Hi Folks,
How do I test drive an automatic to get a feel for the condition of the autobox?
I'm on the search for a large reliable cheap load lugger. The latest possibles are an Audi A6 2.0 SE (N plate, 130k miles) and an Audi 100 2.6 SE (K plate 102k miles). I'm happy enough with the prices being asked but in Honest Johns Car by Car breakdown he suggests to be aware that the autobox might be worn.
Is there anything in particular I can do while on the test drive that will give me some pointers? I know to check the ATF and the service history for fluid changes, and one of the cars has a tow bar fitted which I guess will have a bearing on condition, but has anyone got any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance
Sunshine
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Make sure the ATF fluid isn't brown and doesn't smell burnt. Not having driven either of those cars I can't advise on how they should behave, but check that they shift to every gear and that they shift up when you relax your foot on the accelerator. Check with the lever in every position, and make sure that Park actually holds the car. Test the kickdown. Do the gearchanges in general feel smooth?
I'm sure far more experienced people will be along in a minute or two. :)
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I'm sure far more experienced people will be along in a minute or two. :)
No doubt - but it's not me!
I just wondered how much you were looking to spend, and whether you really need an automatic. Personally, I would have thought that if reliability was one of your main concerns, you shouldn't be looking at cars that are 10 years old - unless, perhaps, Japanese ones.
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Hi,
Yes, I'm afraid it does have to be an automatic.
As for the reliability, that is a concern but the age of the car is dictated by the fact that essentially it needs to be cheap. Total budget (including my Golf as a trade in) will only be around £2400.
I've been looking for a while and I'm getting to the stage where I'm desperate for an estate. I cant keep on making two trips in the Golf when one trip in a large estate would do it.
All comments and suggestions (and offers of a free brand new estate car) welcome!
Cheers - Sunshine
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audi auto boxes should feel very smooth on the change unless you give them some stick then you should feel it but not too fierce. would recommend i've had a couple with no problems...cheers...keo
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Alternatively, with that sort of cash, you could go for something with a little less class but fewer miles. I think you get automatic Xsara estates - perhaps something along those lines?
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there are loads of volvo estates to be had for less money than you want to spend ,high mileage seems to be no problem and they are as reliable as you will get.after about 10 years old there just isnt much of a market for them ,I cant understand why.we always have an old volvo (now a 940)about as a spare supposidly but its always the car that everyone takes first .k reg bought at just under 100k miles for £950 although it is a manual and not very cool but who cares
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Hi Folks,
I do appreciate all these suggestions of other cars and I do value all your comments and recommendations.
Regardless of the car that I choose though, is there anything in particular to do during the Test drive to give me feedback on the state of the auto box...?
Thanks
Sunshine
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I would try to find how much lag the engine/gearbox combination has. Coast slowly up to a roundabout (or as if doing so) and then try for medium/fast acceleration - how many seconds before you get moving forwards any faster (rather than just engine/gear noise).
A long lag does not mean a faulty box but will be something that can give you some bad moments as a owner.
I have not driven a 4-cylinder auto without lag, and most 6-cylinder ones seem ok.
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With the old Audi auto boxes, check that the kickdown actually does work (seen a couple where they don't) but other then that they should be good.
I knew a network engineer who has an audi 100 (auto) with 270k miles on it. When I aksed him why someone who earns £40 per hour + callout drives an old car like that, he told me, because it's never let him down, why change it?
Also like the above poster says, you want to check the lag, both from rolling and from standstil, see how long it takes for the car to start putting power down from when you push the acelerator.
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Autoboxes vary quite considerably between different manufacturers and without considerable driving experience of a particular 'box it can be difficult to assess condition.
You can make the following basic tests:
1. Fluid - level and condition (it should be a clear pink - any discolouration or particles indicates major problems).
2. Changes - should be at the correct rpm/speed and should be crisp and smooth - no flaring (revs rise) during the change.
3. Gear engagement (from N into D and R) should be within 2 seconds, without a loud thump).
4. Kickdown - should be crsip and repeatable, without flaring.
5. Lockup-clutch - when the engine is warm drive the car so that the lock-up clutch engages and disengages - check that it does both without juddering.
6. Stall test. With hot transmission, put the front wheels against a high kerb (to 'chock' it) and *briefly* floor the throttle in 'D'. The torque convertor should stall-out at about 2000rpm +/- 300rpm for most 'boxes.
Personally I don't think the Audi auto is a particluarly good buy. You would be better to buy something like a Primera auto (Jatco 'box) or even a Subaru Legacy auto. Or even, dare I say it, a large Vauxhall estate auto!
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You'll find that a 2.0 engine in an A6 is pretty gutless. I've got a J-reg Audi 100 2.3 auto, and I wouldn't want a smaller engine. BTW if i were you I'd buy a slightly older car - the Audi 100s (same shape as the A6 you're after) go for from £500 on eBay, with 12 months MOT.
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"5. Lockup-clutch - when the engine is warm drive the car so that the lock-up clutch engages and disengages - check that it does both without juddering.
6. Stall test. With hot transmission, put the front wheels against a high kerb (to 'chock' it) and *briefly* floor the throttle in 'D'. The torque convertor should stall-out at about 2000rpm +/- 300rpm for most 'boxes."
Aprillia, you are ahead of me, can you explain a bit more, how does one detect the action of Lock-up clutch and Stall test.
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