I'm not that desperate :).
There are two fans on the front, each have a seperate power feed dissapearing into the loom, which make tracing it back a bit hard.
I have just found this image of a fan sensor
tinyurl.co.uk/ya7f
But all my previous cars, the fan switches have two connectors. This one only has one.. How do I short that out?
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picnic
First question; has it got air-con?
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picnic First question; has it got air-con?
according to data they all have screwlose.
the only thing i can find is that a coolent blower motor relay is alledgedly fitted to this vehicle and the fitting time is 6 minutes,this says to me it must be pretty easy to find and may well be under the bonner and seized internally
(im assuming its for the fan and not the heater blower by the way).
If you cant locate this and the fans spin by hand (ie not seized) then ask to see in dealership what it looks like or if cheap enough you could consider purchase of it.this will help find its location?on your motor.
Some modern cars get their fan power from the ecu these days so there may well not be a thermostatic switch either on the radiator or on the block for this purpose?i assume a haynes manual is just a hopeful dream?
You could always dealer it as a blown engine would turn this vehicle into a £35 piece of scrap if you understand me :-0
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Well; assuming that this isn't the [import?] exception that proves the rule and that it HAS got air-con - then do the fans run when the air-con is selected? The fan relay[s] could well be under the sole control of the AC/climate ECU; another good reason not to go flashing wires about.
When did it overheat? In stationary traffic or cruising? If the thermostat fails shut, [common] then any rad-mounted temp sensor never gets hot enough to switch in the fans - even if the engine is boiling.
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If it only has one connector, it is earthing when hot, providing -VE for the fans, you should unplug off the sensor, connect a test wire between the wire and a bare metal connected to the chassis.
It sounds like the fans have a permanent (or ign. controlled) +ve feed.
After checking the -ve feed as above, you could do with back tracing the 12v +ve through any relays or fuses, or providing a 12v feed to as near as the fan as possible. You need to be careful that you know the theory of what you are doing though, or you may create a puff of smoke.
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Sorry for the long delay chaps :)
Yes, it's not an import.
Yes it has aircon.
Yes the fans turn by hand
I have not been able to see any relays (can't see any listed in the manual) and the noted fuses in the fuse box under the bonnet are ok (two of them, one for each fan I assume).
I noticed it started to overheat on the way into work one morning. 8 miles of country lanes 40 ish mph it was fine. When I got to a roundabout, the needle worked it's way up. Heater on full to try and get rid of some hot air and a short run, brought it back down.
On the way home, the needle was up and down, though never very high.
Levels checked when got back and they were normal. No gunk in the oil and the rad did not appear to be leaking anything. No water residue around the engine bay or on the plastic cover at the bottom.
I shall give the cable a test as recommended when I get backs...
Thanks
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