my car seems to be killing O2 sensors
cant think why it should...i havent used copper slip or silicone anywhere near the exhaust
Edited by Pugugly on 30/08/2008 at 21:26
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Lean mixture causing excess heat. Rich causing exess burning gases leaving the head. or you are lossing water/anitfreeze via combustion and that kills o2 sensors. Regards Peter
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no coolant loss
not really sure how i can check if its running too rich /lean ..the car did perform as it should with the new sensor fitted
im loathed to buy a new one incase it dies again
id imagine its something quiet bad to ruin a sensor so fast ?
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Just a thought. . . O2 sensors are very delicate and simply dropping one could stop it working???
There's also some good advice about Lambdas here:
www.picoauto.com/applications/lambda-sensor.html
Worth checking as many things you can and hopefully find the cause.
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I had repeated O2 sensor failure reported by the engine management system on my Vectra. I finally rang Frank Massey (01772 201597) to recommend a diagnostic expert in my area and they fixed it! It turned out to be a split vacuum hose, which Mr Massey had said he suspected it was when I contacted him. No wonder he's the best in the business!
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Is SL on holiday?
Trouble codes don't condemn components.
ECUs are fairly reliable but dumb pieces of kit. All they can say is whether a measurement value is outside an acceptable range, and set the appropriate trouble code. ECUs can't tell you WHY that measurement value is outside the range.
It might be that the sensor has truly failed, but, also; it might be that the exhaust gas the sensor is measuring is so rich, there's no oxygen there to measure; it might be that the wires from the sensor are rubbing through on a sharp piece of bodywork; it might be that the ECU is damaged, and is not reading the signal correctly.
There is every chance that the lambda sensor is actually OK, and the OP has replaced a succession of good sensors.
What the OP needs to do or to have done is to look at live data, and see if the lambda sensor voltage is changing back and forth, like it should, and to check that the mixture coming out of the tailpipe is not too rich, or too weak.
Air leaks - like the split vacum hose, and at the opposite end of the fuelling spectrum fuel injectors sticking open can lead to fuelling errors too large for the system to compensate for. The result will be a lambda sensor fault code, but, the lambda sensor is not actually at fault.
In both cases, the OP, and Archie, what is/was needed to fix the problems is a mechanic who looks just a little bit further than the fault code.
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steve
Rather large dollop of assumption going on here. If you aren't measuring the sensor's output; how do you know they're failing? Where are you getting them from?
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right , i took the car into a vw specialist friday
he tested ....
fuel regulator
all temp senders and the harness between them and the ecu
vac hoses
throttle switches
timing
earths for sensors /batt
the only way we could make it run reasonbly was to disconect the o2 sensor...i drove it home like it and smoked a little on hard acceleration then cleared after a while
when i got home i had a play with the multimeter and found the o2 was giving off the correct voltage swinging up /down ...i wriggled the harness and couldnt make it miss a beat
so ive hooked it back up and it seems back to normal now , so goodness knows whats happend , im thinking maybe a broken wire has been moved back into position or could a duff tank of fuel cause the sensor to throw a fit then clear up once the fuel is used , as this problem coincides with a fill up , on the way to the garage i filled up again so new fuel is getting through now
oh and the sensor on the car now is a bosch universal bought from ebay ...tempted to get a genuine one incase the universal doesnt cover the exact range for mine?
Edited by Webmaster on 31/08/2008 at 02:45
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A "Genuine Bosch" sensor from e-bay... I'll bet that Bosch had little to do with it...
When was the last time the supercharger was overhauled? Is it fouling the sensor with engine oil?
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supercharger is fine
dunno if its genuine or not , im leaning towards a vag one now
assuming it was a proper bosch universal , do you still think it might cause problems ? maybe not covering the exact range required?
are they like spark plugs for instance...any old spark plug will make a spark but only the proper one will run right ...or are they truley universal once the correct connector is swapped on
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How do you know the supercharger isn't bleeding oil? What oil do you use?
A genuine Bosch sensor would be as good as OE. No heat ranges on O 2 sensors.
95% of "Genuine Bosch" stuff on e-bay was made in China and is as fake as a £10 Rolex.
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i take the boost hoses off and check its clean in there...im well aware of charger problems
its fuch semi oil from gsf...correct grade but i dont recall what it is off hand
if the sensor is fake ..would it still give the proper readings im getting on the voltmeter? sort of suggests its working somewhere like it should to me
what multimeter reading would you expect on a dud/broken /fake one...do they just give out a constant voltage instead of the up/down of a working item
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That does seem to eliminate the supercharger.
A fake sensor can do almost anything - then stop - start again - refuse to read at all - read wrong - stay in the centre - then work fine again.
What were they reading when they had "failed?"
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i havent taken a reading in failed mode yet ...ive got the meter in the car now s if it does play i'll see whats happening
i half thought about getting a cheap a/f gauge to display if the o2 is cylcing , but then thats half the price of a vag sensor
do you think the fact it coincided with a recent fill up and went away after id used that fuel might be to blame?
edit ...oh i meant to say that the ebay sensor had some bosch contact details on the box and a hologram, you went on some site and entered a number from that holgram and it said its a genuine one ?? might have still been knocked around etc i dunno
Edited by steveo3002 on 31/08/2008 at 10:02
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I know this a bit late..
It could be that the vac hose from the ECU to the back of the throttle body is leaking/perished/incorrect length - it needs to be 1m long or it can make the car run bad.
Any G60 info ask away here - www.dubforce.net/forums/index.php?showforum=50
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yeah the hose is spot on , im a member on dubforce already
seems okay now ? recon it was dodgy fuel or a broken bit of the loom
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I've got a £10 "Tag-Heuer"-keeps excellent time.
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I've got a £10 "Tag-Heuer"-keeps excellent time.
I'm guessing that those who spend thousands on a genuine Rolex aren't doing it just to tell the time...
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My sister-in-laws husband has a genuine Breitling watch. (2K...) Only had it 3 three years and had to be sent away for repair twice.
My £8.00 watch from Argosi still works great after 12 years! So much for genuine quality!
As for VW lambda sensors, I'd only ever fit OE.
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