ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - edlithgow

Just seen this suggestion, which IIRC I hadn't heard of or thought of before

The idea is to avoid losing the timing by splitting the old belt down the middle and cutting the outside half off, persuade the new belt halfway on, then cut the second half of the old one off and tap the new one home. .

Only had one Rubber Banded OHC and probably unlikely to have another, though I suppose it might come up in a 4-stroke outboard.

The car was a pain to change, but I can't remember anything specific on it offhand that would prevent this, though its probably not very easy.

Anyone tried this?

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - Xileno

No but I have heard of it. When I used to get my hands dirty I always liked to give what tensioned to belt a good inspection. I can't see how that can be done with the belt (or even half a belt) still on.

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - edlithgow

No but I have heard of it. When I used to get my hands dirty I always liked to give what tensioned to belt a good inspection. I can't see how that can be done with the belt (or even half a belt) still on.

Yes, that does seem to be a bit of a limitation

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - Andrew-T

The idea is to avoid losing the timing by splitting the old belt down the middle and cutting the outside half off, ...

I'm trying to imagine what contortions might be needed to cut a belt along the middle while it is fitted to a stationary engine. Reminds me of making a Moebius strip (which is a lot easier) :-)

But if it's possible to 'tap the new one home' next to the remaining half, why not do that without cutting it at all ?

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - edlithgow

"I'm trying to imagine what contortions might be needed to cut a belt along the middle while it is fitted to a stationary engine"

Easier than on a non-staionary engine, I would have thought...

Oh wait.... I suppose you could hold a blade fixed and run the engine past it at idle, if you were very brave/stupid, or if you were less brave and not so stupid, you might be able to devise something to hold the blade so you could keep your body parts well clear.

"But if it's possible to 'tap the new one home' next to the remaining half, why not do that without cutting it at all ?"

Because there wouldn't be room on the sprockets, I assume,

Edited by edlithgow on 31/07/2025 at 16:09

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - paul 1963

Used to be a dodge on ford pinto engines as far as I remember...

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - bathtub tom

Used to be a dodge on ford pinto engines as far as I remember...

They were simple enough to change, although how a a well known breakdown service managed to get it two teeth out (and how it managed to drive like that) I'll never understand.

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - edlithgow

Used to be a dodge on ford pinto engines as far as I remember...

I had a Pinto in a 1600 Transit (wherin it was too small). THINK I did the tappets, but didn't do anything major to it.

Was pretty sure it was a chain, but maybe there were both?

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - bathtub tom

I had a Pinto in a 1600 Transit (wherin it was too small). THINK I did the tappets,

Aah, the 'crow's foot spanner?'

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - focussed

I had a Pinto in a 1600 Transit (wherin it was too small). THINK I did the tappets,

Aah, the 'crow's foot spanner?'

I've still got one of those, and the 12 mm bi hex socket key driver for the cylinder head bolts for the 2 litre Pinto motor for the re-torque procedure.
ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - skidpan

Used to be a dodge on ford pinto engines as far as I remember...

I had a Pinto in a 1600 Transit (wherin it was too small). THINK I did the tappets, but didn't do anything major to it.

Was pretty sure it was a chain, but maybe there were both?

All Pintos were belt drive.

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - Andrew-T

<< "But if it's possible to 'tap the new one home' next to the remaining half, why not do that without cutting it at all ?"

Because there wouldn't be room on the sprockets, I assume, >>

Don't see this. Assuming the belt has been halved lengthwise, remove the outer half and replace it with the new belt. Then cut the remaining half anywhere and 'tap' the new belt into position ?

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - gordonbennet

Replacing in situ like this might seem a good idea, but, a well designed cambelt system will have timing marks, and any sprocket that might need removing will have Woodruff keys so can only be fitted in one spot, arguably the well designed cambelt will also only drive the camshafts via a tensioner and idler, hence no locking kits or other faff designed to stop the DIY motorist from saving several £hundred would be required.

By definition then most are poor designs (as any mechanic unfortunate enough to have to change one without timing marks will tell you), there will be other things being driven by the belt, which even if you are doing things on the cheap, ie fitting a new belt and no kit, still need to be checked by feel close inspection and spinning by hand to judge the state of idler/tensioner bearings and water pump, ideally a full cambelt kit should be fitted.

Therefore, fitting a new belt as suggested is realistically a temporary measure only.

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - edlithgow

Replacing in situ like this might seem a good idea, but, a well designed cambelt system will have timing marks, and any sprocket that might need removing will have Woodruff keys so can only be fitted in one spot, arguably the well designed cambelt will also only drive the camshafts via a tensioner and idler, hence no locking kits or other faff designed to stop the DIY motorist from saving several £hundred would be required.

By definition then most are poor designs (as any mechanic unfortunate enough to have to change one without timing marks will tell you), there will be other things being driven by the belt, which even if you are doing things on the cheap, ie fitting a new belt and no kit, still need to be checked by feel close inspection and spinning by hand to judge the state of idler/tensioner bearings and water pump, ideally a full cambelt kit should be fitted.

Therefore, fitting a new belt as suggested is realistically a temporary measure only.

I've only done 1 belt replacement on one car. I had removed the head to fix sparkplug hole damage, so this shortcut, if such it be, wasnt avaiable.

Both shaft bolts were insanely tight, and there was no provision for locking the shafts for bolt removal or replacement, beyond the ludicrous suggestion in the manual to jam it with a screwdriver, and no torque wrench access to the cam sprocket bolt, both problems requiring improvisation, fairly desperate improvisation for the first one.

It was a Regal PITA.

I got it back together and going around by hand apparently ok without interference, but I had some unfortunate thought about improving the measurement of the tension applied by the tensioner (which it turned out I didn;t have clearance for anyway) and did it again, and the second time it wasnt quite right, the belt sort of building up slack at one point in the rotation. Hard to explain and I'.m not sure how it happened, (maybe the tension was off) but it lwas somehow slightly out of phase and looked wrong, though still apparently without mechanical interference.

Next day, back at the car to take the belt off and try again the cops had towed it for overdue inspection, snatching defeat from the jaws of victory (maybe)

EVERYTHING ""is realistically a temporary measure only", but if my objective had been simply to change the cam belt and this trick had been available, I'm pretty sure I would have seriously considered it if I'd been aware of it.

Edited by edlithgow on 02/08/2025 at 13:28

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - edlithgow

<< "But if it's possible to 'tap the new one home' next to the remaining half, why not do that without cutting it at all ?"

Because there wouldn't be room on the sprockets, I assume, >>

Don't see this. Assuming the belt has been halved lengthwise, remove the outer half and replace it with the new belt. Then cut the remaining half anywhere and 'tap' the new belt into position ?

Er...IF you are doing it "without cutting it at all "(See above) you cant assume the belt has been halved lengthwise, because it cant be halved without cutting it

I can keep this up as long as you guys, and I have RIGHT on my side

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - Andrew-T

<< I can keep this up as long as you guys, and I have RIGHT on my side >>

So do I, Ed, because I think we are on the same side ?

ANY Rubber Banded OHC? - Longitudinally Split Old Cambelt to Replace? - edlithgow

<< I can keep this up as long as you guys, and I have RIGHT on my side >>

So do I, Ed, because I think we are on the same side ?

Thats not how sides work.