I was crawling around under the car, as you do on a boring Sunday afternoon when you're waiting for the oil to drain, and noticed an area of bubbling paint.
It's a '53 Almera, and the area's on a cross member, under the bottom hose where it joins the rad.
It looks like it's had a small front end collision (small split in the underside of bumper, only visible on very close inspection, and a plastic undertray joined with sticky tape at a fold where the other side is intact). I suspect it's had a new rad early on, and the leak of anti-freeze stripped the paint, or a replacement rad, and the paint was damaged on fitting.
The area's only a few square inches.
I thought I'd scrape off the flaking paint, and liberally coat the area with old engine oil.
What's the BR opinion?
It would be difficult to properly grind down and re-paint without serious dis-assembly.
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I would brush it with Castrol CL waterproof grease.
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Slap some waxoyl in there and forget it.
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Dinatrol have some good rustproofing products. Even think Halfords stock some of them.
ideally the area should be wire brushed, some anti rust product applied and then rust proof undercoated and painted again. Then rustproofed
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Yes, if it were me, I'd wire brush it, spray with etch primer, then some paint, then clag it with one of the oily, greasy, underbody concoctions.
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>>It would be difficult to properly grind down and re-paint without serious dis-assembly.
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Finnigan's underbody seal has worked for me in the past, it's from the same stable as waxoyl and is very very thick but still flexible. I used it on my old MGB, on bits where the underbody paint had cracked. Once applied it stays in place.
To apply it effectively, I would recommend this: bring the can of seal (closed) into the house and leave in a warm place for a day or two, it's much easier to brush on like this.
Also, when you get under the car to apply it, thoroughly warm the affected area BEFORE applying .... use an old hair dryer or similar to warm it up.
Edited by craig-pd130 on 14/04/2008 at 10:10
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Finnigan's underbody seal has worked for me in the past
Unless the formula has changed I found that it washed off after a year or so when I applied this to the wheel arches of my old Astra.
I found Carplan's Tetroseal was much better and longer lasting.
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I don't like "underseal" of the traditional tarry stuff (no idea what "Carplan Tetroseal" is, though) - it is prone to trap moisture or (worse) salty moisture between it and the body. It's also a nightmare if you need to work on something that's been plastered with the stuff - welding it stinks and causes fires, attacking it with a power wire brush is indescribable.
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no idea what "Carplan Tetroseal" is though
Basically tarry underseal.
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Ooops. Sorry! However, the only worse thing I've done than run a wire cup brush through underseal is to run a high speed petrol strimmer through a cats turd. To be honest, the difference is marginal.
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One is better at stopping the rust than the other though.
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Ah! Waxoyl. That's the ticket. Seconded.
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Dinitrol came out much better in a Practical Classics test. I've used in preference now for some years and concur that it penetrates rust further and is generally a better product. But it is much more expensive than waxoyl. If it's only surface rust and isn't liable to be abraded by roadspray, waxoyl should be fine.
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In the days when cars really rusted, my father owned the Manchester franchise for Dinitrol and we made good money rustproofing cars quite thoroughly for several years until car companies realised they would do a better job on the production line.
Dinitroled cars seemed to stay on the road longer and in better shape than standard cars. Mind you, I'll bet they are all on the scrapheap now though. I keep forgetting how a three year old 1978 car could look worse than a ten year old one now.
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True enough Espada. My fathers Wolseley 6/110 I mentioned in another thread was bought new and he kept it for 5 years. It was suffering from fairly serious rust when he sold it.
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Does no-body ever use that "D-Rust" stuff nowadays? You remember! the pink jelly-type stuff containing Phosphoric acid, that you used to brush on, leave 10mins till the rust turned black and was "cured" then hosed off. Once dry, you could apply primer then paint as required! Think it was devised especially for "Allegro's" and the treated parts were (alleged) to be the strongest parts of the car.
Billy
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A few months back I saw the most gorgeous, original Jag XJ Coupe, it was 100% original with the lovely patina of age on the chrome and paint which was a little faded & dull but otherwise unmarked.
As I walked around it drooling, I noticed the little gold 'Ziebart' sticker in the rear window. Which explained why it had survived so well.
A couple of years back I saw an original Alfasud that was equally unmarked, that had a Ziebart sticker in it too.
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In 1980 i bought a new marina and had it treated with Endrust, the rust was perforating the wing from the inside when it went for it's first MOT!
snipquote
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 15/04/2008 at 17:12
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I'd use some Loctite Kurust (the white stuff that goes black), available in little touch up dispensers.Then use some Waxoyl or Waxoyl Underseal (stays waxy but black)
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