Ramp recommendations? - FotheringtonThomas
I may need to buy a pair of ramps.

Screwfix £37 delivered.
Sealey CAR2000 about £44 delivered.


Are there any others in a similar price range? What to look for? Can anyone here recommend anything?

Edited by FotheringtonThomas on 24/07/2008 at 15:52

Ramp recommendations? - caine
Sure I saw them in Car Mechanics on test/review this month
Ramp recommendations? - piston power
E bay have plenty or car boot sales £5-10 a pair.
Ramp recommendations? - FotheringtonThomas
I was really after a recommendation (or "it doesn't matter, they're all the same") - no time to go to car boot sales, etc.!
Ramp recommendations? - Pugugly
Delivery then is the deciding factor - Screwfix is very good !
Ramp recommendations? - FotheringtonThomas
A motor factor will do me a pair of "Cougar" ramps, £24 for "narrow", £30 for "wide". I have never heard of this sort. Anyone?
Ramp recommendations? - mjm
F T,
The Car Mechanics test referred to above has some Cougar CR/2 ramps on test. They are listed at 175mm wide, the narrowest in their test. They didn't score very highly, with a tendency to skid ahead of the wheels. The best of the budget, occaisional use type were the Halfords ones at £33. They are 200mm wide. They didn't skid as badly as the Cougars. The prices then jump up to £70/80 ish. Then they start getting silly if you just want something for the odd job.

This fuel tank may turn out to be an expensive job :)

Post back if you want more info.
Repairs/Ramp recommendations? - FotheringtonThomas
This fuel tank may turn out to be an expensive job :)


I am rather peeved. I have spend a short while re-inforcing some pallets, which *may* be used to raise the car a bit. Ramps, hmm. Quite possible. There are, unfortunately, other problems:


Brake pipes. Presumably not too bad to do, the Motor Factor will make them, presumably re-using my "ends". Go to Motor Factor on bicycle, come back with yards of pipe. £25-ish. Self to fit.

Rear of n/s sill, hole, needs a bit of weld. Guess.... £100. Sound right? I can't do this.

Rear box. £45, new, delivered. Self to fit.

Petrol tank. £65, new, delivered. Self to fit.


What's that, £235-ish, + sundries, say £250. Is it worth it, I wonder. Money is very much an issue, "I'm on me uppers". I could probably get £75 for the thing, scrap. I'd possibly rather fix it, & know what I've got. Hm. Any thoughts? Should this post be re-titled/threaded?

Another glass, I think, and a ponder.
Repairs/Ramp recommendations? - mjm
Would it be possible to borrow some axle stands? you can get more height than ramps and they are less intrusive than ramps on working room. (You can also jack and block up and jack a bit further, if you see what I mean). (£30 saved?)

Brake pipes, if you really want to keep the original ends then I would start with penetrating oil now. Then when the dirty deed has to be done, cut the pipe and use a ring spanner or six sided socket on the ends to give yourself a good start on getting them apart without damage. Take the main bit and the cut bit to the factors. (Don't have the odd inch or two added to the length, it makes them a sod to fit!)

Welding, most time is spent on preparation. Get the area around the hole as clean and prepared as possible. Clear as much away from the area as possible. (Carpet, insulation etc.) Try to get it so that the welder has to just pick up the patch, tack it in place and then finish welding it (£50 saved?)

Now possible down to £170ish

If the rest of the car is a known factor, as far as possible, only you can really know if it's worth it.

(Written after a glass or two of Scotlands 8 year old water of life)
Repairs/Ramp recommendations? - FotheringtonThomas
>>jack and block up and jack a bit further if you see what I mean). (£30 saved?)

I know what you mean. I can jack/block the thing, and lower it to rest on the re-inforced pallets, + a bit of 9"x3" from side to side resting on old wheels, etc. Perhaps ramps micht "come in" in future. I'll sleep on it.
Brake pipes if you really want to keep the original ends


My assumption, that the MF would want to re-use 'em.
then I would start with penetrating oil now.


I have some gas (a "turbo torch"), possibly useful, but no penetrating oil.
Then when the dirty deed


Oh dear. My hands! Dirt?!?!
has to be done cut the pipe


Bolt cutters, perhaps.
and use a ring spanner or six sided socket on the ends


K.
(Don't have the odd inch or two added to the length it makes them a sod to fit!)


I shall bear that in mind, and refrain from further comment.
Welding ... preparation. ... clean and prepared as possible ... welder has to just
pick up the patch tack it in place and then finish welding it (£50 saved?)


That would be very helpful.
only you can really know if it's worth it.


Sigh. Yes. I've been offered a "P" Escort for £400, but - an unknown quantity. P'raps I'll see it. Failing all else, it's the "metal recycler" next Thu.
Scotlands 8 year old water of life)


I will sleep on this matter. Another tin or beer to finish. I could use the tin to block up the hole in the back box. It might last long enouh for the MOT (10 mins).
Repairs/Ramp recommendations? - RichardW
If you buy new pipes you will get new ends - they're only pence and won't be rusty and rounded off - they're often bigger AF than the OE fit ones, so less likely to round off anyway.

Whereabouts are you? If you're near Glasgow, I've got ramps / stands you could borrow - and I could probably weld a patch on the sill for a few beer tokens... :-))
Repairs/Ramp recommendations? - caine
All becomes clearer.No ramps.dodgy,they can roll off.jack and block front then back until you can get scafold battons/8/2 wood or similar running from jacking points front to back then jack up battons/car safely blocking wheels as u go.You can get some fairly scary angles this way.keep juggling it untill the underside is about 2 foot up.prop and block with wood or concrete blocks or combination.Drown tank securing bolts/straps in penetrating oil.remove brake pipes by sniping pipe(I use electritians snips) as close to nut as possible,remove nut with a socket,6 point for preference,less chance of rounding off union,Now,pipes,MF will do them,ANY backstreet garage will do them.dont reuse ends.more trouble than they are worth,but tape them to the relevant ends so they dont get mixed up when whoever makes new ones.Most problems happen when the bleed nipple on relevant brake shears off,This will stop u dead!Make sure it is free FIRST.Back to the tank,If its leaking then nobodys going to weld a sill,do it next.Welding,clean/grind 150mm/6" around hole.remove carpets/sill trims/or anything that could burn.Make a plate of new/clean steel an hammer/bend fit as good as you can then drive round ur local backstreet garages at about 11 in morning and ask how much for cash to weld this on(near lunch break see!)remember no points lost for ugly,just has to be safe and pass mot.