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Id be far more inclined to source a similar aged Micra auto - cheaper to run and still around in reasonable numbers. I owned an '87 5dr which went well enough and reliable.
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if it does not have power steering then it the steering will be too heavy for a learner.
That's crap Rattle. Power steering is pleasant (if working and properly designed - I've driven cars with awful power steering) but it isn't essential. My wife, a slim and delicate lady although no weakling, learned on a horrible Lada with steering as heavy as a tractor's. She loved the ghastly thing too.
It might even be said that doing the work yourself, not being insulated from the machinery so to speak, gives you a better feel for what you are doing.
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Re the Micra... yes, I looked there first but nothing anywhere near local, or cheap...
Re power steering, yep we had a discussion on that, and she seems happy enough not to have it... I suppose everything else being done for you has its advantages...
Insurance - I've already checked and its not much more than the smaller engined stuff.
Just for the price is very tempting, but I've never had an auto before so not sure what to look for... Bell Boy, any tips?!
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The is not having power steering, and there is not having power steering on of the cars famous for its heavy steering. I cannot imagine its much better than a Lada for the steering. The post 1992 ones sorted the steering problem out, PAS or not.
I've had two cars without PAS, and I managed fine that was after being used to be a brand new Clio. However those cars didn't have that heavy steering to start with.
Edited by Rattle on 18/12/2009 at 16:23
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I drove an '86 Sierra auto with no PAS when I was 18 - heavy yes - unmanagable, no. She could save on a gym membership :-)
Truth is, make sure tyres are the right pressure and only doing tight parking manouvers will be a bit testing, but you learn the push-pull technique pretty quick and that is no bad thing.
Is it one of those CVT Escorts btw? Horrid things they were.
If there are any other options fairly local to you, throw them up for discussion. I think insurance on the Escort is grp 9-10, so expensive as the Rattler says.
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The reason the insurance is so expensive on these cars is because they were never that safe even for 1990 standards and they were and still are a joy riders favourite. My mates dads Orion (the one I once drove) got stolen four times in total, each time recovered.
At least being an auto it may put of the theives.
If you live in a sleepy village then of course that won't make much difference to the insurance.
Edited by Rattle on 18/12/2009 at 16:57
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The reason the insurance is so expensive on these cars is because they were never that safe even for 1990 standards and they were and still are a joy riders favourite.
Rattle the theiving scumbags break into your house and take the keys now in 2009 so these are not safe!
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The brakes will need new discs they will be warped if juddering so new pads and discs.
Service the thing even if it's just a simple oil change and drop the oil on the auto box this will make gear changing much smoother and replace the filter, do check the timing belt there cheap.
Rear brakes need a look at too nothing bad on the old fords wheel cylinder do leak and are cheap, they was a good car back then as for pas well i had a astra without it and it was no problem & fords too you will manage just fine.
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Having no power steering allows the development of good steering technique. You only have to watch the average 4x4 driver in a a supermarket carpark to feel some sympathy for little rubber molecules!
Failing that, a set of weights as a birthday present before L day will do the trick.
Edited by pmh3 on 18/12/2009 at 17:00
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A basic test for autos is does it go into gear smoothly and swiftly?
Any delays or clonks going from 'P' or 'N' to 'D' is a sign of impending bother.
Don't see how you can go wrong for the money - some people spend more than that on lunch.
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As most of us know I've had a few old bangers and he is how you go wrong.
You replace that tyre because it has a bulge in it, £40, you can then replace that brake reverver cap because the warning light switch is jammed, £7, you then replace a ball joint because the steering as too much play £40, then you get those discs and pads done, £150. Everything is fine 50 miles later the inside drivers door handle breaks £50 and a long trip to the scrappies. Then just as you have sorted the old banger you pull out of a tricky junction and the clutch burns out. Never mind you drive a few weeks with no clutch being beeped at junctions trying to get the thing to shift and just as you're saving for the new clutch your foot goes through the drivers floor by the footwell!
A £150 car is fine if you can live with some faults, some will be ilegal and potentialy dangerious if you can't you either need to spend a lot of money or do all the work yourself.
That said I did buy a £400 once which was perfectly safe, it passed the MOT no trouble but it needed a new engine. That was my fault for being ignorant when I bought it.
I would get a machanic to give it a quick check over, because you know aftet the £150 you need to sort the brakes out anyway, it might be cheaper in the long run to buy a £600 fully tested car which should give a good year or more motoring. We spent £850 on my dads car 28 months ago, over 20k later machanicaly it is sound, things have gone wrong with it I admit but its very cheap motoring. I really enjoy driving it.
Edited by Rattle on 18/12/2009 at 17:56
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it might be cheaperin the long run to buy a £600 fully tested car which should give a good year or more motoring.
Excuse me while I choke with laughter, but where do you find these "£600 fully tested cars"?
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They are usualy very unpopular cars, you will find a lot of good 40k Protons with 12 months MOT on ebay. My dads car was £850 came with 12 months MOT and that type of car is in high demand in this area.
By fully tesed I meant MOT, I should have put it in inverted commas. I didn't mean its without faults but they should at least be worth roathy for 12 months with a few simple repairs inbetween.
There are a lot of good Escorts in that price bracket too, I was so tempted by then but the insurance was £1600 compared to £850 on my Corsa (at the time) so I could not justify it.
All I am saying is that for £150 this Escort probably will need some work doing to it, if this work is being done in a garage it might turn out to be an expensive 20 year old car.
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Rattle you just got robbed they saw you coming.!!
The op was not bothered about the car if it lasted 3 months then scraps it he's lost nowt besides scrap is doing well he might break even.............
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Rattle, I know roughly what to look for (36 years driving and many old bangers behind me!), it was mainly the Auto transmission I was wondering about, as thats totally new to me, and thoughts on the brakes. For less than 200 quid I don't really expect a lot, tbh PAS is just another thing to go wrong on a car of this age, probably better off without it.
Re insurance, I'd refer you to the earlier post, its virtually no different to auto Corsas or Micras, all were around the 750 mark!
iit, thanks, that was I was looking for, I'll try that - I did a test where it was stopped on a slope and it started off when the brake was let off but no accelerator, but that was all I knew at the time.
Bigtee, yes that makes good sense.
You've all got me interested as to which auto version it is, its G reg 1990, 1.6L, looks like the mk2 version of the fwd versions (mk4?) (no grill as such on the front)... any way of telling which auto box it has?
Edited by b308 on 18/12/2009 at 19:45
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The MK4 is supposed to have much lighter steering than the MK5 anyway :).
If this is the MK4 then it is actually probably a better car. I am only saying my experience with Escorts, a 1.6 Focus was actually 2/3 the price of an Escort to insure, the groups reflect that. In your case it dosn't appear to make any difference but I did not know that when I mentioned it.
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>>You've all got me interested as to which auto version it is, its G reg 1990, 1.6L, looks like the mk2 version of the fwd versions (mk4?) (no grill as such on the front)... any way of telling which auto box it has? <<
Around about that year was when it was brought in. You can tell when driving it - you should hear/feel the gearchange on a conventional auto.
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if it does not have power steering then it the steering will be too heavy for a learner.
Millions of us oldies learned to drive without the benefit of power steering.
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