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I have a astra 1.4i 94, when cold it idles at exactly 1000 revs then settles down to 700 revs, my problem is that the when i engage 1st gear and without touching the gas pedal the cars moves after depressing the clutch down the tacho reads 2000 revs then settles down to 700revs is that normal?
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Sorry sajid, but I have difficulty with your post - sometimes a lack of punctuation can make the sense of it ambigious - I am not crticising (I only have one language and I'm rubbish at that!!).
If you are saying with the clutch fully depressed and 1st gear selected, that the car moves = then you have a clutch problem. It sounds as though the clutch may require adjustment as it is not fully 'disengaging'. Has it been installed recently?
When exactly do the engine revs rise to 2000rpm - when the engine is cold or when depressing the clutch at any engine temperature?
Idle at normal operating temperature should be around 700 and it will rise to around 1500 for a short while, when the engine is cold (if I recall correctly) - There should be an expert along in a while to verify that - I am not an expert!!
Good luck!
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The clutch is ok, its only when i fully let go of the clutch that the car without any assistance from my right foot will move, its when you depress it again that the revs rises to 2000 and settle down to 750 after a few secs that worries me, because when you turning in a tight gap to park that i find i have to depress the footbrake, i wonder if its to do with the choke or some sort of load sensor which the ecu is sensing.
Another prob is the lack of dashboard lights to warn when i apply the handbrake, and the demister switch works but the light does not indicate if its on, also the glovebox light does not work but the bulb is ok, must be loose connection somewhere...
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Hi
Okay got you.
There is an auto choke type function. I will look in the Haynes to see if I can find anything useful.
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Handbrake warning light - on my Astra the handbrake can be pulled up and the light not come on. With the handbrake still on knock the lever to the left and there is a click and the light comes on. I suspect the switch is loose, but now I've got used to pulling the handbrake up slightly to the left to get it to come on. Given time and inclination I'll check it out properly one day.
Demister light in Switch - same problem here - I suspect the bulb has gone but haven't got round to testing it yet. I think it's seperate from the others, but as the two bulbs in the lower section of the console are also out I can't really check them. Seems a bit fiddly to take the radio out etc to get to them out from behind the centre console.
Chris TD
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Hi Chris
I think you need to either start a new thread or reply to an existing one that is relevant to your point. I assume you did not intend to relate this experience with idle speed problems.
NormanB
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Chris
Can I offer my apologies - unreservedly. I now see why you posted! DOH!!
NormanB
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Sajid
Bad news I am afraid.
I have just read the Haynes manual in some detail. You have either the Multec single-point fuel injection system or the Multec multi-point system.
Essentially this is beyond DIY although there are a few simple things to try before you submit to the professionals.
For elimination purposes you should check that the air cleaner element is clean, the crankshaft ventilation hoses are clear, all the wiring connectors in place and all vacuum hoses connected and in good condition.
It is then down to the Electronic Control Unit or components (like the idle speed control motor), there are no user adjustments. You will need either a dealer or a specialist to read the codes if any to diagnose. Andrew Moorey on this forum I believe is so equipped.
As I said I am no expert and this is all I can offer you.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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You will need either a dealer or a specialist to read the codes if any to diagnose.
If you go here, you can do it yourself.
www.topbuzz1.carenthusiasts.co.uk/info/fault_codes...m
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Thanks Dave - I was hoping there would be an expert along;-)
Great link - I have filed that for future reference.
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The clutch is ok, its only when i fully let go of the clutch that the car without any assistance from my right foot will move, its when you depress it again that the revs rises to 2000 and settle down to 750 after a few secs that worries me,
This is perfectly normal. You\'re putting a load on the engine by lifting the clutch in gear, and as you haven\'t touched the throttle the car\'s ecu electronics take over and increase the engine revs to help prevent stalling and to also try and maintain the 700 rpm. You then dip the clutch just as the engine revs increase, and as there is no more engine load, the revs shoot up. Unfortunately you\'re just gonna have to be a bit more gentle with the clutch. ie, slip it a little bit more when you\'re parking. That\'s not meant to sound patronising, but if you lift the clutch up too fiercely, then this is what happens.
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Spot on DD. My Cavalier does exactly the same thing. It also applies when stopping if you put the clutch down a little later than normal. As you say its the ECU trying not to let you stall it.
Take care parking - I nearly launched it into the garage doors once as I was pulling into the drive it was revving itself and I got my foot stuck under the brake between the accelerator pedal, luckily I stopped it on the handbrake!
I would be very surprised if anything could be done to 'fix' this 'problem' so don't spend any money on it.
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How would I know which injection system I have, also as stated maybe its normal for vauxhall cars to let the ecu prevent it from stalling but like you said mike is that normal for other makes, to stop you from stalling, I find it dangerous as the last car I had was honda civic 1985 1.3 with manual choke if i stalled it stalled...
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How would I know which injection system I have,
More than likely the GM-Multec MPi, but if you use the link I posted above, the fault codes are the same as for the GM-Multec CFi anyway.
also as stated maybe its normal for vauxhall cars to let the ecu prevent it from stalling but like you said mike is that normal for other makes, to stop you from stalling, I find it dangerous as the last car I had was honda civic 1985 1.3 with manual choke if i stalled it stalled...
Rather than just letting the car tickover when you lift the clutch, apply a small amount of throttle and slip the clutch when manouvering. It's really a case of throttle and clutch control really. We were all taught that when we learnt to drive. By applying a small amount of throttle will overcome the problem of the ecu trying to keep the engine ticking over and thus preventing the revving you're currently getting by loading the engine at tickover.
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