Anyone out there ever heard of or used a tool that removes CV joints without having to use heavy hammer or similar. I have seen a tool in the Sealey catalogue but it doesn't explain where it bolts to or how it is positioned. At first I thought it was similar to a hub puller, but as the outer cv joint and splined stub are attached to said joint, I can't see how a tool can pull against it to force joint off the snapring/driveshaft?
Any ideas as I don't think much of quick fit two part cv joint rubber boots, and using brute force can damage joint, adjacent panel work/components and hands/fingers etc.
Andrew
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once the trackrod end and bottom balljoint is removed, usualy a quick pull is all thats needed.But if you have problems,using a copperhead hammer while pulling the hub toward you should shift without causing any damage
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Steve
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He is on about getting the CVJ off the driveshaft rather than the splined part out of the hub bearing.There is this tool-www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdsusp03.html
but how do you prevent the shaft coming out of the inner joint?I presume the one you mean is like this-
snipurl.com/kmsr (Shortened link to the www.all-tool.com website - DD)
in which case I would think you use the hub nut to pull the joint off against the tool which is clamped to the shaft.
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Better link
www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/CAL-90400.html
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If you can't tap the outer cv joint off of the shaft, then just remove the drive shaft, with out disturbing the inner joint..
No need to pull it out of the gearbox, just cut the ties off of the inner boot...
Put the shaft in a vice, and remove the tripod joint from the shaft, and then you can slide the new boot along the shaft to fit..
Hope this makes sense:)
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Many thanks for all replies. Yes, I was enquirying about the tool that removes the outer joint from the shaft AFTER splined part has been slid out of hub. I have spent many cold hours over the years trying to persuade stubborn cvjoint snap rings to release. Often means clamping driveshaft against suspension part and hitting joint with soft faced hammer then hoping inner joint doesn't pop and dump gearbox oil on drive. I have looked at the specific tool and have worked out how it works - it's brilliant.
Also, have had not much luck using cones to slide on cv rubber boots. I have got a Draper cone that even when greased up kept tearing the small diameter hole on the boot. Glad I am not a Proctologist is all I can say!!
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Only used a cone a couple of times, but you do have to get the CV boot designed to use with it.
Worked very well
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My own method for removing snap-ring type joints is to clamp a large pair of MoleGrips to the driveshaft and then wedge the grips against the lower arm. This stabilises the shaft somewhat and gives you something to hit against. This minimises the risk of dislocating the inner joint or pulling the shaft out of the gearbox. I also use a 6" long x 3/4" dia copper drift so as to direct the single blow onto the inner part of the joint. One sharp clout with a 4lb mallet, works every time. On the subject though on the French rubbish that requires major dismantling of the inner joint to slide the new boot on from the inside I just fit an exchange shaft. They are SO cheap now its not worth the hassle of stripping down a filthy greasy mess, washing it all off then fighting the inner joint off, oil everywhere...... just one shaft out, into a big plastic bag, new shaft in,refill the 'box, job done!
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Simplicate and add lightness!!
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