1997 Rover 416 si ( rover engine)
Had for a few yaers, always been a good starter until now.
Just spent £500 on MOT, repairs & service , which is actually what Parkers says is the most the car is worth ( good private)
About 1 in 5 times that I start the car ( cold or warm .. rarely if hot engine ) it fires then revs die... and engine cuts out & won't start again , until left for 2-3 minutes , I know when it will start as after this problem if on second turn of key ( ignation on , but not styarter) I get a short whirling noise , then it generally starts .
Mentioned it when I had service... but never happened with mechanic !
Not keen on spending a lot more , as might be throwing good money ......
Any ideas. thanks
Edited by Pugugly {P} on 12/01/2008 at 17:10
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>>I get a short whirling noise , then it generally starts .
Thats the fuel pump working,if you dont hear that before trying to start dont try,It may be the relay causing it.
Common fault on them and sometimes hard to locate, would first check relay.Offhand cannot remember where it is??
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Steve
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Bet you this is the PGM-FI main relay - have a look here:
www.marklamond.co.uk/howto/electrical/main-relay/m...m
or
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#mainrel...y
Same problem on my father's 216SLi - resoldered, and then no problems after that.
If not it could be the igniter - read these:
www.gcw.org.uk/rover/igniter.htm
www.currentcare.co.uk/Appguide/CCL_0003/0003HOND.H...M
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...on the 216 the Main Relay is in the centre console - I'd guess it would be nearby on the 400 as well.
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colin
This isn't PGM-Fi. That was the earlier Honda-engined one; this is Rover's K-series with MEMS. The twin-plug multi-relay pack is by the ECU under the bonnet. Black, slightly-tapered plastic; a little bigger than a packet of king-size.
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colin
As Steve says, this is a common one. The pump relay is combined in that black relay module with three others. They were £80-90 from the dealers [when there were any!] Be careful getting one second-hand; they all look the same - but aren't. Go by exact part no.
The ECU itself was a more common reason; it earths the pump relay coil to activate it [check the voltage on the black/violet wire??] and as it gets older the transistor can get a bit weak. There is a bit of an iffy bodge to save having the ECU repaired - hopefully you won't have to go there.
A quick check of the inertia switch [and it's plug terminals] would be worthwhile too: unlikely, but easy.
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Cheers guys ... great help
I'm not that technically minded, but assumed it was something that controls fuel input ... found the box - behind the ECU, just unplugged leads , then plugged in again ...... tested a few times , and no probs yet, although its bound to go next time its important
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