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£105 for a windscreen fitted in a clio...........i still cry about the cost
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Not sure if this counts, but I had just had my E-type resprayed.
Two weeks later, It was the anual JDC track day at Goodwood.
We stayed at a nearby hotel the night before, next morning I went outside to admire my beautiful gleaming car, but damm , noticed a small scratch on the top of the bonnet. Some moggie had slept on my big cat.
Anyway off to the track day. I was on my 3rd session of the day, driving like a dream, when suddenly it all went horribly wrong - the back end came round 270 degrees and we went into the tyrewall, span a bit further to hear a sickening crunch as the bonnet made contact.
Anyway, repairs were about £6,500, but I din't have to worry about the cat scratch anymore...
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£2000 quoted for the injection system to be repaired on my Mondeo tdci. Just for good measure they also told me that the clutch would soon need replacing and they 'recommend flywheel replacement at the same time'. That would be another £800-900 then.
So that's £2800+ to keep a not very old and not very high mileage Mondoe on the road, it was still just under warranty in fact. And Ford are supposed to be makers of 'peoples cars'??
Fortunately I managed to trade the car for a Honda so managed to dodge that particular elephant trap.
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IRO £1000, £650 for a 60,000 mile cambelt job on my V6 Vectra plus a service and new plugs & leads. It makes the possibility (as opposed to necessity) of a few CR diesel related repairs on my chain cam Mondeo TDCi that is now on 111,000 miles seem quite reasonable in comparison, particularly when it has used £5000 less fuel in that time and saved me a lot in BiK when I ran it on the company.
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Biggest repair bill, £550 due to blown head gasket on Mk.3 Golf, including welding cracked head and new cam belt. A lot of beer money but it could have been worse if I'd bought a recon head.
Silliest price paid for a single part was £140 for a coolant hose, a pre-formed rubber and metal one that goes under the rear of the engine on a Pug 405 Mi16. £140 for a four foot long tube! That was part only, I then had to pay someone £30 to fit it for me, no way was I going to let the main dealer do it...
;o)
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Funny how often the words "cam" and "belt" keep coming up on this thread.
I'd always driven chain cam cars until I got my Berlingo. On the next service, you'll never guess what is due. . . . :-(
Good advert for sticking to chains.
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Funny how often the words "cam" and "belt" keep coming up on this thread. I'd always driven chain cam cars until I got my Berlingo. On the next service, you'll never guess what is due. . . . :-( Good advert for sticking to chains.
That's great until they break or need replacing. Saab, Vauxhalls & the biggy the V6 in the Galaxy, reckoned to die around the 70-100K mark!
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"..That's great until they break or need replacing. Saab, Vauxhalls & the biggy the V6 in the Galaxy, reckoned to die around the 70-100K mark! .."
Biggest scam in motors today, imho. Why make an engine with a 'life' threatening weakness (bent valves, top-end re-build etc)
when the chain-cam alternative is (and was) the generally accepted as the best engineering solution.
Solution: Check the engine spec b4 the toy spec.
~woodbines
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"..That's great until they break or need replacing. Saab, Vauxhalls & the biggy the V6 in the Galaxy, reckoned to die around the 70-100K mark! .." Biggest scam in motors today, imho. Why make an engine with a 'life' threatening weakness (bent valves, top-end re-build etc) when the chain-cam alternative is (and was) the generally accepted as the best engineering solution. Solution: Check the engine spec b4 the toy spec. ~woodbines
My B-I-Ls 3 cylinder Corsa has just had its second chain replaced under warranty, its 27 months old and has done 20K miles. In 1994 my fathers 92K plate Sierra snapped its chain at 24K miles, the chain took with it all the sprockets / guides / cover / and brackets. Thats on top of all the bent valves and broken valve guides.
I'll take a belt driven cam everytime thanks
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£1100 for replacement cylinder head on my wifes Suzuki Vitara JLX SE Auto LWB after she drove it without water for a few miles!
It was out of warranty but full marks to Suzuki GB who paid half of the bill as a gesture of good will!
Geordie
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My 3 year + 4 week old Mondeo has cost a fair bit this week. Don't know the cost of parts because the lease company will pay. Took it in due to it reving strangely (I thought EGR again or slipping clutch). It's only got about 47k on the clock and they first found:
- Diesel leak to the injection system (1 hour fix time)
- Rear subframe bushes split (1.3 hours)
- Front and rear break disks replaced (0.9 hours each)
- 50k service (early but the others were all before 12500)
And then it still was not right so they said clutch is slipping. Car is now having the clutch and flywheel replaced and was told it takes about 4-5 hours, so lets call that 5 hours.
The dealer charges £75/hour and therefore without parts and excluding the service the car has cost over £680 in labour alone. And how much is a clutch and flywheel for a Mondeo TDCi?
I am so glad I'm not paying that.
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750 quid for service, MOT and two new top rear suspension arms and bushes fitted on the Honda Legend Coupe - they were (apparently) the only bits exclusive to the coupe and not interchangeable with anything labelled Rover 800! I thought long and hard before buying the Legend and told myself not to moan about bills like that if they came along and just enjoy the benefits. It was the only time it stung me in 60k hard miles - servicing, tyres and fuel didn't really cost much at all.
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- Rear subframe bushes split (1.3 hours)>>
Mine lasted 3.5 years and 100k miles, £80 parts + DIY + £35 lazer alignment.
- Front and rear break disks replaced (0.9 hours each)>>
My fronts lasted until 60,000 and then 108,000, I fitted the second set myself in 1.5 hours.
I am still on the original rear discs at 111,000, the first set of new rear pads were fitted at 105,000.
>>Car is now having the clutch and flywheel replacedand was told it takes about 4-5 hours, >>
Mine is on the original clutch at 111,000 no sign of wear.
Perhaps it is how you drive it ;-)
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I bought a Saab 9000 from a mate which had 72,000miles and a full Saab history. Before I bought it, I rang the dealers and questioned the cam belt change point. "It has a chain sir, they don't need changing and its a Saab - it's one of the best engineered cars in the world" quoth the service manager.
I bought the car and took it in for a service a few weeks later. I thought the engine a little rattley, so they had a look and said (guess what?) "its the cam chain sir - it needs changing; oh and the engine mounts need changing also". Luckily I had transferred the warranty which paid out in full. I sold the car and heard that the engine blew up a few weeks later. I understand the bill was over £1000 to do the warranty work.
I will never buy another Saab
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£350 for a cambelt and water pump on my Xsara at local independent.
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£1100 Gearbox on a X reg Clio RSi
Certainly not cheap!
Gearbox alone was £550 + VAT for Renault Recon
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Had bigger cash bills since, but in real terms probably the £370 to sort a displaced cylinder liner in a Pug104 c1983.
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'£350 for a cambelt and water pump on my Xsara at local independent'
Assuming this is the Xsara 1.9TD XUD, £350 to me seems rather expensive for a cambelt and water pump. I'd have thought £200-220 would have been more realistic- I paid £140 three years ago at a local indepedndent to have the cambelt changed on my 306TD, I would have thought no more than an extra £60-70 for doing the water pump as well.
Martin
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after a weary divorce, decided i was going to spend some money on my pride and joy (Triumph 2000 mk1) which had been languishing in the garage with a very rattly engine..
towed it to Devon, where a small village garage did me a deal for labour that was well cheaper than London..and had the engine done...then a few more things crept into the equation, as whilst the engine is out it might be worth giving it a tidy up in the engine bay, as that was the scruffiest part of the car......and whilst the spray gun is out, why not do the rust properly on the lip of the o/s/f wing.........and then..........
so it went on..........the bill was £3,300....... (and that didn't include fitting a tow hitch to my main driving car & trailer hire, fuel etc)......for a car that was worth £2,000 absolute max, probably nearer £1,500.
oh well, that was 9 years ago and i've still got the thing...never to be sold......was worth it to me
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Bushes are down to all the speed humps around where we live. I cannot get anywhere without going over about 6 full size speed humps. And then 6 on the way back.
Clutch will probably be due to a problem that was there all along - always had a very high biting point and it doesn't on the new one. On a steep hill in the lakes it slipped about 13 months (and over 20k miles ago). Got it checked and Ford said it was fine but never know why it slipped that time. I even posted on here about it and someone said it would last 1000 miles. Driven the same road in VWs before and they were fine.
As for brake disks... I think they are fleecing the Lease company. I found nothing wrong with how they were working and at the last service they did not note anything and it passed it's MOT a few weeks ago fine. They claim the fronts were 80% worn an the rears 99% worn!!!! I actually do not believe them.
But I don't pay the bills and apparently the car is getting close to being outside of the lease company's maintenance budget.
Of course it probably is how I drive it ;-)
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To a large extent clutches, brakes etc. tend to wear dependent on the type of use the car gets. Obviously a car used for cruising up and down the motorway will not suffer much in the way of clutch or brake wear. A car used in mainly city driving will.....
Some cars do last much better than others. We sold my wife's 2.0i Primera early this year. It was 8 years old, used for mainly local driving (so loads of short runs), at least 14 speed humps a day (7 each way), never garaged - always outside. Still all original including battery and exhaust. It only ever had service items apart from one seatbelt that was renewed under warranty. Never any advisories on MoT. No play at all in the suspension.
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The 5 year service on my MGF cost £1600+ - with cambelt replacement, some serious work on the brakes and some suspension work. The car was a lot better afterwards (!)
The 6 year service was nearly £600, and the 7 year service was over £400.
The 8 year service was a mere £200 but just two months later, the steel underfloor coolant pipes ruptured despite being replaced at the 7 year service !
The car was then replaced by a Mazda 6 which is far, far cheaper. Surprisingly, it also handles better - except for pulling away.
It like to say the MGF was cheaper in the first five years, but It would be a lie - I just don't have the bills to hand. The broken gearbox and twice broken engine were covered by warranty though.
Depreciation? oh yes please! lots !
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1998 Impreza turbo, clutch and flywheel change - £880
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6!! You lucky beggar. I live in the borough of Camden and pretty much every road I can think of has speed bumps, I probably go over 20 each way every day just leaving the borough to get to work. On topic though, Largest repair bill:
On my Fiesta iv 1.3i, only 1 cylinder of the engine worked due to engine running dry of oil once. Ford wanted £1650 to replace the engine. So instead I traded it for a Golf GTi which then suffered clutch failure. Managed to get that replaced under warranty (£700 bill) on condition I payed for the clutch plate (£120) - feels like I got off lightly...
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