My 306 has developed a 'clonk' when pulling away and turning left hand bends. I have traced it to movement on the nearside track rod, the wear seems to be on the inner joint (the outer balljoint is new). Can a repair be made here? There is about 1mm (eg excessive) up/down movement if I grab the rod and move it. Is it going to be a Pug dealer job to get the parts??
Help!!
Ross
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I think that i have a similar problem, does your car seem to follow every detail of the road as well, or are you just experiencing the clonk?
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I am experiencing both. It needs corrections to keep it on the straight and narrow, very much like an old landrover with the steering box! (No not really *that* bad...) Just paid a visit to my Pug dealer and ordered a track rod, it comes with an inner joint and so hopefully this should cure it. £41 inc vat... ouch!
Looks like a right pain to replace it, its not covered in the Haynes (Take to a specialist) and so Im on my own!
Are you experiencing this in a 306 too?
Ross
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I don't know where you live, Ross_D, but if near Oxfordshire, I can thoroughly recommend Pug specialists Storm Autos, just outside Witney, who did the cambelt on my wife's 306. The also sourced a genuine Pug door mirror in next to no time, cheaper than I could get a pattern part closer to home. Nice people to do business with, too, to steal someone else's phrase.
If you're interested, say so here, and I'll dig out the contact details.
BTW SWMBO's 306 has just developed what I suspect to be the same clonk and tramlining tendency!
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Yes ross, I have a 306 DT (1995),
which track have you purchased, the inner? does this require the steering rack to be removed?
I have been though my haynes and the fault finding guided but it is not really helping, please can you confirm which track rod end you are replacing? did you Pug dealer recommend this part?
Cheers
H
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I have purchased the track rod, which comes complete with an inner joint. I agree with you over the haynes, it offers no help!! I'm going to try dismantling it in situ, if that doesnt work the rack will have to come out.
Its the inner joint I'm replacing, but you have to buy the whole track rod (from Peugeot at least...)
NOT looking forward to doing it at all.
Ross
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Right,
you have brought the entire rod, did you buy a new gater as well?
I was underneath mine last night and had a good look, I think the play I have is the inner joint as well.
After some though I would personally remove the entire rack, the haynes say\'s is a 4 spanner job, I say it looks very easy.
Let me know how you get on.
H
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No, I didnt get the gaiter, hopefully will be able to reuse the old one. Bad news is, I had another 'wiggle' of the joint today, I can detect wear in the rack too, so it looks as if it *could* be the bush (not replacable) in the rack itself. Wont know for sure until I get it apart though. The rack will have to come out, as its the nearside and I cant get to the nut to remove the power steering ram without removing it.
Doesn't help that being a student, I'm skint, so a new rack might have to be a low mileage one from the breakers ;-)
Will keep you posted.....
Ross
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Rack problems/wear on the 306 is rare.....
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Well, I dismantled the rack on the car today. I had to remove the power steering ram, what a dirty disgusting job!
I came to the following diagnosis:
The wear seems to be in the rack itself, no noticable wear on the inner track joint.
I couldn't undo the joint; it was covered with a rubber boot which in turn is joined to the stud for the ram. I couldn't see
any way of removing it, even after removing the gaiter.
Oh, and does anybody know an easy way of putting those little metal clips back together which Peugeot insist on using to hold the gaiters on?! If you've seen one you will know what I'm on about.
So conclusion: Took the car apart, couldn't get it completly apart and so gave up and put it all back together again (Minus that clip, peice of thick wire does just as well :-) )
Ross
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Ross - There is a special tool to remake those awful clip connections......
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Do you know where I could get one DL. I was nearly crying two years ago when I had to fit two new clips to the drive shaft gaiter on my Pug.
Reggie
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I look after several 306s, some high mileages, and not one has seen any serious steering rack wear. There is usually detectable play in the end of nearly any rack when a car is jacked up and you try hard to find it. This will not be an MOT failure and will not produce clonks.
Knocking and wandering can be caused by a *badly* worn outer track rod end...but the play is usually so obvious that the wheel can be moved half an inch at the outer edge.
What about lower arm bushes? They can produce this noise as powering away twists them in a slightly different position and gives a clonk.
Anti-roll bar drop links? Not usually related to turning though.
And my no.1 favourite. Might you have a broken spring, very close to the seat? I've seen quite a few of these recently and a clonk/boing as you pull away on a turn has been audible on every one.
Assuming the wandering is connected anything that puts the tracking out can cause this, including lower arm bushes. The last set of lower arm bushes I did on a ZX were so bad they allowed the strut to go out of alignment and the spring to just touch the inner wing spring turret...that went clonk as you turned at low speed.
Lots to think about!
Oh yes it is possible to do those clips with some small pliers and a sharp screwdriver...as long as you are happy to badly stab your hand on a 1 in 5 frequency basis.
M.M
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There is certainly wear in the rack of mine, and its excessive. It may have something to do with the lack of grease in it, when I removed the gaitor it was bone dry, no sign of *any* grease whatsoever!!
Track rod ends are newish (circa 5k miles) and have no play in. Same for droplinks. Springs are fine, front shocks were replaced about 10K miles ago, with new top mount bearings.
Went to my local breakers today, tried looking for the same play in all the 306's they had there. None. I ended up taking a rack from a low mileage one they had down there. Its also 3 years newer than mine too :-)
Don't, for one moment believe the Haynes manual when it says you can remove the rack through the righthand wheel arch. Its impossible without removing the ram and associated pipework. Luckily the car in the breakers was minus its engine, so I managed to get the rack out through the engine bay. Replacing mine will *not* be fun!
Thanks for all your comments and help, much appreciated. I'm sure I will be back soon bleating on about how I got on replacing it!!
Ross
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