My sons 110hp Toledo has started to play up a little.
It seems after about 15 minutes running that the temperature starts to rise and the heater goes cold.
He grabbed a thermostat today to exclude that, and as we speak he is trying to find where the thing goes.
I have a sneaky feeling that the water pump may be playing up, i wonder if this could be one of the plastic impeller jobbies.
The car has done about 115K i believe maybe more, and according to service history cam belt was changed at 70K ish, but we don't know if the water pump was upgraded at the time.
My question is, would the cambelt and water pump renewal be a reasonable job for the likes of me and he, i suppose we need to get a kit to lock the various moving parts.
We don't have a haynes for the car, but even if there isn't one for the Toledo, would one for a Leon do?
He was quoted about £350 for cambelt/pump/idler renewal by a well regarded indy, is that reasonable and would the knowledgable chaps here recommend us having a go instead?
Any thoughts please gentlemen?
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If the heater goes cold as the temprature rises, then this does sound like a pump fault. That said, if the impeller is spinning on the shaft, once the fault starts it does not come and go.
I would not recommend an a DIY job unless you have done lots of repair work on cars before. (I which case, have a look in a Haynes manual first.)
£350 sound reasonable. (Mess the job up and it will cost over £1,000) Did that include new engine mounting bolts and water pump?
Have you got the engine code for the Seat? (Some water pumps are driven externally)
Edited by tony@tooting on 18/11/2008 at 21:43
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Thanks T@T, i've done cambelts before, but some years since, i think my last diesel one was a mk 1 1600 golf, but there may be many more i've forgotten since.
Don't know about new mounting bolts, didn't know about that, but the price was for a complete job, pump/belt/idler.
Is it a special tool job for locking the cam, pump and crank in place, i daresay its too much to hope for that the belt and gears are pre marked like my old 244, those were the days...
Don't have an engine code at the moment, and the lads probably in bed as he's on earlies.
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GB,
After a quick look in the pump book, it looks like the non timing belt driven pump finished in 1999.
I stiil need the engine code to give fuller details on the timing belt time/tools, but would expect a book out time of 3 hrs.
New engine mounting stretch bolts are a must. Ensure the two long bolts that fix the mounting to the body, and the two that fit the mounting to the engine mount bracket are replaced.
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Update,
well the thermostat didn't cure the problem as expected, but its not the water pump either, following considerable water loss this morning we've found that the footwells are saturated and water is coming into the car from the lower heater vents.
Seems to be not so bad or even stops when the heater is turned off, so its probably either the heater radiator or the flow valve, car has climate (oh joy....).
Has anyone tried to get the heater radiator or even the climate control mechanism out, (car has sat nav in dash) we're probably going to wish it had been the water pump after all.
Does anyone know of the there being a regular failure point in the heater mechanism.
Anyone passing Northants on Saturday please wear ear plugs, you may learn a whole new vocabulary..;)
Thanks for the info T@T, thats noted for Spring when the cambelt was planned before this, assuming we can fix this leak.
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![2018 SEAT Toledo 1.0 TSI 110 Xcellence [EZ] 5dr](http://images.honestjohn.co.uk/imagecache/url/crop/90x60/https/assets.heycar.co.uk/t_default-export/f_auto/application_assets/images/holding.jpg)
