Hi,
I am looking to do a total respray for my landrover but I dont no much about spraying cars and I would like your help.
I am going to hire a sprayer looking at a cellulose sprayer would this be ok for spraying a car?
What paint do i need to prepare such as primers, basecoat, topcoat. thiners, etc.
Can somebody please give me some step by step instructions on how to do a total car respray on a car please.
You also can email me on danielshaw235 at googlemail.com
Look forward for your help.
Dan
Made make/model non-specific - moved to Tech
Edited by Pugugly on 12/12/2009 at 11:55
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Respraying a whole car is not really a beginners job - unless you're very lucky it will end up looking rubbish. The actualy spraying is about 10% of the job - the rest is prep (80%) and post spray finishing. You need a nice warm, dry, dust free gargage to do any good. Cellulose is largely gone now, so you need 2-pack and an air fed mask. A decent respray of something as big as a Disco is going to be the thick end of 5 grand - there is a reason for that!
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Did anyone see the Wheeler Dealers programme where Ed covered the Mini in glorified shrinkwrap?
Looked the part when he'd finished.
He used a carbon fire effect, but I bet you can get metallic or solid colours, which might do the job for the OP's Defender.
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...car wrapping...
Googling the obvious produces, among other things, this:
tinyurl.com/yapf4rg
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with it being a landrover why not consider brush painting it with a quality paint brush and say coach paint,you would be surprised what good results you can get if you take your time (plus minimum masking require) on some areas a flat roller for good effect can be used too
i used to brush lots of commercials 20 plus years ago and you couldnt tell from a respray
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Quite right BB, company i worked for used to do exactly that, cabs in BRgreen, white bumpers (later black) and black chassis (later sprayed hammerite).Best presented and maintained fleet in Northamptonshire.
Food for thought for the pick up.
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Thanks bb that did enter my mind but I dident think it would turn out so good but now other people have recommended this I think I will try this.
I have found a webiste that supplys "Tekaloid" paint apparently this is quality paint if you are painting using a brush.
Would you recommend that paint.
Thanks for the help much appreciated.
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I presume you've seen
www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/
It's worth reading, even if, as in my case, you start to think it's all too difficult. We then traded in the Landie for a Disco.
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If you decide to paint it rather than spray use a small gloss roller rather than a brush, you'll get a much better finish.
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You could end up with a mess if not in a warm dry dust free environment.
You would need to practice with a spray gun. It needs speeding up (a rapid flip) at the end of the arm swing or the paint won`t go on right. Too thick it`s orange peel and too thin it runs. (I`ve only used cellulose)
I agree with the others about brush painting it, but unless you have virtually professional fac ilities with fume extraction, I would wait until Summer.
Edited by oilrag on 12/12/2009 at 21:03
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you only need a still day to brush paint outside and obviously a temperature above freezing
tekloid good stuff but dearer than i was willing to pay im afraid,last commercial i did about 3 years ago i bought the paint at b and q for £25 for 2.5 litres it went on a treat
i did lots of cellulose painting with no extraction and it did me no harm,i say it did me no harm,in fact it saved me money as i was high as a kite and only needed a pint of milk to get the old throat clear again..................
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I once painted an old Land Rover I had with a brush. Bright orange. Looked OK. Actually, it looked terrible but it looked less terrible than it did before I painted it. Well, a bit less terrible.....
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you only need a still day to brush paint outside and obviously a temperature above freezing tekloid good stuff but dearer than i was willing to pay
SQ
Yh you are rite about the tekaloid being more expensive so would you recommend cellulose paint using a mini gloss roller. I will wait untill summer because it will probobley take me that long to prep the body work ( 6 months of sanding and filling) lol.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 13/12/2009 at 13:32
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the small roller idea is good but I have also then used a very expensive soft brush to just glide over to get rid of the stipple effect of the roller. You really are best with a warm, dry shop & dust free!
I once saw a car sprayed with blue dulux & the guy used loads of white spirit & lots of thin coats & its was the shinest car I have ever seen.
the double deckers used to be hand painted & the skill some of the painters had was just brill
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Don't forget preparation is really the key. If you don't pay meticulous attention to detail finish, ie masking off etc, then no matter how well you paint the car it will always look like a DIY job. Also for goodness sake, keep the local kids away until the paint is dry otherwise they will be tempted to see if the paint is dry and leave finger prints embedded in the paint.
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If you go down the cellulose route and you can get your hands on some (H&S have outlawed the stuff) then you have to be aware of the type of original paint because cellulose can react and cause a hell of a mess!
Preparation and cleanliness is the key. Depends on the finish you want and the value/type of vehicle. Good facilities, damage repair, surface prep, good primers and a reasonable spry gun are all key issues. Horizontal panels like bonnets are best sprayed vertical.
If you don't need the vehicle you can take your time and even work one panel at a time. Why not try your chosen route on one panel or source an old bonnet or door and have a practice?
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Forlkifts & many other plant are hand painted and the same rule applies they looked stunning when done you could not tell so give it a go preperation is the key.
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