Hi Long time ago I know did you ever find a solution ? Have similar probs Thanks

Well I have been chasing this type of issue on my 1.6 Fusion Auto 04 for quite some time. The problem is always either Throttle peddle or Throttle body. As you look around and touch things the fault goes so you think its maybe fixed. But then after any time it comes back. The worst issue is that limp mode is between 5 and 10mph. A terrible speed and no power to pull away. Getting home up a hill and it just about gets there at 5mph or less.

I had unplugged both parts and checked them out, refitted and this is when it sometimes fixes it but it always comes back.

I did get a used throttle body and fit with the usual result that fault goes away.

Last December it was permanent so following other threads I took the challenge to remove the ECU. Always disconnect battery before unplugging ECU. That means getting it out of the cradle while still plugged in. This is because it has a shear bolt in and therefore no head to get any tool onto it to unscrew the retaining bolt. So I drilled the centre of the bolt about 5mm or 6mm deep. Then hammered a torx bit into the bolt. Now able to unscrew the plug.

No visible water ingress or pin contact corrosion. Sprayed some contact cleaner and replaced. Fault cleared.

3-6 months later fault back. unplugged ECU, plugged back in and ok.

Last week after the car had been unused for aabout 4 days the fault came back, so very damp period which seems to be when it starts playing up. Unplugged again and checked all plugs etc on throttle body and pedal. All ok but still nothing working correctly.

Decided to place ECU in front of a heater to warm it up, well got it quite hot. Replaced and now can clear the management light. Started up with OBD monitor on and very poor running. Looked at throttle position and it was swinging wildly between 3 and 100% so clearly an issue. I just let the car warm up a little in tickover so the ECU could try to stablisie as it had been removed. It did stabilise on about 3.5% throttle but a fluke observation was as I got out of the car the throttle jumped up from 3.5 and then settled down. This happened a couple of times. Then it has settled and is fine. It has been a few days and now no issues again. I will continue to monitor throttle position with OBD just to see if I spot a problem creeping back before it fails again.

I have now also replaced the throttle pedal just so the easy parts have been swapped.

If it happens again my plan is to just put a heat gun onto the ECU and plug to slowly warm them up to see if the fault clears without any physical movement of parts.

It is really frustrating and I am glad I have the patience to look for the problem and can get the car running. The bad part is its my wife's car so she gets stuck and is worried in case it cuts out when pulling out into traffic. Has only happened once like this. If i wa spaying for diagnosis then it would probably be hundreds by now if not into a thousand.

Hope this helps others.

Well it failed again a few weeks ago and I managed to get some wiring diagrams that showed an in line connector between the throttle body and the ECU located on the side of the engine block, close to the ECU. Another between the throttle pedal and the ECU located behind the battery, has a 10mm bolt on top that holds it together. Both appeared ok and no dampness of signs of corrosion.
Then last week its failed again, P2176 and P2135. I am sure I also noted P0222. They are no loger appearing in the stored fault register, just pending faults.

I will look again at another throttle body and I am also looking at ECU's but the issue is either getting Ford to reprogram a replacement as I understand the key's transponder code is held in the ECU but some write up's also say there is another Body Control Module in the dashboard that does this.

Alternative here is to obtain ECU, keys with transpoders and the BCM (if it is required)

Be interested if anyone knows where the key transponder codes are stored, if there is a BCM that I have to obtain?

On the subject of looking at the ECU plug/socket solder connections then the ECU has the aluminium case edges folded over and no doubt glued/sealed as well making getting it apart quite a job and potential to cause damage.