Hi All, I have a wheel stud that has snapped on a rear wheel on my fiesta (non ABS).
Appreciate some help with the following info:
A quick overview of the procedure to replace: Does the drum need to be removed? Does the wheel bearing need to be replaced too? How long would it take? Can a ford hub nut be re-used or does it need to be replaced?
How much would you expect to pay to have this done at a garage (london)?
Thanks for reading, and appreciate if you can share some advice...
Sigmond
Edited by Pugugly {P} on 26/12/2007 at 18:49
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I am not familiar with your particular car but I think the studs are normally pressed in from behind the flange, a good belt with a heavy hammer might remove it, the problem you may have is getting the new one in as there may not be enough clearance between the flange and backplate. I am sure someone else who has had experience of your paticular car will reply.
Peter.N.
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Not being a great advocate of percusive maintenance, I tend to use a scissor type ball joint remover, a bit like this one;
www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?item=875&cat=492
You can use the balljoint tool, both to press out the old stud, and press in the new one.
Why has the stud snapped? - wheel bolts and studs on cars don't usually fail**. If there's something systematic, (like massive overtorque on the wheel nuts by a clumsy [but speedy] fitter) it might be worth replacing all the studs on that wheel. You don't want to find that the studs have all been damaged and are all on the verge of snapping when you next go round a sweeping corner.
** On trucks, it's a different matter, they fail more regularly, and the sledge hammer is the tool of choice for changing them! - but, you're much less likely to distort a hub forging that's at least 3/4" thick than you are a relatively flimsy car hub.
If, as Peter.N mentions, there isn't enough room between hub and backplate, it's easy enough to unbolt the hub and bearing from the suspension, and do the stud removal/installation work on the bench.
Number_Cruncher
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If I've recalled correctly; [I really should pay attention when I walk past all those cars on lifts] these are wheel bolts and they go into an integral drum/hub assy that itself bolts to the trailing arm - yes?
So if one has sheared; then it's a broken-off bolt problem?
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Thanks to all the replies - the std snapped off because the other three were left hand tight by a garage that only tightened one of the nuts. Therefore, the one that snapped was the only one that held the wheel on the car for over 350 miles. Therefore, I think the other 3 should be okay, as they would not have been stressed.
Just to clarify, some of the posts seem to imply that the stud can be replaced without taking the drum off the car or opening the drum. Can you please explain a little more?
If I pushed the broken bit into the drum (with a hammer) then I can see where the broken bit can be taken out of the hub, and where the new one can be pushed in through?
Thanks for all the help....
Sigmond
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Sigmond
I think it's important that you clarify which fastenings are used.
Is it studs; which fix through the drum from the inside and leave thread sticking outwards - or bolts; which enter through the wheel and screw into threaded holes in the drum?
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Screwloose...
Its the former....
The thread sticks out of the drum. There are 4 of these and one has snapped.
Thanks
Sigmond.
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Right; remove the wheel;
remove the cap and centre nut;
remove the drum;
rest it on a bit of ply or thick cardboard;
find a suitable punch; [an old bolt or similar, just smaller than the hole]
drive the broken bit inwards until it drops out;
tap the new stud in from the back;
refit the drum with the new nut, torque and stake it - if it's that type;
fit a new cap;
fit the wheel and use a torque wrench to tighten the nuts and seat the new stud.
Refer to your Haynes manual for procedures and torques. If you feel it's not something that you're happy tackling; leave it to a pro.
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Thanks very much screw loose...
How long would you expect the work to take, and approximate cost (london area)?
Sigmond
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A competent fitter with a hammer-gun and a two-post lift would take under five minutes. You'll always have to pay a minimum half-hour labour - whatever that is now.
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>>as they would not have been stressed.
In this situation, I would replace them all. You can't be absolutely sure they haven't been overstressed by their ordeal.
A fastening which is only patially tightened can actually see a larger stress range than one that's fully tightened! I know this sounds odd and it definitely goes against usual intuitive reasoning, but, it's actually true. A fastener which is properly tightened as part of a well designed joint only sees 10 - 15% of the applied load on the joint (the joint itself actually carries it's share of load), wheras a fastener which is just snug sees 100% of the applied load. Odd, but true!
Are you sure that the garage actually didn't fully tighten them, or did they over tighten the nuts?, and stretch the remaining studs beyond their yield points - so that they stretched during use, and when you felt them, the wheel nuts were loose, not because they had been left loose, but becasue the studs had failed by stretching.
At the very least, look very carefully at the threads on the remaining studs - if they are stretched, you can tell by running the wheel nut down the stud - any stretch will change the thread pitch locally, and make the nut difficult to turn by hand.
If the studs come straight out of the drum, Screwloose's advice is spot on - you can't use the ball-joint press I mentioned above.
Because you're re-seating the stud, this is one instance where a re-check of the wheel bolt torque after 30 miles or so as per usual best practice is strongly recommended.
Number_Cruncher
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And why did you not take it back the gargage that left them loose. ??
Regards Peter
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Thanks Screwloose and Number_Cruncher for your informative updates.
Peter - the garage is over 300 miles away!
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Given that the difference in time and cost to change all four will be about two minutes and less than a pound, then I know which route I'd take.
Think just how much force a loose wheel will place on the three remaining studs once the first broke and its a no brainer.
--
I read often, only post occasionally
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All,
Just to keep you informed - the snapped stud was replaced by a local garage for £30.
The studs were £1.22 each from ford and the hub nut was another £6.
Interestingly the guy at the ford dealer stated that the hub nut can be re-used if the cage that forms the nut hasn't been damaged.
However what was disappointing was:
The studs and hub nut were speacial order parts! (£1.22 for a stud: special part)
Had to wait a day for the special parts to be delivered
Is this typical of main dealer service or Ford only?
Thanks to all the contributed to the thread and pass on advise.
Sigmond
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Dealers keep very few parts in stock now - most come on the overnight. There are just too many parts on too many differently sourced cars.
Ford alone sell cars and bits from VW; Mazda; Peugeot; Yamaha....
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Why should Dealers be expected to hold studs-hardly a high volume part?
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I'd agree in that the parts are very low volume sellers and this includes the hub nut. Most people tend to re-use them whether they should do or not.
Besides the dealer knows that even if they don't stock it, they can normally get them for the next day and they also know that you can't exactly get them easily from elsewhere so you'll have to more or less buy it from them anyway - no matter what their terms are.
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Most main dealers are supported by "area distributors" and can get parts within hours.My own local dealer who happens to be an "area distributor" has always been able to get parts that they don't hold within hours.They have also been able to get me an exhaust system for a 20+yr. old car within days.
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