Hi all
I've just found the source of an oil leak on my sump. It has a small pin hole in the bottom of my sump and Vaux want £117 + VAT for a new sump!
Anyone know where I can source a replacement, or advise on a fix on my original sump? I don't think a breakers yard will sell me a sump off a good engine and e-bay haven't got any as well.
Any advice would be appreciated?
GazKaz
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years ago I mended my sump with i'sopon', you need to drain it first. Or braze it , but take it off first! Depends on how bad it is, then paint it to stop it happening again.
My mate's Vauxhall needed a new sump (astra) and it cost him double that, so you have a bargain- is that price fitted though?
so Vauxhall's still rust ?, somethings you can depend on.
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Hi TurboD
If I've got to take off the sump to repair it from the inside I may be thinking of putting on a new one! I wanted to see if there's a way of repairing it from the outside. I know you can get "Metalstick" or something like that, where you mix it to a paste and then stick it on, but will it be oil tight and would it be able to stand the temperature?
The sump is made from cast aluminium, so I don't think rust is the problem. A friend thinks it is a "blow hole" an imperfection when it was first cast.
Another way is to see if it can be welded, aluminium weld of course! Is this possible?
Cheers!
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How about drilling the hole out, tapping a thread and inserting a bolt?
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Hi Chris M
Good suggestion!
Do you think it could be done in situ? I'm thinking of any metal burrs from the drilling/tapping would get into the engine.
Cheers
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The leak may be a blow hole in the casting, but how "bad" is it? Is there sufficient thickness to enable a decent number of threads to be tapped to give the bolt enough support? Can you then ensure that you get a decent seal?
If you go ahead, I would take it slowly, using plenty of grease on the drills and tap to retain as much swarf as possible on them.
Can you arrange for the hole to be at the lowest part of the sump before drilling, and then flush the sump out with some flushing oil so that it runs out of your freshly tapped hole before fitting the bolt?
There may be a Locktite sealer/threadlocker which would lock and seal the hole afterwards.
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Yes it would depend on the thickness of the metal, but if it is only a pin hole, you would only need a small bolt - perhaps 2 - 3mm. Use Loctite and make the thread as tight as possible. Hopefully with care, it wouldn't produce a great deal of swarf.
I've seen it done on a steel sump with a self tapping screw.
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Thanks guys!
I'm sorely tempted to take the sump off, drill something like a 5mm hole and using a nut and bolt with washers sealed with Wynns gasket maker on both sides. I'm sure that this would be more than enough.
Am I making it hard for myself?
What do you think?
Cheers
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I would fit a new sump and then brush it with high melting point grease to keep the rust off. Have always done this from new on our cars with steel sumps.
I can`t believe what bodgers you all are ;);)
Regards
Edited by oilrag on 25/04/2008 at 18:11
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If you're going to all that trouble you could use lumiweld. Easier to thumb a blob of silicone sealer onto it, though, at least you would not make the hole bigger - you would not want the thing to push all the oil out when you're driving along...
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Hi oilrag
Thanks for the reply! The sump on my Vectra is made from aluminium, so I don't think rust would be a problem?
I'm taking on all this "bodging" info! It's great to hear other peoples solutions tho.
FotheringtonThomas, is lumiweld any good if applies to the outside of the sump, thus meaning less work to take it off?!
Cheers
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Sorry GazKaz ;)
Edited by oilrag on 25/04/2008 at 19:55
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Stuffing sealer in the hole is a bodge, whereas fitting a bolt is an engineering solution.
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The nut bolt washer soloution is probably the best way to go.However I saw in my local motor factor some epoxy putty called Quicksteel and was fasinated by the claims on the packaging so got some and did some experimentation.I cleaned up a steel plate with glasspaper ie to bare metal state stuck the putty on and left for 24hrs.Then attacked it with a hammer and chisel.It didn't budge at all and to all intents and purposes it was part of the steel.One piece which appeared a bit lighter in colour than the others due to less activater being mixed with it(its a swiss roll type arrangement) wasn't as strong a bond so its obviously critical to mix it properly,clean hands,surfaces etc.Apparantly it works underwater as well!
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I wouldn't go drilling holes or anything like that.
If you're sure it's a pin hole, and not a crack, then there's no problem in using epoxy. If you clean, key, and prepare the surface well, the epoxy will form a very good seal. If the epoxy does fail, then you're back to a pin-hole leak situation, which is hardly catastrophic.
As for epoxy not being an engineering solution - I've recently been testing a bond between glass and metal being made by a structural epoxy. The bond was 20mm diameter, 0.2mm thick, and withstood over 200kg of load before failure.
If you do start drilling and tapping, I don't see how you are going to be sure of making a good seal, and I think that there is a risk of making the leak far worse, and/or having swarf floating around in your oil.
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Hi guys
Thanks again for all your replies. Excellent motor forum this is!
I've got nothing to lose in trying the Quiksteel method. At least that way I'm not doing any drilling or tapping, and the sump stays on the car!
Will let you all know in due course on the outcome.
Cheers again
GazKaz
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The only difficulty I can foresee with the quicksteel method is the oil coming out of the hole while your doing the job.Perhaps it would be an idea to drain the engine using some of that flushing agent and then jack up the car so the hole is on the high side.
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Quicksteel works quite well, but just like anything else preparation really is the secret to it's success. It doesn't adhere very well unless the surface is de-greased, clean, dry and has a good key. Also Quicksteel works better on a warm day than a cold one. It goes off much quicker in warmer temperatures.......
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At work we use metal weld it's like dark grey in colour a putty you rub in your hands and apply it to the hole.
It takes approx 30mins to harden we have trains running around with this stuff on and no probs ideal for smaller holes like sumps,exhausts, etc.
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carry on 'bodging'- or to use its correct term, taking a pragmatic solution to the poblem.
But always weigh up the safety aspects, don't use Fairey Liquid in brakes etc. ( been done).
If the hole is as small as you say, filler will cure it no problem. A sump would be a waste of money and pure profit to Vauxhall who do not diserve it for making such a poor piece of equipment.
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Thanks TurboD!
Yes, the hole is only very small (maybe half a dozen drops on my driveway overnight)
I'm gonna have a bash at the repair this week. My local motor factors do stock Quiksteel so I'll give it a go, got nothing to lose really!
Don't really want to add to Vauxhalls coffers any more, then again, the car owes me nothing apart from the usual renewal of brakes, tyres and exhuast (oh, and a new thermostat 2 weeks ago because the old one was stuck open!)
Cheerio!
;-)
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All Parts list a sump for a 99-02 Vectra 1.6 for £33.84, plus £6.20 for the gasket (plus VAT)
Might be worth a call to find out what they'd charge for the 1.8 version.
Cheers
DP
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