How does one test to see if a coil pack has gone
Thanks
Edited by Webmaster on 03/11/2007 at 19:47
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Has this got the twin-coil set-up? Year and engine/model code would help.
What makes you think that you have a coil problem; context is important.
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Its a 2000 W Reg (added), I think is a BJ engine, with 79,000 miles on clock
Symptons are
(1)Revs drop down to 500 then pick up to 750 when stationary, then drop to 500 and so on
(2)Occasionaly when car is started after a short run it will hardly idle i.e it will go between 250 rpm and 500 rpm lacks power then after aprox 1/2 mile clears itself
(3)Occassional hesitation when acclerating.
Have cleaned MAF sensor and that seemed to work for a couple of weeks before no 2 reappeared. Plugs were replaced at 52,000 miles
Have heard that the coil pack on the Mazda is one of the cars week spots but are open to other suggestions
Thanks
Edited by Webmaster on 03/11/2007 at 19:47
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The BJ is the model; a 1.5 on that year will be a ZL engine.
Try new spark plugs and make sure that they are the right ones. The hesitation might be a coilpack; but the idle sounds more like an air-leak or a mixture issue.
Removing and cleaning the idle-speed control valve would be a good move. Don't mess with MAFs - they don't get dirty if the filter's OK and cleaning them often kills them. [Have you seen the price of a new one....?]
Edited by Screwloose on 03/11/2007 at 18:30
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Removing and cleaning the idle-speed control valve would be a good move. Don't mess with MAFs - they don't get dirty if the filter's OK and cleaning them often kills them. [Have you seen the price of a new one....?]
Cleaned the MAF by using spraycleaner made sure I did not touch the element as I know this can be easily broken, have not seen the cost of a new one but guess its around £250 mark?
Where is the idle speed control valve, how easy is it remove and what do I use to clean it, would brake cleaner be any good?
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If memory serves; it's somewhere on the throttle housing - maybe low down? A drum-shaped unit with two screws holding it's base-flange.
Brake cleaner should be fine; they aren't sensitive.
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For the MX-5 (similar motor I think) you are describing classic symptoms of plug leads needing replacing.
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Hi Car, I replaced the coil packs on my Mazda 323F 1.6GSI due to pinking problems. Kind of helped reduce the pinking problem, but noticed it improved on idling and acceleration. I too cleaned the MAF.I used CARB CLEANER. I also cleaned the throttle body. Just sprayed lots of CARB CLEANER in throttle body.
I was told by the dealer that the coils packs were a problem. Not known to everyone, hence the price dropped. I think mine cost £11 for the coil packs. Very easy to fit etc.
Also for future reference you can use the following web site. It is a service manual
protege5.ugly.net/
Hope this helps
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Removing and cleaning the idle-speed control valve would be a good move.
Had car fault codes checked no fault codes showing or recording, the person who came upped the base idle and said the problem would be the idle-speed control valve and mentioned giving an ultrosonic bath but that may not solve the problem and a new valve would be needed, and could be lots of dosh
Edited by Car on 10/11/2007 at 15:47
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Changing the base idle to try to correct an existing problem is very silly. It has all sorts of unwanted effects.
If there is hard evidence that the idle valve is faulty, then it's got to be replaced - cars do cost money.
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sq
The car was previously idling around 600 to 700 rpm now 850 rpm, the problem I have is an interminet one i.e revs will drop to about 250 rpm and the whole car shakes and corrects itself after aprox 2 minutes, what are the side effects of increasing the base idle?
How does one tell if the idel valve needs replacing and what is the cost going to be?
Cheers
Edited by Pugugly {P} on 10/11/2007 at 17:15
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You tell by using the live-data intelligently and testing the component, both actively and passively.
Proper tests should have given enough reason to condemn it - or not.
You'll have to get a price from wherever yourself - a chassis number is usually needed.
Adjusting the [factory-set] base idle leaves the throttle position sensor out of range. The ECU can get freaked by the lack of a positive "throttle-closed" signal and fail to switch into idle mode.
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Adjusting the [factory-set] base idle leaves the throttle position sensor out of range. The ECU can get freaked by the lack of a positive "throttle-closed" signal and fail to switch into idle mode.
Took the car out for a drive after the idle speed was altered by the screw on the throtle body, idle is a bit more stable. How would I tell if the car was not going into idle mode (with no testing equipment)
Are thinking of taking a car to a Mazda specialist so they can check the problem out
Are phoning around but suspect I have to wait to Monday to get a price
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Once you're testing at this level a scantool is a necessity. [I'd have given the valve a quick clean/lube anyway - but....]
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Will be taking car to Mazda specialist next week (ex Mazda mechanic), his labour charge is 1/2 what the Mazda dealer charges and usually all the iscv is just a clean.
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