Be a little careful with the copperslip and torquing here guys. Torque figures are usually given for clean, unlubricated threads. Using lubrication on the threads can result in overtightening. Provided the threads are in good condition (ie clean, dry plugs screw in fully by hand), I'd be inclined to use copperslip only on the taper seat and the last couple of threads.
I believe one problem with these plugs is the current service intervals. I've never had any problems in the past on Fiestas, but that was in the days of contact breaker points and regular ignition system maintenance. I removed the plugs at least once every 6 months. Maybe a regular removal could still prevent the problem occuring? As it seems particularly a Ka phenomenon, also I wonder if these have a problem with water and road spray ingress to the engine compartment. Perhaps a spray shield could be fabricated to keep the area dry?
Regards
John S
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As it seems particularly a Ka phenomenon, also I wonder if these have a problem with water and road spray ingress to the engine compartment.
I've just seen it on a Fiesta.
An HJ approved garage couldn't get a plug out. I soaked in in Plus Gas and removed it two hours later with a satisfying cracking noise!
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Parp, Parp!
Note: All Toad posts come with an implied smiley.
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Toad
Yes, I didn't say it was unique to the Ka, just that they seemed particularly affected.
As for the garage, it just makes you think that the 'traditional' methods of approaching such problems seem to have died out!
Regards
John S
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Toad Yes, I didn't say it was unique to the Ka, just that they seemed particularly affected. As for the garage, it just makes you think that the 'traditional' methods of approaching such problems seem to have died out!
- He does have a great reputation locally but he *hadn't* done the valve clearences or got the plug out. Also he gave her a list of 5 jobs including things like leaking rear brake cylinders.
I felt these things needed doing urgently and told her so. She phoned for further details (much of what he'd said in writing was ambiguous to an amateur like me). When it was clear someone else would be doing the work he changed his mind and of the 5 jobs only one really needed doing. Leaking rear brake cylinders is surely not a grey area.
That said I feel he is the best of a bad lot. He resolved an engine related problem that had me stumped.
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Parp, Parp!
Note: All Toad posts come with an implied smiley.
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"As for the garage, it just makes you think that the 'traditional' methods of approaching such problems seem to have died out!"
??
Would that be as in genuinely knowing when a wallop with a 2lb ball pein hammer is required, with the ability to do it accurately?
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FiF
Possibly, with the emphasis on 'ability to do it accurately'.
The key message is that in the circumstances, most people I know would have tried Toads method, and many of them would have had a feel for when they were pushing too hard on the bar, and should let it soak longer.
I haven't heard if anyone has sucessfully used the welding torch approach on these plugs yet!
Too much emphasis these days on 'plugging it in to the computer'!
Regards
John S
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Has the Ford crossflow always used taper seat plugs, or is it just the more recent versions? I can't remember, since it's a long time since I last owned a crossflow engined Ford. Sometimes Ford take cost saving to extremes - doing away with the sealing washer must save them a fraction of a penny per plug, and leaving off the bright plating about the same. I know Ford get through a lot of plugs, but this kind of cost cutting is still a bit silly.
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com
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Richard
I believe the Fiesta Valencia engine has used these taper seat plugs since 1976.
Desparately trying to remember if the Escort cross flow (1968 on, and a slightly different engine) used them. I believe not, but someone will soon tell me!
Regards
John S
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If this is the old Anglia 105E engine, I am sure that the plugs were not tapered on that version.
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If this is the old Anglia 105E engine, I am sure that the plugs were not tapered on that version.
THe Endura E is 105E engine also known as the spanish engine or the Valencia engine.
The Fiesta plugs didn't *look* tapered. How obvious is it? I didn't want to say anything before in case I got laughed at!
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Parp, Parp!
Note: All Toad posts come with an implied smiley.
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No, this isn't the 105E Anglia engine, but a development of it.
The '68 cross flow Escort used a 5 bearing block, similar to the 5 bearing 1500 Cortina engine which was itself a development of the 3 bearing 105E (997) and 113E (1200 and 1340) blocks. The 1100 and 1300 Escort placed a 'new' cross flow head on this block, and I believe used 'normal' plugs. Both were 'combustion chamber in piston' designs with the original 1100 using a completely flat head, and the 1300 a head with a small combustion chamber. Later 1100's adopted this approach.
The Fiesta Valencia engine is visually similar, but actually quite different. In 1100 form it reverted to a diferent block casting with a 3 bearing crank, although I believe the 1300's had a 5 bearing crank. The combustion chamber in piston idea was dropped (pistons were too heavy). Heads too were completely different castings (valve positions were different to the Escort cross-flows, so watch it when you do the tappets), and the taper seat plugs appeared.
Now, where did I put my anorak..........
Regards
John S
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Toad
A conventional plug uses a flat seat and a washer to seal the plug to the head. The seat is at 90 degrees to the axis of the plug.
If you look at the Fiesta plugs, you'll see there is no washer and the section above the threads that contacts the head is not a right angles to the axis of the plug, but at about 45 degrees to it. That's the 'taper seat'. This wedges into the head, and provides the seal without a washer.
Regards
John S
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Toad A conventional plug uses a flat seat and a washer to seal the plug to the head. The seat is at 90 degrees to the axis of the plug. If you look at the Fiesta plugs, you'll see there is no washer and the section above the threads that contacts the head is not a right angles to the axis of the plug, but at about 45 degrees to it. That's the 'taper seat'. This wedges into the head, and provides the seal without a washer.
Thanks for sorting that out in my head! The idea of a tapered thread seemed unworkable to me!
Thanks also for detaining the differences between the 105E and the Valencia! I blame 'Autocar' for that error...
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Parp, Parp!
Note: All Toad posts come with an implied smiley.
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"The idea of a tapered thread seemed unworkable to me!"
Sorry Toad, you can have a tapered thread. The valves on high pressure gas cylinders eg Oxygen bottles usually have a tapered thread between the valve and the gas bottle itself.
There are close(ish) tolerances on both male/female threads, the male thread is wrapped in PTFE tape (not for certain gases I forget which) and the valve is screwed in to a preset torque. The brass threads crush into the steel threads and form a seal. Therefore it works on a one time use basis only, at least for the valve of course.
Hope that does not unsort your head too much.
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Stuart
Not to mention BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper) threads as commonly used for gas pipes, plugs etc. BSPT threaded plugs are (were) common as gearbox and back axle drain and level plugs on British cars. The Minor certainly uses them. In such applications PTFE tape allows reuse of the same plug.
Regards
John S
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John,
Ah yes forgotten about that, and of course the US equiv NPT as I recall.
Cheers,
Stuart
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And then there are the NPTF (National Pipe Taper Fuel) plugs going into NPSI (National Pipe Straight Intermediate) tappings, as used on American influenced cars, possibly including Fords, and known collectively as Dryseal Threads.
Do I get that anorak or am I still in line behind John S?
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FiF, You just beat me to it! Drat, I really wanted that anorak.
More seriously (but admittedly of incredibly little interest!), Perkins found that Dryseal threads almost never needed a sealant whereas BSP almost always did. We changed from BSP to Dryseal on new engine designs for this reason in the 1950s.
There are some instances where a sealant is deemed wise even with Dryseal and this is provided in the form of a pre-applied patch of PTFE. The PTFE is applied to the thread as an emulsion and the component then goes through a warming process to drive off the water. Components with PTFE patches can be re-used, typically up to five times, before sealant renewal becomes advisable.
Not many people know that! And perhaps even less wanted to!
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If you had access to machine shop facilities, presumably you could have some little tapered rings turned up, so that you could use conventional spark plugs in the Ford engine. That would solve the problem nicely - all you need is a plug with the right heat range and reach.
I'm too lazy to exploit this idea, and I don't fancy the idea of driving around in a pushrod engined Ford for 30,000 miles to make sure it works, but if anyone else wants to pick it up and make their fortune out of it, just send me a crate or two of beer when you've made your first profit.
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com
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Dizzy,
The anorak is all yours as you named the threads correctly, not my shorthand. Though I cannot remember where American Standard Taper comes in, just one bit of something stored away, goodness knows why.
One blue anorak complete with fur lined hood on its virtual way...........now!
Funnily enough, there is a third thread which was a DIN standard, and I assume the BS.21 and the DIN?? are combined in an ISO standard somewhere nowadays. (ISO ????) Do I have to fight you for that anorak dependant upon who finds it first?
Anyway as I recall we had more leaks on the American threads than on BS or DIN threads. Can't remember the reason today though.
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FiF, we really must stop this! But first ...
I'm sure there must be a DIN and and ISO standard, though I never came across them. We didn't use DIN for much, other than metric cup plugs (core plugs). We also used DIN for a while for tubes obtained from Germany because British Steel took rather a long while to get into metric. They once answered an enquiry on this by telling me that "metric tubes are now available from us in the following sizes: 12.7, 15.88, 19.05 ..." !!
Can't understand why you had more leaks with American threads than with BS. Most leak problems are between the crest and root of the thread, not via the flank, and the American threads were better in this respect - less truncation I think. Perhaps you were using NPSM (National Pipe Straight Mechanical) which are, as the name suggests, intended only for mechanical, not sealing, use. Strangely, I would love to hear from you if you remember any details!
Apologies to all other Backroomers for this boring nonsense, with the exception of Alvin who has just posted a response that must be a leading contender for the anorak that I had hoped to qualify for. ;-)
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Dizzy,
No we were definitely using 3/4" NPT, it was actualy on high pressure gas cylinders to US DOT standard.
Exact details escape me, I think it was a fault in our screwing technique. (Toad of Toad Hall, quiet at the back, please!)
Spent many happy hours staring into one of those projection scopes in metrology examining thread profiles and so on. What I do remember was that the setting of the reamer tool was important so you didnt ask the tap to do too much work, and that there were better results from one tool manufacturer than another. Also the tightening torque setting was critical. In the end it was sorted and 100% reliability obtained.
Can I hang my anorak up now, its getting a bit old and worn, not like that nice new one you got yesterday, I'm really rather envious!
Cheers all
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Actually Dizzy your comment about British Steel tubes reminds me of a story about a company in the Midlands, now closed of course, who sent one of the salesmen off to Russia with the admonishment, "and for God's sake don't come back with another order for 1 inch as the last was a nightmare."
Salesman comes back proud as punch having booked a mega order.
"It better not be for 1 inch." says the gaffer.
"Of course not," says super sales man, "its for 25.4 mm!" DOH!
Notice: all events in this story relating to individuals living or dead are completely true. And no it wasn't me, just in case you were thinking, I'm stupid but not that stupid.
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I went into a hardware shop and asked for a 6 foot length of timber.
"Sorry, we sell it in metric now" I was told.
"OK, I'll have a 2 metre piece, then"
"Right, sir, it's 80p per foot, so six and a half feet will be £5.20"
DOH!
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FiF, this is definitely going to earn me that virtual anorak ...
The male thread for that gas cylinder job was almost certainly NPTF and should have been gauged in two ways according to the SAE standard (J476a?). The first thing that is checked is the 'gauge line' dimension, this being the point along the thread, measured from the leading end, where resistance is first felt when the component is hand-screwed into a threaded test gauge. Most component machinists carry out this check.
The second test, which is often missed out by machinists, is to check that the taper continues for the full length of the thread. If this is not so, ie. the taper falls off, the threaded part of the component can become barrel-shaped and so the load applied by the thread as the component is screwed in will be concentrated over a very small area, leading to thread-rolling of the mating part. In other words, the thread in the mating part will simply give way rather than exert a resistance, and the result is a loose or leaking component.
That second test would usually be carried out by viewing the component in one of those instruments that you mentioned, a projection scope ('shadowgraph'). As you also said, tightening torque is critical. We specified up to three different tightening torques for the same component, depending on the material that it was going into (cast iron or aluminium) and, for aluminium, whether the tapping was in a raised boss or in a solid wall.
And if you've got this far without nodding off - well done!
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Dizzy,
Gauging technique spot on. Shadowgraph only used for setting up though.
In case anyone else is interested to put it in non techy terms you have two hand gauges. A screwed gauge which is screwed into the thread by hand until it stops without any real torque being applied. There are two reference calibration steps on the gauge the position of these being referenced to the end face. One step should be inside beyond the face, the second should be outside.
The second gauge is a tapered truncated cone, again with two gauge steps, and this should fit snugly, again one reference step inside the face and one outside and, most importantly, without any wobbling. I'm not sure if wobbling is an engineering term but the best I can think of. If the thread passes both those inspections its OK.
Oh and that DIN spec is DIN 477 by the way. eg 28.8 DIN477 is a typical gas bottle thread. I'm sure I've seen an EN ISO standard somewhere, maybe its just in draft.
Now someone might ask what all this has to do with motoring?
Well this is the sort of guff that will be relevant with hydrogen fuelled cars, especially considering that you are carrying a pressure vessel in your car and one subject to HSE Explosives approvals. Its also relevant today with LPG fuelled vehicles, but we are into a whole new ball game re different sorts of prssure vessels and different threads as the risk factor is so much lower with LPG and I don't want to go down that avenue, please......please!
Is that back on topic finally?
Cheers all, and fanks for da memories.
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John,
BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper)?
Not to sure about that although you could be right. I was in the trade and it was always referred to as BSP thread. The (T) I always thought to mean thread.
From when Adam was a lad everything related to pipe thread was BSP and is still in full use today.
they were referred to as taper and parallel.
All steel pipework (up to 6" although the larger sizes were usually flange welded) was done in taper and the joint made using boss white and hemp in my early days and later ptfe tape.
Parallel thread was used on unions or similar where it wasn't actually making a joint but was actually pulling two faces together to make the joint.
Where the pipwork in your house joins to a tap for instance a loose union nut is used to pull the washered joint up against the tap threads which are today and always have been BSP pararrel.
The dies on pipe threading machines are always BSP taper but we also had block dies for hand use which were pararrel thread and were used to thread steel rod to fit munsen ring brackets which support steel pipe in industrial applications.
In domestic applications with copper tube many manufacturers use BSP pararrel for compression joints including Conex and are popular with Plumbers as one end can be used for connecting into a female bsp thread albeit with a bit more care with the sealing.
I believe BSP is used across the world including the USA for pipework even today.
alvin
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Surely, another anorak will be well deserved by whoever explains what a "running joint" is/was. (It's got nothing to do with leaks ) Unfortunately, my hemp has now gone all "knotty" and my Boss White has set solid.
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John,
After that anorak...... but don't you mean a long thread or running thread as it was called for steel pipework???.
If so they were superseded by unions (navy).
Formerly when two steel threaded (bsp) pipes came together and needed to be jointed a short section of steel pipe was cut with a long thread at one end and a normal one at the other.
The short thread went into a socket fixed to one end of the pipe in the normal manner.
The long thread was fitted with a socket backed up with a locknut.
This was aligned with the other end of the pipe and screwed tightly up.
The other side of the socket was backed up by the locknut with jointing material in between.
Usually making them was given to apprentices who had nothing better to do than stand around talking about Elvis Presley and Radio Luxembourg.
Is this what you mean by running joint John.
ALvin
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Alvin, John,
Or could 'running joint' have something to do with joining lead pipes?
And isn't there a 'running bend' where one of the arms of a T-piece or elbow comes in at an acute angle?
I'm not sure about either of these - I haven't done much central heating work since I fell through the ceiling of my brother's house. Actually, I didn't fall right through - I slipped off a joist and both legs went through, one each side of the joist. Luckily we already had children.
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Dizzy,
Don't think John means that. The T-piece you mention was called either an oblique or obtuse if my memory serves me.
Could he mean the poured lead and caulking method on cast iron water mains of decades ago.
Hope your legs are better now.
I can almost feel the quality of my anorak already.
We are a long way from KA spark plugs but never mind.
alvin
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Similar to my soldering flux which had not been opened for many years. I thought your hemp and boss white sounded very painful until I read Dizzy's central heating faux pas.
Keep taking the tablets
Bfn Phil I
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I hope the "Foreman" does not think that us with the grey hair (or none at all), are not being too flippant within this hallowed list but, if we can't have a little bit of nostalgia for the days when engineering was a bit more than just fitting new parts, it's a bit sad. Alvin gets the anorak and his explanation of that, pre union method, of joining two fixed pipes, was a textbook description Dizzy's comment on the lead pipe was, of course, a remembrance of the "wiped " joint, blowlamp, tallow pad etc etc. ( Can,t say much more, the Zimmer frame needs a service).
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The "Foreman" is too busy wondering whatever happened to his three spanner sets - Metric, AF & Whitworth (sp?)....
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Seeing the 'Foreman' mention his Whitworth spanner set, a virtual beer for anyone who knows why a, say, 3/16" W spanner actually fits a 1/4" W bolt?
Regards
John S
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John,
May be miles off as to why you use one size below in spanners with whitworth.
But...I do remember as a lad asking this and an old fella telling me something about a wartime material saving plan having had something to do with this. He may well have been talking about the great war as I actually worked with one or two who had been in this. very long shot this one John.......
I must ask this in return. Does anyone know what a Taylor ring is and much more difficult... where did the name come from?.
And to keep the motoring link I must produce my favourite party stopper which never fails to bring glazed looks.
What does SU stand for in relaton to SU carburettors.
alvin
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"And to keep the motoring link I must produce my favourite party stopper which never fails to bring glazed looks.
What does SU stand for in relaton to SU carburettors.
Desperate attempt to wrench an anorak, any anorak, from Dizzy's and Alvin's grasp.
Skinners Union ??
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Alvin
Take a virtual beer!
Yes, bolt heads were reduced in size to cut steel usage after WW1. Never been changed back since.
What worries me more is that an old fella told you. Well, I'm past 50, but don't feel like an old fella yet.
SU - easy! Skinners Unit after the original designer.
Taylor Ring. Hmmm. I think that the name used for metallic , rather than rubber 'O' ring seals. Can't be named after Taylor, can it? That's too easy.
Regards
John S
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"SU - easy! Skinners Unit after the original designer.
Perhaps not so easy after all. ;-)
sure about the unit bit John?
Skinners = name of leatherworker who diversified IIRC, we are agreed on that at least .
Stuart
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can I have my anorak now sir!
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Its on its way FIF, Keep your eye open for the man from Consignia.
alvin
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Stuart
Well, the brain cells are aging!
OK so what does CD stand for on a Stromberg CD carb?
Regards
John S
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Nope, I know when I'm beaten.
Refuse to cheat and look on net for an answer.
Slinks away, looks longingly at new anorak catalogue. :'-(
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Constant Depression I think - appropriate if you ever tried to get a Stromberg-equipped V8 Land Rover to idle smoothly.
OK anoraks, try this: Which British designed family saloon was sold under seven different manufacturer's names, including Plymouth and VW?
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com
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Richard, please put me out of my misery and tell us what the car was that sold under seven different names.
I liked the 'constant depression' quip! Would you agree that the Stromberg CD was a poor copy of the SU?
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Hillman Avenger! Also sold in the UK as a Sunbeam, then Chrysler and finally Talbot, in the US (Plymouth Cricket), in Brazil (Dodge 1800/Polara) and in Argentina, bizarrely, as the VW 1500. The anorak is mine.....
As for Strombergs, IIRC they came about because BMC bought SU, leaving Triumph (at that time independent) without a supplier of suitable carburettors. So Triumph asked Zenith to come up with a design which worked in the same way as the SU, but avoided infringing any patents. Hence that rubber diaphragm which always splits on ageing Strombergs. I have no idea who Mr (Herr?) Stromberg was.
I have always found the early carbs (Triumph Herald / 2000 and others) easy to set up, although the needles seem to wear more than SUs. But the later carbs had various emissions devices attached, and they changed the external mixture adjustment for a much less convenient design. However, the SU design was also spoiled by emissions devices, and the later HIF carbs were just as bad as the late Strombergs.
The SU is more compact and easier to work on, but the Stromberg has a better fuel enrichment device - the sliding jet in the SU tends to wear and ends up leaking fuel, which is bad news as most SU-equipped cars have the exhaust manifold on the same side as the intake.... In terms of quality of materials and general durability, I don't think there's a lot in it (apart from the rubber diaphragm, which costs very little to replace).
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com
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Richard,
Go on then what about the Hillman Hunter? I don't know the answer just interested as that would have been my guess if pushed to give an answer.
Remember the export job with kits of parts to be assembled in Iran? I seem to remember one of their engineers recalling all the hassle they had saying it would have been cheaper to give them away rather than try and sell 'em. Makes you wonder what went on.
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FiF
The Hunter was only sold under six names that I can think of - Hillman, Humber, Singer, Sunbeam and Chrysler (all in the UK) and then as the Peykan in Iran. It didn't survive long enough to carry the Talbot badge. I'm pretty sure the Avenger holds the record, unless anyone knows better.
Isn't the human memory a wonderful thing? All this information is of no use to anyone, but my mind has stored it away just in case I ever need to bore people to death. Yet I can't remember the PIN number for any of my credit cards....
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com
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Richard, thanks for the info about the Hillman Avenger and the carburettors. Fascinating stuff!
I have only come across one Plymouth Cricket, owned by a chap down the road from where I used to live. This car was a left-hand-drive automatic (Borg Warner 65 I think) and was fitted with twin Stromberg carbs. The owner came to borrow some tools from me to remove the cylinder head. I offered to give him a hand and, as we walked down the road, I asked him what had happened. He said it was running rough and when he started up that morning he saw water droplets coming out of the exhaust so he knew the head gasket had blown. You've guessed already - all it needed was a new diaphragm in one of the carburettors!
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Just finished the beer John and very nice too.
This old fella was 67 and I was working for him at the time as an apprentice. He had been a Sergeant in the Great war and the number of times he told us that he had been court martialled for flogging the horses as he attempted to rescue artillery pieces from advancing Germans. To make matters worse he would act the proceedings as it happened, standing to attention in front of the court and repeating his evidence, then becoming the prosecuting Officer with a change of accent.
Woe betide any apprentice who let a smile cross his face and the trick was to cover your face with your hands in dismay at the injustice of his treatment. Happy ending though with case dismissed and later a commendation. What characters...
So you don't rate as an old fella yet John but the thought just struck me that in another three years I will be his age.
Yes.. skinners union is the answer but you fellas would spoil my party piece by coming up with these quick answers.
alvin
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John,
Taylor rings.
Yes they are metallic and named from a man named Taylor.
They are commonly used as the gasket between industrial steel pipework flanges and you will no doubt have seen them.
Brass coloured and resemble the bottom of a large cocoa tin or similar (corrugated) with the a circular hole cut in the centre obviously.
They are slid in between the mating flanges with jointing compund on and bolted together.
However the story of how they came about is most interesting.
Some decades ago one of HMPs warships had an emergency at sea with an high pressure steam leak between flanges and no gasketing material. A Chief Artificer Taylor cut the bottom out of a large round tin and used it to make the joint.
I can't corroborate this story but it is the common version and they are still sold in thousands and called taylor rings.
alvin
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Alvin, am I right when I say, as others have done, that the name SU came from Skinners Union ? However, I always thought that the Skinners bit came from the leather Company, Lilley & Skinner,(They made high class shoes and handbags)and in order to get an effective seal between the piston and the bore of the SU dashpot, a fine leather seal was let into the grooved piston and the leather was supplied by L & S. Don't tell me I'm wrong, I've told this to thousands of people over the years and, at my age, I have'nt got time to change my story.
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John, You are certainly right about the SU being Skinners Union and I do recall when first hearing it that the leather was used as the seal exactly as you describe.
Regarding whether it was Lilley and Skinner I cannot say, but it certainly sounds right and I will personally add this to my repertoire and mention this when next I am boring the pants (no sexual connotations please) off my victims.
And in keeping with the popular press... never let the truth stand in the way of a good story.
And you know John the more I look at your version the more certain I am that you are totally correct and already this is implanted into my memory bank to be handed down.
Tough but the anorak had prematurely gone to FIF.
alvin
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Alvin,
Have a look at the link I posted, it confirms the Lilley & Skinner bit....
A wayward son who didn\'t like the family business, if I remember correctly.
M.
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John, yes Marks link confirms it categorically and you can rest easy in continuing to use it.
How do you find them Mark??.
alvin
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John, Alvin Dizzy et al
Isn't a 'running joint' also known as a 'swept tee'?
Dizzy, we too had problems getting BS 3601/3602 steam pipe in the UK (bizarre isn't it?), and ended up using the ANSI equivalent. Much cheaper and more easily available. Why - because it's the standard used in oil refineries (motoring link) most of which had American parent companies.
Regards
John S
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Swept Tee and Wiped Joint ... yes, it comes back to me now.
And the "running" thing I was thinking of was Running Outlet, the bit that that joins two lengths of house gutter together and has an outlet in the middle of it for a downpipe.
Likewise, apologies to the Foreman for letting this thread go adrift from the intended topic.
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Dizzy
I've never used wiped joints in plumbing, but I've used it in bodywork repairs.
'Leading' is the most reliable way of filling joints between panels or filling where a repair section has been let in. Plastic filler tends to crack at such points, but if used sparingly over the lead just to finalise the contour, it's fine. Just remember to wear a mask and shape the lead with hand, and not power, tools!
Leading was used in the factory on the body work joints on many cars. One excellent example is Jaguar, but its use wasn't restricted to 'high end' cars. Mk 2's, for example, appear to have a totally 'joint-free' bodywork, due to extensive use of the technique. Given the current safety concerns, I wonder If I could still by sticks of the stuff?
Regards
John S
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Strangely addictive this thread - especially to someone who hasn't a clue what you are talking about! However, I seem to have lost it now (the will to live that is, not the thread!!!)
PhilW
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Well,
Taper thread spark plugs, ancient engine and all, I am really looking forward to picking up our new toy, a 98 S-Reg Ka3 with air con next week.
And even though its only done 10K miles I'll be getting it serviced straight away. New plugs (if they'll come out obviously), new oil etc.. and a few long journeys and it'll be a treat.
Cheers from Jase
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Just bought a new one;excellent car.
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Dizzy & John, swept tee. This is a tee piece which differs from the normal equal one as it is swept just before entering the body.
But the threaded outlets are all 90 degrees to each other and not oblique. Would be used on a heating circuit to give uninterrupted flow without the liquid having to strike the back of the tee causing turbulence and noise.
Also on steam pipes to prevent erosion and perhaps cavitation on condense pipes near a condense pump.
alvin
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