Folks,
The current "challenge" is removal of 2 x 22mm head bolts on the Vx Monterey's caliper bracket. The caliper bracket(holding the caliper sliding bits) needs to come off in order to release the disc (which is well due for replacement).
Heat and 100ft/lbs++ makes no impact. The area has been sprayed with Plus Gas on several occasions over several days. The "blind end" is hidden behind the disc, so can't be accessed very easily.
The next move is use of an impact driver. I recall using one in the seventies, to not much effect. Has anyone used one and can recommend one? After that, it may be time to resort, reluctantly to a large bar. No, not one with beer taps on it.
Air impact wrench at Kwik Fit? Any other clues welcome.
Cheers
rg
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Go easy on the heat on the caliper.
Small impact driver is unlikely to be of much use. Air impact much more likely to do the job.
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Air impact gun is the only option here; the bolts are most probably locktited in.
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Go hire a 3/4 inch drive socket set. Make sure it has a good long t-bar in it and then get a 6 foot long steel tube to put over it. Get an assistant to hold everything steady whilst you apply steady traction to the end of the bar, gradually increasing the torque. Make sure you are pulling up on the bar using your legs (not your back), be ready to release as soon as the bolt releases and wear gloves & goggles.
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Had to use a scaffold bar on my Renault trafic wheel nuts when I changed the steering track rods.
I think that they were done up with a navvy on the end of a 32ft bar!
H
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Go hire a 3/4 inch drive socket set. Make sure it has a good long t-bar in it and then get a 6 foot long steel tube to put over it. Get an assistant to hold everything steady whilst you apply steady traction to the end of the bar, gradually increasing the torque. Make sure you are pulling up on the bar using your legs (not your back), be ready to release as soon as the bolt releases and wear gloves & goggles.
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Hi cyd{p},
What do you think will happen to your jaw or face when the scaffold tube comes up at a rapid rate to say hello.
Best idea is to push down on the tube, i.e. use your foot to push the bar while you hold on to the car for support, i use the same principle when undoing wheel nuts on lorries, much safer.
Pastyman..
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RG
I had the same problem on my Vectra a few years back. It was the offside front wheel; calliper held in place by two bolts which entered from the engine bay side of the calliper outwards.
No room to use such silly suggestions as a 6-foot anything under there... remember the wheel arch is not 6-foot diameter?
I in fact had to go out and buy an impact driver, and this was the only thing that sorted it out. IIRC it was about £20.
If that doesn't work, leave it to your local garage. Their problem if they screw it up.
Regards
Dom F
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"Their problem if they screw it up"
Granted.......but you'll still pay!
I agree with Dom, there might not be enough room to use a breaker bar and pole - therefore it might be worth a tenner to ask a garage with suitable air impact tools to crack the bolts off and to retighten them sufficiently for the car to be driven back home........allowing you to continue with the repairs.
This is commonplace with the very tight crankshaft pulley nut on Honda D16 engines, found in various Rover models. There is no way of shifting them manually (for the initial removal anyway)
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Careful Cyd, If you are undoing the O/S front calipier pulling up on the bat is tightening the bolt but we know what you mean. Regards Peter
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....It depends on which side of the brake disc the bolt is located........inboard (Where I think it is....) will be fine pulling up....whereas outboard (Uncommon) will be as you say Peter.
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Folks,
Some jobs seem to grow in my mind the more I think about them.
And then turn out to be quick and easy.
A 24" 1/2" drive bar sorted these bolts out without any drama. It is amazing what extra power comes from a lightly longer bar. I'm sure that there is someone with the 3rd year physics formula about to tell us just how much.
Just for the record, minimal corrosion, and no sign of locking fluid used. It seemed that the factory had simply torqued them up to around 200 ft/lbs and used locking washers.
There is nothing quite like the "ping" when a large bolt frees off.
Thanks, everyone, for the suggestions.
rg
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In this application, I think you will struggle if the unit is still on the vehicle.
What I would do is try to remove the whole assembly and get some force applied on the bench.
I recognise this is a much bigger job, and will result in a lot more dismantling but if you can get the whole hub, disc, caliper assembly off the car and support it in a vice, things which appear immoveable seem to get persuaded.
Good luck.
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Had to use an impact driver to get the door hinge screws out on my Beetle, managed to disintigrate 2, luckily the guy in the tool shop just exchanged them, still the third is nearly u/s, he suggested I should try hitting it lighter!
tried the scaffold pole trick first didn't work, just a lot of grunting from me and my dad.
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Success !! I'm surprised you did not sheer the 1/2 drive off. ??
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