I was wondering if anyone could help with the following:-
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(Apologies....a bit of a rambling story......)
'95 Xantia.....when starting 1st thing a.m., it takes a long time for the suspension to rise.(approx 1 minute)
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What happens is that the "stop" light stays on for approx 20 secs, during/after which the brakes do not work at all. (depressing the brake indeed re-illuminates the "stop" lamp)
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I pump the brake several times, and then the rear decides it wants to raise to the correct height.
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I then test brakes...eventually they "bite" voilently (probably on third attempt after previous pumping having seemed to kick the rear of the car into life).
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All is then absolutely fine.....ride is good, system remains pressurised throughout, until it has been resting overnight.
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This situation appears dangerous, but we have just got used to it over the past year, carefully testing brakes before moving off completely.
All 4 x corners are springy (spheres replaces over past cople of years).
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centre one in engine bay also replaced......have nil persistent ticking from pump.
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I removed filters/reservoir today, hoping to find filters clogged....they were really quite clean, despite my not having changed the LHM for 7 years!! (just a few black "gritty" looking bits)
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All washed in petrol thoroughly today, blown dry with hair-drier....re-assembled, filled with hydraflush....exercised to limits repeatedly, depressurising at lowest setting.
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The only sphere I haven't replaced is the rear middle....looked a pig to get at.
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I will test tomorrow a.m., but I am already convinced that I have not fixed the problem, in light of the clean filters.
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I would be grateful if anyone had any suggestions as to what the cause could be.
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Many thanks, Steve
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Check the rubber hose that feeds the hydraulic pump, sounds as though it could be sucking air, it cracks on the bend. Also check the pump belt for tightness.
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The rear middle sphere is the anti-sink sphere. It stops the rear of the car settling when you stop. If it has lost its pressure then the hydraulic pump has to reinstate that pressure before the rest of the suspension/braking system is pressurised. The hydraulic pump output is split with most of the output available for the steering and not much for the suspension and brakes. This accounts for the long time interval to obtain working brakes/suspension.
For the cost of the sphere, it is worth replacing it as a start.
Have a look at www.frenchcarforum for better advice.
hth
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Many thanks for your replies.
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The pump hose looks fine....the pump leaks very slightly, although not enough to drip.
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I bled all 4 x brakes last week....the last (OSR), was quite milky at 1st, then few bubbles.
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Find it hard to believe this could have made much difference, but things have improved now.
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From cold/rested, takes reliably 25 secs for STOP to extinguish....I immediately have good brakes, although steering can be a little stiff for the 1st minute.
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I have just got myself prepared to change the rear centre....have my sphere,9mm flare spanner (£5 from Halfords.....seems good quality), 4.5mm seal,penetrating oil, made a wrench from 1" square section 4' steel tube/6mm studding trick ("P" shape clamp)
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Also, as far as doing the rear sphere......if I raise the car to highest point to aid sticking trolley jack underneath/put axle stands under sills.....will the hydraulics de-pressurise sufficiently by subsequently putting on lowest setting/releasing 12mm bolt , despite rear of car being in the air?????
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Sorry so many questions.....I will put a lot of paper/plastic down, but don't really want LHM bath, and ruin my block-paved drive.
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Many tks, again, Steve
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>>From cold/rested, takes reliably 25 secs for STOP to extinguish....I immediately have good brakes, although steering can be a little stiff for the 1st minute.<<
That's just about the same as mine behaves. My steering is ok quicker than that,though.
When you raise the car to put the jack under, chock the front wheels as a secondary measure to the handbrake. Yes, the system will depressurise enough. Be aware that the front will sink and the car will pivot about the axle stands. It can take you by surprise the first time. You only need to undo the 12mm bolt a fraction of a turn. you will hear the residual pressure escape. Whatever you do don't remove it, a ball bearing gets displaced. Just "crack" the sphere joint with the tool then put a carrier bag or two over the sphere to help catch the LHM.
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"front will sink and the car will pivot about the axle stands"
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Presume that, as front lowers, car will pull stands forward slightly??
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If this is the case....would it be better to take handbrake off whilst lowering/de-pressurising, so front wheels can move rearward slightly as front lowers??
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I became used to strange jacking quirks with the Xantia....for example:-
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a) If use std jack to jack rear, when reaches the limit to enable stands to fit near jacking point, that last couple of inches involves the whole car drifting over to opposite side slightly resulting in scissor jack canted over at unconfortable angle.....panic...lower quickly...move foot of jack further in direction car moved.....repeat...no so bad...stuff stand under quickly!!
b) If jack front of car an usual point....the rear wheel will leave ground BEFORE the front!!
...is this just my car, or a feature of the Xantia??
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So....my drive is level.....if you think leaving the handbrake off will ease things when lowering, please let me know.
I will not blame you if all goes wrong.....
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Many tks your attention, Steve
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>>If jack front of car an usual point....the rear wheel will leave ground BEFORE the front!!
...is this just my car, or a feature of the Xantia??<<
Standard Xantia behavior, mine does it as well.
You are probably correct with your handbrake theory. You have the luxury of a level drive, mine's on a slope. I would be tempted to place some chocks either side of the front wheel leaving a gap for "some" movement but still acting as a restraint if needed.
The car tends to go from sitting flat on the top of the stands to sitting on the front end of the stands. This puts a point load on the jacking point.
Because the front goes down the car pivots about the jacking point and the back goes up. You don't need to have the stands as high as you think. This helps as well.
Let us know how you get on.
MJM
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Success!!!!!
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I see what people mean by patience unscrewing the 9mm nut.
Only tiny arcs possible, repeatedly flipping flare spanner, as other pipes in the way.
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All done...
No leaks..
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The puzzling thing is this:-
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On removal of the sphere, there was absolutely no leakeage at all/spurting LHM etc.
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Maybe diaphragm shot and old sphere full of oil.......stuck old and new on kitchen scales.
New was heavier than old!!!.
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Anyhow.....happy all sorted....will bleed rear brakes for final time now and see how things go.
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Many thanks all your time/advice to give me the confidence to have a crack at this.
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Rgds, Steve
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Hi Stevie.
Completely knocked out to read your fault/description !
I have PRECISELY the same symptoms on my 1998 xantia 1.8i estate !
Can't tell you how concerned I've been regarding brakes etc.
So far, no help or advice from anyone that helped. What was the result for you when you changed the centre sphere? Did that solve everything? I've only changed the two rear ones, so far. I don't think any of the professionals I've talked to even believed me ! Or maybe they thought I was just being a fussy git. Reading your stuff was a REAL Hallelujah moment.
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