Hi,
I have just (last friday) bought a 306 D Turbo P reg, very nice car too. I drove it for 100 miles back from where i picked it up and I enjoyed every mile.
I went straight to my friends to show it off, the engine being quite hot now, however, when my friend and I got in the car to take it for a spin, (on friday) it had to turn over about 15 times before it started. This was of great concern.
I then left it for the weekend until sunday, and trying to start from cold, its not having any of it. I have turned this car 30 times at a time, and its not firing. Its a sitting duck, with plenty of diesel in it.
Completely gutted and feel helpless, can anyone tell me why:
1) it didnt start when it was warm
2) it now doesnt start at all
I have heard possible reasons could be glow plugs, fuel pumps etc. If anyone can shed any light on this, I will love you forever more. Kind regards, Damien
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Often it is the glow plugs - 3 of them are dead easy to change but one is a right pain to do as it's stuck underneath another component that i can't remember right now. But as a result it can make starting VERY difficult.
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Hello,
The first place I would start would be the glow plugs....
It may sound stupid, and others might disagree, but when the engine is 'hot' the glow plug lights goes out too quickley due to the ambient temperature, and creats a false sense of well being.
When was she las serviced? When were the plugs last changed? If so what plugs?
If you do not the answer to any of these check them first.
Personally I use Bosch Duran plugs, they are about 15% more expensive than other but it is well worth it. I have had my 1995 305 DT for over 6 years and out over 60K on the clock (she's now on 165K) and NEVER missed a beat (execpt a head gasket, but they all go around 100 to 125K)
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you will need (this is just a recommendation) 8mm/12mm socket (with flex end on a 1/4 inch set) 12mm deep socket (on 3/8 set) 12mm spanner, 10mm spanner, 6mm allen key and a flat head screw driver (or a 7 (could be 8mm depending on build) socket.
The Haynes manual for these cars is very good, and well worth a purchase if you want to save money (Ebay, dirt cheap).
Alternatively, if you live anywhere near Leicestshire, let me know, I'm sure I sort you out....
laters
H
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thank you both for your information, i will buy some glow plugs tomorrow and give it a try.
im a complete novice mechanically, is it wise for me to attempt to fit these myself. can i do any damage if i do something wrong?
also, whats the top end on these 306 DTurbos (p reg) i could barely get 100mph, would this be related to the glow plugs, or something more serious? its clocking up 104,000 miles.
kind regards, damien
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This may be air getting into the fuel system. Use the primer and prime it well then immediately attemp to start it, If she fires up then you have a air leak somewhere, usually at the fuel filter or the primer bulb has gone porous. Regards Peter
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hi peter,
where would i find the primer? regards, damien
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The primer is the rubber "grenade" type looking object on the left hand side of the engine.
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also, whats the top end on these 306 DTurbos (p reg) i could barely get 100mph, would this be related to the glow plugs, or something more serious? its clocking up 104,000 miles.
Top end on these things as standard isn't much more than the ton - about 110 off the top of my head.
For all things pug why not check out www.psooc.co.uk - they're an equally friendly bunch as the peeps on here and quite a few people with DTurbo's too.
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Yes, sounds more like an air problem to me, rather than glow plugs. When you are cranking it, is there smoke coming out of the exhaust? The fuel primer is located on top of the Drivers side engine mount (just to the right of the drivers side suspension turret as you look under the bonnet). Pump it till it goes a bit harder and try to start again.
If you are a novice do not attempt the glow plugs. You will not have enough tools, and be put off car maintenance for ever! The fourth plug is behind the injection pump, and underneath a coolant pipe spigot which is easy to break off. Try the fuel primer first though, as I think this will give some results.
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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I would very strongly recommend checking that the immobiliser has enabled the fuel pump shutoff solenoid before you delve into the glowplugs or anything else - the fact that the engine wouldn't fire when hot rules out the glowplugs. If you have the dreadful keypad immobiliser, check all of the connectors, both at the pump and on the back of the keypad. Dismantle, apply plain vaseline to the pins, then mate and de-mate 5 times.
If you have the later transponder immobiliser, the fault will almost certainly be in the reader aerial coil connections, which live in a plastic moulding surrounding the ignition lock barrel. This is easy to fix - dismantle and separate carefully the two halves of the reader assembly moulding. Align the pins with respect to the socket on the pc board (Valeo solder the wires to the other end of the pins, which causes them to go out of line as the plastic softens). Clean the pins, apply vaseline, and file a bit off the moulding so that the connector engages fully. This job is easier than it sounds, but go carefully if you are not experienced with electronic assemblies.
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hi. thanks for all your help. im getting it sorted today hopefully. my uncle collected the car and hes a diesel mechanic by trade so hopefully he will pin this problem down. if not, its going to the garage along with my hard earned £££.
will keep you posted as to the outcome and thanks all again, great website!! damien
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Hello all,
Well my Uncle (diesel mechanic) has got it going. Some interesting discoveries made.
He bleeded the engine and warmed the plugs up three times by turning on and off and it started ok. However, it looks like someone has tampered with the engine before as theres wires/connections loose apparently.
He has said its probably due to the engine sucking in air, as they bled it and it started, which ties in nicely with earlier comments made on air leaks.
Is it quite easy to identify where the leak comes from or is a needle in a haystack jobby?
Will keep you posted on any developments. Kind regards, Damien
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Something else to add, the cold start cable was loose, they tightened it and it seems to start better. He did say he still has to warm the glow plugs up three times before trying to start though, though atleast it starts now.
I have two more questions.
1) about the cambelt, it was changed at 89k, three years ago, though the cars only done 104,000k today. Should i replace it because its been three years or has it got another 50k left in it.
2) from him looking in the engine i have been told the clutch is on its way out, probably got another 5k tops. dont know how he knows this but thats that. should i just get shut now or is a new clutch fairly minor/cheap to resolve?
Again, thanks for previous answers etc and look forward to your responses. God i love this site. Cheers damien
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If your pug has a Bosch fuel system, renew the fuel return pipes between each injector and to the pump from the injectors. If there is any hidden cracks letting air into the system, the fuel will drain back to the tank, causing servere starting problems.
This only happens to the Bosch system, the Lucas/cav system is not affected by these leaks.
Before you renew your Glow plugs, you should check to ensure the Glow plug Relay is working correctly by checking to see if have at least 10v at the plugs for approx 20secs or longer.
The cold start cable on both systems only advances the injection timing to ease starting, not as some think by giving more fuel.
As a course of service I would renew the Glow plugs anyway. If you have got the bosch system you will have to remove the intercooler as some of the plugs are pigs to get at, the Lucas system you can change them without removing the intercooler and use sockets and spanners as mentioned earlier for both systems.
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Key fob batteries, any ideas which part number? What type? anything. Kind regards, damien
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The keyfob batteries are standard CR2025's. You'll need two.
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It should cruise at 100mph without too much trouble - i reached 200kmh (124mph) a couple of times on the M1 late at night. If it was struggling to reach 100mph on the flat i'd say there's (another) problem looming IMO.
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Hi thanks for the batteries part no etc, very helpful. Well I had the car fixed and just drove it 30 miles trouble free. Started from cold first time, started when hot first time, excellent.
However, the 'Stop' warning light and the red dot at the right of the temp gauge came on after just 5 mins of driving and stayed on. Also, had to wait for 20 mins with the engine ticking over waiting to get out of a car parking space and smoke was coming out of the engine through the bonnet. ARGH.
Do you think this could be oil thats spilled on the engine whilst being repaired, or linked to the STOP light etc? Seems to me like fix one problem, creates another.
Off to ASDA to look for some batteries. Cheers all. Damien
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