Just did an engine flush, oil and filter change yesterday.
After that we took the rocker cover off and set the valve clearances.
The rocker gear looked horrible. Black and cokey.
I didn't expect it to look like new (it has done 96k) but I wasn't expecting that.
My mechanic pal reckoned it wasn't worth worrying about (case of the 'they all do that's?) but I think a good clean mightn't be such a bad idea.
It looks like only 4 bolts hold it all on so I don't imagine it being difficult but I thought I'd ask around, do they all do that and is it really not worth the bother?
(BTW, it sounds perfectly ok, I've heard better but also much worse from an old push rod unit)
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If it aint broke ...............
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As Cheddar says, leave well alone.
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gixxerman
That's known as "black death" [or "the GTX effect"] in the trade. Clag like that should have passed into history with the introduction of API-SG grade oils in the late eighties. It's either missed a few services at some time, or it's had some very sub-standard lubricants used.
You could try using a proprietory engine flush at the next change, but if it's really hard, only boiling the engine in a degreasing bath will shift it. With modern oils, inside an engine should like exactly like new - whatever the mileage.
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Thanks for the views guys; I'll take your advice and leave it for now.
I'll give it a go see what a couple of tries with an engine flush manage over the next couple of oil changes when they become due.
Cheers.
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Son's 1.1 Fiesta was like that. After 20k miles and 4 oil changes, now ok cos he drives 20 miles to work and 20 miles back daily. Heats oil and engine properly.
Have also cleaned out breathers every year in spring: essential.
madf
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>>Heats oil and engine properly
Indeed, this is a major part of the problem. Deposits are very temperature dependent. Or, phrased another way, you can tell how hot parts of the engine are running by what deposits you find there.
For once, I disagree with Screwloose; this isn't black death, it's a fairly normal sight on these engines.
Number_Cruncher
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gixxerman That's known as "black death" [or "the GTX effect"] in the trade. Clag like that should have passed into history with the introduction of API-SG grade oils in the late eighties. It's either missed a few services at some time, or it's had some very sub-standard lubricants used. You could try using a proprietory engine flush at the next change, but if it's really hard, only boiling the engine in a degreasing bath will shift it. With modern oils, inside an engine should like exactly like new - whatever the mileage.
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Seconded, even at 96K the inside of the engine shouldn't be too bad with regular sevicing and decent oils, but I wouldn't fiddle with it now, juts make sure that you do a decent service and oil change.
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That's known as "black death" [or "the GTX effect"]
I didn't think the Endura-E was known for it's tight tolerances or high state of tune. :-P
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I serviced an elderly neighbour's P-reg Endura-E engined Fiesta a couple of years ago. 27,000 miles on the clock, mostly short journeys, serviced religiously every 6,000 miles, yet the top end of the engine looked like it had never had an oil change in its life. Black crud everywhere!
Still ran alright though, if a bit "ticky".
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Gien that API is not at the forefrontof oil technology for European driving conditions, what does Vauxhall suggest for these motors? The black death has usually been associated with low grade dino oils, which would pass API "standards" until quite recently, and might do still! Better to see if there is an ACEA or mfr specific oil standard advised in the handbook, or talk to a competent dealership.
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what does Vauxhall suggest for these motors?
Going to the Ford dealer across the road, I presume. :-P
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what does Vauxhall suggest for these motors?
0w30, though it was 10w40 until a few years back. These engines will not black sludge, they are too loose.
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Mike Farrow
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Perhaps to aid flushing, you could clean out the crud from the rocker box cover, as this can build up quite a few millimeters, and weigh as much as the actual steel! As mentioned, don't bother dismantling the rocker shaft with so much crud around though, you'll only get it when you don't want it!
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Mike Farrow
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Ford 10w/30 multigrade is what Ford recommend.
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When I adjusted tappets on son's car (above) I took a 2 cm wide balde paint stripper and removed as much black deposit as possible. It was, howver, into the walls of the block through which pushrods ran. So I left them. Changed oil + filter after 1,000 miles cos I reckoned I had disturbed all the rubbish..
madf
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My 1997 Micra's hydralic tappets used to rattle when the engine started, presumably due to dirt.
The last oil change I put in Carlube 15w40 Turbo Diesel oil (it had the right API and viscosity) which has cured the problem. I think it might be down to the detergents in the oil.
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Ford 10w/30 multigrade is what Ford recommend.
IIRC the correct grade they now say is a 5w/30 which seems to me to be really 'thin' for such an old design?
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10w/30 multigrade is what was recommended for that engine along with 6,000m. services.5w/30 semi-synthetic is recommended for later versions of the engine along with 10,000m. services;both have the same viscosity when hot.
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Last oil change, switched to castrol Magnatec for Older Engines. So far oil consumption down and runs slightly more smoothly.
madf
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