I've taken a real fancy to the BMW 330D - it seems to satisfy the dual urges of real driving pleasure in comfort, and respectable diesel economy in manual spec.
Can only afford an earlier high miles one, and got my eye on a 2000X 330D SE Tourer with 101k on the clock - standard apart from (stupid) 18-inch alloys and xenons.
It's advertised at £9k, so bearing in mind what a dealer would offer for it at this time of year, with those miles and of that vintage would a bid of £8k be too cheeky? Any pro haggling tips appreciated as I'll be on the blower shortly...
The feeling I get is that cars like these really aren't moving unless the miles are low and the warranty's cast-iron - if not, the price must be very keen.
|
I should add that I've looked at several already that have 'stuck', having been for sale for a couple of months, with prices creeping down - in all cases the miles were high and you can't get an aftermarket warranty over 100k. All dealers said they'd only give the minimum legal guarantee of three months.
One trend is that many dealers are not preparing their cars beyond a wash and wax and leaving the issue of what work to carry out a matter for negotiation with an interested punter. Sounds good, but it's very offputting if the aircon doesn't work, if alloys are badly kerbed, or the brakes make very unhealthy noises on test.
|
Highly unlikely that the alloys are Original BMW (SE spec came with 17"), so find out if they are replicas and use that as a bargaining tool. Brakes I wouldn't worry about, parts are readily available from the budget sources (GSF Eurocarparts etc) and its a simple (read:cheap) job to change them. Aircon is a different matter and you would want to be sure that was sorted out.
A 2000MY will also be the older pre-facelift car, not the more desireable post 2002 model so you might try that as another bargaining angle. Xenons are coveted so the seller might be expecting a premium for those.
|
|
To be honest, I would also check on service history. If there isn't one present with the car, BMW keep pretty good records accross their networks and are generally helpful if you're nice with them.
|
|
|
Thanks for that Trancer
I was always told that to haggle effectively you had to identify specific faults, chipping away the confidence of the seller - plus masterly use of the art of silence! This is always difficult when you make the first call before seeing the car, and try to establish just how rigid they are on price - that's why I'd appreciate some insider knowledge from the trade to see where the market's at right now - I'm guessing it's at a real low?
I've used the Glass's Guide valuation link from the Vauxhall website and 'imagined' the usual dealer mark up (presuming around £2k on this kind of car). If the hunch is right I'll pitch in with a much higher offer with no complications as long as the car's a good one...wish me luck :-)
|
|
Trust me you'll love the car if its a good 'un !
|
i wouldnt ring the dealer up and try to find his "bottom price" as you havent seen the car and cant form an honest judgement,turn up view the car and if interested then offer to negotiate ,this way the trader will know you are a genuine buyer and maybe willing to negotiate.
One more tip, dont turn up with shorts on...........
|
Thanks for the replies
Seems the seller's had his fill of timewasters and was very keen to sell me the car...got on like a house on fire, especially when we found we shared the common challenge of having many offspring (4 in this case!).
Good advice about waiting until the viewing - but it's sometimes good to test the water regarding how 'bendy' they can be on price. I got the impression there was only a little leeway, which is why a valuation is always useful to get the market feel at this time.
Will let you know how I get on...
|
|
Have you driven one yet ?
|
"Have you driven one yet ?"
Its game over once you do. 8-)
|
Ooh and a couple of tips.
1. Check the spare, it could be spacesaver depending on the original spec, make sure you have one !
2. Don't be put off with an airbag light, the connections under the seat are vulnerable and can be easily diagnosed by an independant and repaired for buttons.
3. Make sure the ABS light comes on and goes off as programmed. They're easy to isolate and mask a biggger problem.
4. Rear suspension bushes. Insist on an MoT test for 12 months.
5. Check the oil after the car has been for a run and left to stand for a few minutes, it's normal for it to be jet black within a few days of a change. I would change oil as soon as you get your hands on it with proper spec stuff not cheapie tyre depot stuff. Make sure you change the filter, genuine BMW part only.
6. I would change the Brake fluid unless there is evidence that it had had it changed in the two years. This can destroy your ABS. Use proper Spec stuff only.
7 All BMW have a four year cycle for collant change, make sure this has been done with the proper stuff.
8. Check the rear tyres for wear and front tyres in case they've been swapped. BMW dealers can be very competative with prices for bits like this but they are expensive anywhere, those rear tyres are critical for safety, don't take any chances on them.
9. Read Trancer's posts on his 330d.
|
|
|
|
I take it you still love yours then !
|
|
Even more than when I first got it.
|
|
Check out the latest 330 bi turbo, now that's what I call a car and a half....
|
Thanks again for the comments
Yes, I've driven three so far - the first time I was almost speechless at the amount of effortless torque and driveability...
They've all been the earlier 184bhp model. Even so, nothing prepares you for the way these cars drive - throw away your preconceptions and prepare to lovel diesel! I also thought the steering was really responsive, giving a great feel and nicely weighted.
Before settling on the 330D I drove several TDi 130 and TDI 150 Golfs. Nice enough and great economy, but very woolly steering and strangely detached driving feel.
My first thoughts when driving a 330D were the same as when I first drove a Subaru Impreza Turbo - you're half in shock at how enjoyable and involving such cars can be...
|
The car takes on another persona once it has been re-mapped. I once owned a 5 litre V8 Mustang GT and my re-mapped 330d is easily the equal of that car in terms of power and acceleration.
On a BMW forum I haunt, there are a few 330d owners who have come from Impreza STIs and Mitsubishi Evos and never looked back.
|
|
|
|
|
