the jump starter on my bike to get to a stranded motor - then chuck the bike inside. You can only transport car batteries flat and upright, whereas the all in one can take a bit of a pounding and no acid leaks .
The all-in-one machine has a comfortable handle and is designed to be carried around, not a motley collection of cables and leads.
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Ah you won't want the 4000 or an equivalent then MP, what the pics don't show is that they are twice as deep as the normal size and twice as heavy having double the battery size inside.
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I think you'll have trouble trying to find a jump starter with a capacity of 1000A + and expect it to be compact enough to carry on a bike. From what I can see, the 4000 is the best compromise between power/price. I have the old 900 which I've had for years and provides sterling service (I always keep it charged), but that won't be enough for your needs. Still, keep looking, and let us know what you come up with!
(There are some good ones on this site 'theultimatefinish.co.uk', but probably not suitable/too expensive.)
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www.justoffbase.co.uk/PowerStart-Emergency-Power-P...0
We use these at work and what a cracking bit of kit but paid a lot less than that price!
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This is the nearest I've come to so far ;
cgi.ebay.co.uk/SWPP1-Portable-Power-Pack-Jump-Star...c
But ideally i'd like the same with a 4 figure Amp output ...
thanks for all contributors
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Is it possible to connect two units together/use two on the same job to give the output you need?
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interesting concept, especially as the largest vehicle I intend to use it on has 2 separate batteries , though I can't really hump two around. Not sure how it works , will the power be added up or is it the same amperage ?
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Is this something to do with wiring in series or parallel?
I've never quite understood the difference.
So we could do with someone who knows what they are talking about. :)
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It isn't always the lack of power from the power pack/slave battery that makes jump starting hard, it's often the quality of the cables of said pack and jumper leads.
I've had to jump start hundreds of different vehicles with my work, several Diesel vehicles stood out as needing 2 or often 3 sets of top quality jumper leads to give enough current.
They are transits, most Japanese 4x4's, Sherpa's and a few others.
Believe it or not my very good set of Lucas leads will jump a 12 litre truck but won't jump a transit Diesel...work that one out.
My Landcruiser was twin battery wired in parallel so still 12 volt but giving something like CC current of 1400amps, takes a good set of leads to match that.
I really can't see a cheap jump pack making it.
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i have a massive set of home made jump leads for big stuff gb, had them 20 years but weirdly ive had the same problem and i dont have an answer
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i should imagine NC will be along in a while to tell us the reasons for it BB, only hope i can make head or tail of the answer..;)
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I've no idea.
Strewth i've copied and pasted that into a document and will peruse over the next few years.;)
Let me expand a little, my Hilux has almost the same basic engine as my old Landcruiser...3 litre 4 cyl Diesel though it's now got a common rail fuel system.
I noticed the starter motor on my new one is tiny especially if compared to the Cruiser which had twin batteries 1400a cold start as against the single on the hilux 830a cold start.
The engine turns over appreciably quicker with presumably less current being needed.
Could that be why the vehicles i referred to all older fashioned Transit and Japanese 4x4s needed so much cranking power whereas a 12 litre modern truck will start via the same leads which won't start a Tranny, just down to old fashined slow turning high current starters?...no doubt 12/24v has some bearing.
Or am i barking up the wrong un again.
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>I noticed when you google it, tanya comes up which is a bit confusing, the two words are very similar.
I'd recommend Tayna as well. I ordered a battery for my Camaro from them a few months ago. Cheaper than OEM from Bauer Millet and delivered next day. BM claimed that batteries could not be couriered and had to be collected!
>it's often the quality of the cables of said pack and jumper leads.
Very true. The problem is the voltage drop across the cables. Cable quality is important but a good rule of thumb is that the shorter and thicker they are the better. The clamps need to be beefy too.
>will jump a 12 litre truck but won't jump a transit Diesel...work that one out.
Recent Jags are notorious for this. The ECU appears to be very fussy about supply voltage, maybe other Fords are the same?
Kevin...
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Very true. The problem is the voltage drop across the cables. Cable quality is important but a good rule of thumb is that the shorter and thicker they are the better. The clamps need to be beefy too. >will jump a 12 litre truck but won't jump a transit Diesel...work that one out.
If it wasn't for the fact they'll start a 12 litre truck i'd say yes though maybe 24v is better for voltage loss, and to be fair the cables are quite long but very high quality.
It isn't that they won't start it's that a Tranny takes so much current they won't turn over till you've got a second and possibly third set on...i'm referring to previous model Tranny here by the way, we no longer get involved too much on jumping.
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That some kind of age related thing GB?
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That some kind of age related thing GB?
Steady tiger, is the thought of trannies making you blush or wince..;)
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Well, jumping one was never on my list of urgent things to do but should the need ever arise I am now much better informed once again due to the collective wisdom of the backroom !
;-)
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>It isn't that they won't start it's that a Tranny takes so much current they won't turn
>over till you've got a second and possibly third set on..
GB,
Yup, that's what I was trying to explain but English isn't my first language ;-)
If you connect jump leads to a vehicle with partially discharged battery the current draw from the donor should be small enough to give ~13v on the bad battery, enough to bring the ECU to life.
As soon as you try to crank the engine you're pulling 500 amps or whatever. If your jump leads are 0.01 Ohms that 13v suddenly becomes 8v - possibly not enough to keep the ECU happy. If you have three sets of jump leads attached (of the same characteristics) you've got ~11.5v.
Kevin...
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Thanks Kevin, looks like just one of those things then, some vehicles with heavy current draw will be a pita to jump start, glad BB and others have found the same and it wasn't just me.
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motorprop
Have you got yourself a jumpstarter yet? I've just noticed in Car Mechanics magazine that Machine Mart are doing a new Clarke 1010. It has starting boost of 1000A and comes with inbuilt compressor :-)
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Not yet - I shall investigate immediately...
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Had a look on Machine Mart's website - looks mighty promising. However, unless I'm missing something - always possible at 3 am - , there is no mention of a 1000 amp output - can you see it ?
No mention on Clarke's own website either.... have emailed to ask them, whether I buy depends on their reply
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On the printed advert in Car Mechanics magazine, it shows the cold cranking amps as 1000A and peak amps as 2000A.
No, I couldn't see the output on the internet site either. See if you can leaf through one of the above mags in the newsagents, they always have a Machine Mart advert in there.
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Just looked at the Clarke website and it lists the 1010 as having a start boost of 400A and peak power of 900A. So one of them must be right, unfortunately this one I reckon!
See what answer you get out of Clarke.
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Clarke responded, but just invited me to ' check their website ' - no specific answer to specific question..
I must be a difficult punter - wanting technical information before buying....
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Sorry motorprop, I was looking at the wrong jumpstarter, a dual output 12/24V.
The Clarke 1010 is 400A, it can start petrols and diesels up to 3 litres. Probably not enough.
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