Screwloose
Thanks for the reply.
Theres no issue with water loss.
Not done the tappet clearances , as from what I have read is that if these were out then it would also be a pig to start!
But will give it a go what I gotta loose? lol
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I have checked the valve clearances and they are as follow, readings start timing belt end
33, 13, 30, 8, 11, 34, 8, 35,
The specified clearances are Inlet 0.15mm Exhaust 0.30mm both are plus or minus 0.08mm so if I have read it right all are within that tolerance.
I have noticed that if I leave the car to tick over there is very little white smoke if none and it idles fine (Will double check this tomorrow when engine is cold again).
It also seems to 'miss' and smoke come out more around the 2000 rpm mark, if I hold it at 2000 rpm the revs rise and fall!
Now I might be clutching at straws but I noticed that the egr senor switch that is on the fuel pump clicks in at that time/position. Could this be causing the problem? The switch seems fine but wondering its something to do with the EGR valve itself. How and when does this cut in?
Lastly I am happy its not the glow plugs as all these heat up, the timer I think is right as it goes into post heat for around 1 1/2 mins when really cold and as engine warms up it seems to reduce this time.
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Despite your carefully made observations, I would suspect that this engine is not getting proper post-heat and that there could be two problems. You have measured 1 1/2 mins post-heat with a cold engine - this is not enough. 3 - 5 minutes at present ambient temperatures is more like it. Check that the two heavy connections under the glowplug timer are tight - they come loose.
If it's smoking whilst the plugs are definitely energised, check them for type and condition. Cheap plugs don't work properly and the specified Beru GN 912 (0 100 226 188) should be fitted.
The fuel system on these engines - assuming you have a Bosch pump which nearlly all did - is very reliable. Check that the waxstat timing advance and idle jack-up is free. The best way to establish this is to get the engine hot and check that there is at least 2mm slack in the control bowden. In this condition, check that the lever on the pump is free - sometimes they stick on the 'O' rings and a little oil is required. Finally, check with a cold engine that the lever is fully pulled in and is on its stop. Having just re-read your original post, the pump may be stuck with start advance applied - this would account for poor fuel consumption.
Finally, check the pump timing. You can do this by removing the top timing belt cover only as long as you know how to lock the flywheel. Pump timing can be adjusted with the 3 vernier bolts on the pump drive wheel - make sure you get it right.
659.
Edited by 659FBE on 28/11/2007 at 13:01
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659
Thank you for your comments.
I sure that the waxstat timing advance is fine and adjusted correctly but I will re-check again tomorrow just to be sure.
I will also check the timings of the post heat again.
The connections are tight under the timer
I do have to admit that I did buy cheap glow plugs this time! My reason, or justification were the old ones were Champion and I only have had this problem fairly recently. On changing to the new ones they was no change in the problem, either better or worse! But I guess I am going to have to buy Beru for piece of mind.
I have not done the pump timing so will do that. Can this come out of sync slowly over time? The only reason I ask is the car had been running fine for about 2-3 months that I have had it and this problem has only recently arisen. I did note in the service record that the timing belt has been changed before I brought it so maybe they didn't do it right!
One last thing does this engine have a Engine Management Warning light at all?
Cheers for your help
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This could still be the 'Temperature Sensor' read it properly and right it down very rough guide 2400 ohms cold 100 ohms at 80 degrees. Regards Peter
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Peter
Thanks for another pointer.
On the car there are two sensors. One with two wires which are green and a green connector, which I guess is the temp warning light and the other has a pink and green wire and a blue connector. I am taking it this is the temp sensor for fuelling
I am sure when I tested both of them showed no resistance when cold! But when warmed up the green still showed no resistance which is why I am guessing its the warning light. The blue one showed a reading.
I will do it again tomorrow and make a note of the exact readings.
Why does it have to be a problem thats only happening when engine cold! It means I gotta wait a day at a time to try these suggestions out, Lol
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So both of these are thermal switch and do not reflect the actual engine temp. If this is the case then they may be ok. Regards Peter
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There is no "engine management warning" light on these cars. The pump timing could move if the three bolts on the vernier hub have been left loose. They would then cause the timing to slip to the end of its (limited) adjustment. It's easy enough to check, so I included it. The whole timing drive is very well engineered on this engine and will last its stipulated life if the water pump survives.
There are two "thermistors" in the head - one is for the gauge and the other contains a thermistor and a switch. If I remember correctly, the switch is not used with the Lucas glowplug controller and is shorted out. Its associated thermistor sets the post-heat time.
When I tested glowplugs as part of my job, I'm afraid Champion were not top performers. GSF will sell the Beru plugs.
659.
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Stryman
I'd have thought that it was the other way round. The green sensor is the EGR switch [Lucas pump?]
Disconnect the blue one now that the engine is warm and see if the gauge drops to zero.
I don't think that this is glow-plug related.
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The EGR switch is a microswitch operated by the fuel control lever ("accelerator") on the pump. It does this by controlling a vacuum control solenoid valve on the bulkhead which then applies vacuum to the EGR. EGR valves give virtually no trouble on this engine.
659.
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659
On at least some of them there's a fuel lever position switch and a ECT switch on the EGR solenoid circuit. Agreed; this doen't sound like a typical EGR fault. I'd usually start with a compression test if the plugs are working and proceed from there.
[Of course, we still don't know if this is a Lucas or Bosch system - working blind as usual.....]
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Thanks for the advice and sorry thought I had included the pump type - its a bosch one.
Screwloose - There is no temperature gauge in the true sense only a light that comes on when its over heating!
Also in Haynes the wiring diagram shows the pink and green wires going to the Post Heat Thermal Switch. But I cant find any switch that has two green wires, the closest is green & green with yellow!
659 - The champion were the old ones. The new ones are made by a company called Wellman, who alledgedly manufactur OEM glow plugs for various manufactuers. www.glowplugs.co.uk . But I will still but some Beru ones if you think they will solve the issue.
I only mention the EGR micro switch as it seemed to be the only thing connected with the 'missing' and white smoke. As I said it gets worse at around 2000 rpm and this throttle position is the same as when the micro switch clicks open. But I will trust your word on them not normally causing a problem.
I guess then the next stage is to get a compression test done?
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UPDATE / CLARICATION OF PROBLME.
1. I have checked the pump timing and this seems to be lined up correctly.
2. I timed the post heating and that was 3 mins this morning, so again seems fine.
3. Both Temp sensors showed no resistant when cold. The green one still showed no resistant when hot , the blue showed 400 ohms at x1 when hot.
4. I noticed that when left to idle by itself the engine is fine with no smoke or roughness. It would seem that as soon as I press the accelerator or drive it, thats when I get the white smoke and jerkness. If left, as this morning for 5 mins or so it drove perfectly!
5. I have just re-fueled and the last tank did 50mpg so the dropped fuel consumation symptom might have been a red herring.
6. The cold waxostat works fine, the lever works fine.
From the above I am assuming that the problem is being caused by accelerator use/ the engine not being able to hadle the increaseed fuel until warmed up.
Would a lack of compression cause the above or would a dodgey temp sensor?
Thanks for you help so far.
Edited by Styrman on 29/11/2007 at 14:49
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Thanks for a carefully detailed update. It's getting to the stage where a definitive diagnosis is difficult without seeing the vehicle, but this problem to me smacks of poor post-heat caused by unsuitable glowplugs. Fuel consumation is an interesting concept, but assuming you do what the rest of us do with our diesel fuel, coupled with good cold starting and correct timing, it looks as though there is little wrong with the engine.
My partner has a 106D with 133k miles on the clock and the engine and fuel system has not been touched other than for routine maintenance. It has had 3 replacement glowplugs in its time (one is original) and although it starts reasonably when one is open circuit, it smokes and runs very roughly for a while. This leads me to suspect that the TUD5 needs all the post heat it is given, which is quite a bit. The glowplugs also have to get to the right temperature and be hot in the right place.
If you look at a used glowplug, you can see where the fuel spray has impinged on the tip and there is very little margin for error. If your plugs are hot at the wrong spot, it could be that the fuel is contacting them during starting when the pump selects excess fuel, but missing the hot spot post start when all it gets is idle fuel - which is very little on this engine.
Time for a 10mm deep socket I think.
659.
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659
It is indeed a strange one as the engine and fuel system does seem fine other than this very small time frame of around a 1 min or so.
I'm cut my teeth with mechanics on petrol engines so the diesel engine is baffling me at the moment but I am learning very fast ..lol
When I took the new plugs out to check them there were already covered in black soot. Would this be normal?
Also when I tested them straight off the battery they heated right from the tip to some distance all the way up, the glow seemed a consistant colour throughout.
I think I will buy the Beru ones to see if it does make a difference as that way I had be, fairly happy that its not the glow plugs then.
Just off topic a tad, is the fuel / air mixture set at a constant rate on these engines as opposed to petrol engines where it's constantly being adjusted to changing air temperature?
I have put a dose of injector cleaner in the system just in case you never know ;) ...lol
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Sooty glowplugs are entirely normal. It's not normal for the plugs to glow away from the end - they should glow at the tip where the narrowed section is - about 10mm for these plugs.
The fuel air mixture on a diesel varies considerably with work demand. At idle, a diesel will run at 50:1 air:fuel and correspondingly richer as the load is increased. This partly explains the exceptional efficiency of a diesel at part load - together with a high compression and the absence of a throttle.
Best of luck with the new plugs.
659.
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659
thanks for your comments, and sorry for long delay in replying but been away and thinking!
I'm not convinced that this is a glow plug issue, let me explain why. When I brought the car it had the champion glow plugs on and it was fine for around three months before developing the fault. So it would seem that the plugs where fine even thou cheap.
On changing the plugs the fault is still there so I am guessing, that whilst the new ones are not the best, they are still working as the fault has got no worse.
Thinking about things that have been done to car to bring about the fault, certainly since I have had it, and the only thing that I have changed is the air filter but sods law says I can't remember if this was before or after fault started!
Looking to before I had the car the engine had a new timing belt fitted on purchase. I have also noticed that when cold there is a scrapping/screetching noise, very slight coming from the timing belt side of the engine. Sounds like a noisey bearing or similar. This goes away fairly quickly as the engine warms up.
Now I was wondering if when the belt was changed that it was fitted too tight which has caused some wear which is causing the timing to be off very slightly when cold but as soon as the bearing warms up and the play gone the timing becomes spot on again. Is this possible?
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I think we are getting to the limits of "virtual" fault diagnosis, but I have a few more comments:
Timing: This is easy - lock the flywheel (found the hole?), use an M8 set bolt for the camshaft and a 6 mm drill shank for the pump. The timing drive is above reproach on this engine and should not be noisy. Check the idlers. Timing variation as the engine expands and tightens the belt is not generally significant. There is a far greater shift in the timing when the waxstat pulls the lever on the pump to the fully advanced position.
Tension: With a cold engine you should be able to twist the belt no more than 45 deg midway between the pump and cam wheels. These belts must be fitted tightly. Forget the SEEM tester - nobody has one.
Glowplugs: Neither Champion nor the presently fitted plugs are specified for this engine. The symptoms your engine is showing are consistent with a lack of post heat. The glowplugs are very easy to change on this engine and you have established that the timer is OK. Did you measure the voltage on the plugs? If this is correct (the controller drops about 0.75V) I would go to GSF for a set of the specified Beru plugs.
What has changed?: The ambient temperature has dropped considerably and the available fuel has changed to Winter grade which has a lower calorific value and is slightly more volatile. This is undesirable as far as a diesel engine is concerned, but less so than a wax-blocked filter.
Best of luck with this.
659.
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659
Thanks for the comments and guidance.
I have replaced all four glow plugs with beru ones, changed the fuel filter just to be on the safe side and yet still have the problem so I guess it's time for me to admit defeat and take it to the garage!
I did check the timing and it all seemed fine, I did find the hole, oh-er..lol.
I did notice that the timing can be adjusted slightly by the oval shaped holes on the sprocket and the timing holes are in the middle of these oval holes, which I am guessing right?
Just thinkin out loud could it just be a case that as it gets cold this is something to live with rather than something going faulty, after all the car is returning an average of 50mpg mixed town and A road driving, plus it starts almost on the first turn of the engine!
Lastly is there anything else that could be causing these symptoms i.e. poor valve seal seeing that I am fairly happy that the pre & post heating is working fine?
Many thanks for your help regarding this matter and the steep learning curve into diesel engines. Bring back my old mini engines any day .lol
Edited by Styrman on 14/12/2007 at 19:04
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The elongated holes in the camwheel and pumpwheel are to enable all positioning tolerances to be adjusted out - otherwise you could only set it up to the nearest tooth which is not accurate enough. The bolts can end up anywhere within the envelope of the slots - that's what they are for - and if you were, for instance, to skim the cylinder head, their position would change. The other huge advantage of this design is that you can tension the belt with the hubs locked and the wheels free, so there is no locked-in torque from the valve or pump plunger springs.
Did you check the voltage on the plugs during post heat? The Lucas controller and its connections are not world class and there should be no more than about 0.75V loss in the controller. If your charging system is operating normally, I would expect to see about 13 - 13.5V across the glowplugs during post-heat.
This engine is a little prone to closing up its inlet valve clearances but as this usually results in poor starting, I didn't suggest it. Probably now worth a look - they are shimmed but can be adjusted in-situ.
659.
Edited by 659FBE on 14/12/2007 at 19:30
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659
Thanks for the quick reply.
From memory the voltage post heat was in that area but will check.
I did check the valve clearances and whilst some were close to the limit, they were all in the tolerances stated in the haynes manual. I also think like your self that this would cause hard starting. I'm sure I posted actual values above.
The thing that is puzzling me is that the car is fine if left to idle with no hesitation or smoke, yet as soon as you press the accelerator it appears then goes after a minute or so. I am guessing this is due to the extra fuel being pumped in not burning properly for whatever reason.
Am I right in thinking that the post heat timer is controlled by the coolant sensor in the thermostat housing? Would this have any affect of the post heating other than the length of time? i.e fuel mixture strength?
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Sorry, I'd forgotten you had checked the valve clearances.
You are right about the cylinder head thermistor controlling the duration of post-heat. That's all it does and it has no influence on the fuelling.
Fuelling is set by the pump and the fuel control lever (attached to the accelerator pedal). At times, the driver has no control of fuelling such as during starting, when the pump selects excess fuel and during overspeed when the governor will cut the fuel. During idle, the engine is under closed-loop control whereby the engine speed is determined by the force generated by the governor flyweights and the strength of the idle control spring. Bosch fuel pumps are reliable.
Make sure the accelerator cable is not too tight, otherwise the pump may not be able to select proper idle control. Adjust it at the multi-slotted nylon bush on the fuel pump and make sure there is a little free play in the cable at idle - it must not hang on the cable otherwise the pump will not control on the idle spring in the governor.
659.
Edited by 659FBE on 14/12/2007 at 20:12
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659
I've checked the cable and that seems fine, it certainly wasn't pulling the fuel control lever.
I have re-checked the voltage for the glow plugs. (Battery voltage is 11 volts). Pre heat the supply to the plugs is 9 volts whilst plugs are heating. Once the car is started the post heating is showing 11 volts.
Now I am wondering, wild stab in the dark, if the battery is on its way at and if this could have an effect on the glow plugs heating. Although it does seem that as soon as the engine has started the volts go to 11 volts so maybe not!
I feel I'm fast approaching getting a compression check carried out at least to rule out that as a cause.
Once again many thanks for your help and comprehensive guidance.
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Almost sounds like the pump isn't advancing enough when cold or you have an injector hosing or air in the system when its been parked. I would put a clear plastic pipe in the feed to the pump & see if streams of bubbles run along it on initial start up.
Doc
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11V on the plugs during post-heat is too low. Remember that the power dissipated in the plugs and hence (to a first order) their temperature depends on the square of the applied voltage. (P = V^2 / R) where P is the power dissipated, V is the applied voltage and R the resistance of the plug.
Repeat your test during post heat with the voltmeter across the battery. Assuming your (Valeo) alternator is OK and the drive belt is tight (very important) you should see at least 13.5 V on the battery during post heat and about 12.75 V on the plugs. Voltage drops greater than about 0.75 V in the controller need investigation. Edit: I see you have checked the battery voltage - it's too low. The alternator should be able to balance 4 hot glowplugs at fast idle. Check the alternator and its drive belt. The belt needs to be tight - on the longest run underneath, it should "ping" when plucked.
If you take my (rough) figures and do the arithmetic, your plugs are 34% down on power at 11 V as compared with that at 12.75 V.
If your engine starts and otherwise runs well there are very unlikely to be any problems with the fuel system.
As a final test, remove and insulate the supply cable to the 4 plugs at the flywheel end of the engine. Now take a heavy piece of cable and connect the 4 plugs directly to the battery. Start the engine and see how this compares with the original setup. If the running on post-heat is now satisfactory, you have excessive voltage loss somewhere.
659.
Edited by 659FBE on 16/12/2007 at 13:46
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659
Once again thanks for the advice. Hope you had a good Christmas.
I've checked the drive belt and it seems to be tight. I have also checked the battery voltage again as suggested.
The voltage on the battery when engine stopped , nothing on, is 10v, during pre-heat is goes down to 9.5v.
Once engine is running it goes up to 11v during the initial post heat phase. This is the same reading at the glow plugs. So I am guessing the fault lies with the battery or alternator rather than the glow plug relay.
I have checked the voltage being pushed out by the alternator ( single black wire from alternator) and this is reading 10 - 11v. I guess this should be a lot higher and therefore I need a new alternator?
Lastly if I take a reading from the across the battery, after the car has been running for a few mins the volts go up to 12 - 13v! Could this be again the alternator as it 'warms' up? Or do you think something else is draining the power in the first few mins of start up? Any ideas how to bottom that one out?
Lastly it might be connected it might not but if I turn the engine off with the heater fan switch on, the engine runs on for a few second more than normal before turning off and the battery light on dash glows very dimly for that time. The length of time the engine runs on increases depending on the fan speed, higher fan speed longer the engine runs on. If the fan is turned off the engine stops as it should!
Happy New year
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I think I'd confirm those readings with a different voltmeter. All consistently too low to be plausible.
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Measure the voltage across a PP9 9volt battery and report back I'm starting thto think your meter is not accurate. Regards Peter
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I would agree with the previous comments concerning meter calibration - it looks to me as though your readings are (to quote VAG) implausible. If your battery voltage in the quiescent resting state is 10V you will not start a cold diesel engine.
The "running on" problem suggests an interesting wiring "fault" - or more likely a mod by a previous owner.
The heater blower is a PM field DC motor which will be equally happy as a generator. As the blower fan windmills to a stop after turning off the "ignition" it generates enough current to hold in the engine fuel shut-off solenoid (not a lot of current is needed to hold it in) and to dimly illuminate the alternator WL.
So why don't other 106s do this? There are in fact two lines which become live when the "ignition" is on - one to drive the shut off and one to drive the accessories - including the fan. Valeo ignition switches are not the best, and one or other of these usually fails on an old car. A common work-around is to connect the two circuits together, after all, they both become "live" together.
Now you know why there are two circuits.
I think we all need a virtual beer when this one gets fixed - mine's a pint of Fuller's.
659.
Edited by 659FBE on 28/12/2007 at 23:39
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Valeo ignition switches are not the best and one or other of these usually fails on an old car. A common work-around is to connect the two circuits together after all they both become "live" together.
Nay...!! Nay...! [And thrice nay!] The switch contacts melt from overload as it is; dualling the load on to only one set of contacts can lead to an early total breakdown, or a column fire.
The best method is to use a suitably meaty relay to de-load the damaged contacts; but all the wiring must be to OE spec, [no blue bodgers' terminals] as there's more load on that KK switch circuit [25-30 amps] than on any other car that I can think of.
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I absolutely agree, Screwloose - I just said it was a common work-around, not that I recommended doing it!
659.
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659
Ahh; that explains it. I thought that it was odd that you would recommend such a dubious action; but having re-read your post in that light, I now see what you meant.
You suspect that this bodge has already been carried out and the KK accessory [heater] circuit is linked to the CC [ignition loads] circuit - that's highly likely, given the symptom.
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Back to square one, you guys were right re the readings being wrong! I guess I'm getting so fed up with this saga even I missed it....lol
With a different volt meter I am getting the following readings
Battery reading engine off 12 volts
Battery reading pre- heat 11 volts
Battery post heat 13
Battery with engine running 14 volts.
Alternator output again 14 volts
So it would seem that the post heat is working fine after.
I am getting to the point where , seeing the car is running fine after the min and half of the red arrows impression, that it's just one of those things to live with. After all I can live with letting it idle for that time to stop the kangerooing / smoke!
I will check out the wiring as suggested re the blower.
As for beers, a virtual keg or two of fullers is on the way .
Thanks for all your help guys, and patience, I have learnt loads during the thread. It just goes to show that with cars you are always learning!
Once again cheers and a Happy New Year.
Now where did I put that box of matches and insurance certificate....lol
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Thanks for all the good wishes - and the beer.
A (really) final parting shot.
Depending on what may have been done to the wiring on your 106 (oops, sorry, Saxo) it's possible that the glowplug controller is losing the +15 supply when the engine is running. This will really muck up the post-heat sequence because the controller will initiate pre-heat thinking that the engine has not started. It will then time out on the safety timer which will, in effect, give insufficient post-heat.
Sorry if this sounds a bit convoluted. If there are signs of serious bodging in the area of the "ignition" switch, buy a new one from German Swedish & French, fit it carefully and restore the wiring to original spec. I think this might just do the trick.
(Takes cover, as I used to work for the people who made "that" controller - but I didn't design it, honest).
659.
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659
As a final update here goes!
I have had a look at the ignition switch and there is no obvioue work around all wires are intact and look original. Without taking the wiring switch apart itself to see if there was something amiss (Didn't want that spring flyig everywhere experience !). So I guess that there is a 'fault elswhere causing this problem?
More importantly I tried your suggestion are wired the glow plugs directly from the battery. This made no difference whatsoever, so I am now guessing that the pre & post heat side of things is fine and the fault must lie elsewhere.
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I have read this string with interest, it seems you have checked just about everything. If it idles alright with no smoke that would indicate the the compression is OK so the engine itself sounds in good health. The fact that it runs unvenly when opening the throttle would suggest fuel starvation, but the fact that it smokes would seem to indicate otherwise. It seems as though when the speed picks up the cold air entering the cylinders is 'putting the flame out' but I can't think of anything other than the pump timing taking a sudden excursion that could cause it. Just a long shot, have you changed the fuel filter recently?
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Peter
Interesting isn't a word I would have used....lol
I have changed the fuel filter recently. I did this as a 'just in case' measure, the fault was there before but nothing improved.
The other thing is I did change the air filter but I can't remember if this was before or after the fault started so I might change that just in case the new one influenced it in some way, I doubt it but its worth a try.
You summary is spot on, everything seems fine with the engine, etc, etc, except for this problem.
If this was a petrol car I would put money on fuel mixture being too rich or too weak, almost as if the choke was not working correctly when cold.
Just out of interest for 659, I know he can't resist this thread...lol.
If I started the car when cold without the cold advance lever being pulled by the waxstat. i.e i've slacked it right off should there be a huge change ? It's just that I did this and the engine fired up fine with the ening running normally like a hot engine. Is that a normal thing?
Secondly I took the glow plugs out again today and I noticed that only one had soot on the other 3 were clean. If I remembered rightly the cheap ones that I took off were all sooty. Again whats the norm?
Sorry for the silly questions but now looking at the tinyest of things now!
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You've still got the heater backfeed issue to address too. If the ignition wiring is standard, check the fusebox for bodgery.
Sorry if I've missed it; but have you tried new injectors?
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Screw
No I haven't changed the injectors how much would these cost new? Is it worth getting the old ones reconditioned?
Will check the fusebox as suggested.
I didn't realise a little car could be so much fun.
Styrman
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I've no idea what getting the injectors done would cost - it's just that you've checked almost everything else and it's still doing it.
That black glow-plug might also be a clue that one cylinder isn't burning right when cold. It could be that the injector is hosing.
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I'd try ebay for s/hand injectors... new would be too expensive...
madf
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Right guys just to keep your minds working on this problem :)
Iam pretty sure that the engine only smokes whilst at standstill within the following rev range 1250 - 2000 revs. At idle its fine with no smoke and smooth tick over, likewise over 2000.
Any ideas what cuts in at 2000 revs or cuts out, changes, etc?
Cheers
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Guys advice again please.
I have found a chap via eBay who will strip, clean, check and set pressures of my injectors for £0 inc postage.
Is this worth doing or a waste of time? Also is this something I could do myself?
Lastley I have a set of second hand ones coming from eBay for £20 inc postage so will give them a try, just can't work out if the cleaning etc is worth it!
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I have managed to source a set of new injectors.
Looking at them I am going to need a deep socket to change them, it looks like it's either 21mm or 22mm.
Can someone tell me the exact size socket that I will need?
Cheers
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Update
The injectors I managed to source are Lucas ones and I need the Bosch ones, why aren't cars simply....lol
Back to square one!
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Just found this (old) thread while considering my own 1.5d TUD5 / Bosch VE Saxo issues.
Considering when he played with the advance, doesn't this sound like a timing issue?
On my 02 plate Saxo with semi ECU control, the Timing advance works up to 2200rpm... This would also fit in with some other things he's noticed?
The big question is, how is the advance controlled on his Bosch pump? He's mentioned a wax stat... Is that definetly it? I thought it was a solenoid / pressure valve on these.
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