Sheared Bolt Removal Tips - rg
Folks,

In removing the ABS wheel sensor from my XM, a securing bolt lost its head.

It's not in a blind hole, and the rest of the stud sticks out through the other side of the casting, albeit heavily rusted and difficult to access. This prevents the stud being screwed "out", as the female thread will encounter the male rusted bit, hence it can only be screwed further "in", and eventually clear of the hole.

I've managed these little surprises before, mainly through heat, drilling, patience, penetrating fluid, etc, etc, but would still welcome any insights from other "learned listmembers".

rg
Sheared Bolt Removal Tips - bell boy
mig a nut on it through the thread hole, this makes heat penetrate the joint to free it and also gives you something to grip it with,so it can be withdrawn
Sheared Bolt Removal Tips - Collos25
As most people do not have a welder to hand they can drilled out using a set of very sharp drills and with care or use a bolt remover kit.
Sheared Bolt Removal Tips - Cliff Pope
Think carefully before resorting to drilling out. In my experience stud extractors ALWAYS break, leaving one with an even worse problem.
Pressumably it got tight, and then broke, because as you say, you were trying to thread rusty bolt back into the housing.
Was it tight right from the start, or did it start to bind after turning for a bit?
If you managed any movement before, I'd say concentrate on cleaning up the protruding threads, and then filing flats and gripping with a small spanner or mole wrench. Don't grip on the actual thread because you may need to wind it back out.
Once it will move even a fraction, work it backwards and forwards with lots of WD40. Can you safely heat it up?

If on the other hand it is totally locked in the thread, then it is going to take a lot of shifting - same torque or more than the amount applied to break it. I'd be in the hands of the experts at that stage - welding on a nut at the back, or clever stuff welding on a stud from inside.
Sheared Bolt Removal Tips - rg
Thanks, folks, for taking time to reply.

The hole is not blind, and the stud has had 36 hours of treatment from penetrating fluid, so filing flats and trying to wind it further on whilst heating will be the first line of attack.

I've heard from another Citroen sage that these bolts were "Loctited" in as well as sitting out in the muck and corroding from day one. Ho-hum.

rg
Sheared Bolt Removal Tips - Dynamic Dave
When you say "penetrating fluid", I trust that is something like Plusgas, and not wd-40?, as wd-40 isn't a true penatrating fluid.
Sheared Bolt Removal Tips - Aprilia
line of attack.
I've heard from another Citroen sage that these bolts were "Loctited"
in as well as sitting out in the muck and corroding
from day one. Ho-hum.
rg

Heat will break down the Locktite.
Sheared Bolt Removal Tips - jc
Plus-Gas every time!!
Sheared Bolt Removal Tips - tr7v8
Best thing I ever brought for this sort of thing is a Dremmel, enables you to drill, cut & grind the bolt to either get a grip or drill onto it.
After that Cobalt drills are brilliant, much faster & straighter drilling, not expensive from screwfix either.

Jim
Sheared Bolt Removal Tips - Done! - rg
Thanks, folks!

Done! 15 minutes of heat, tweak with mole grips, ease back and forth.

In the end, I "backed" it out gently rather than driving it in furhter and out the other end.

In gripping it tight with the mole grips, I had inadvertently crimped a couple of flats onto the end. Some testimony to the poor qulaity of the material, my "King Kong" grip, or a bit of both.

Thanks again!

rg