£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
Hi all,

So after the issues I’ve had with my Focus it’s time to replace it.

I did ask HJ what he would suggest at my £6,000ish budget and he suggested a Honda Civic.

Looking locally I can only find mainly 1.6 and 2.2 I-DTECs with 70-90k on them. There’s the odd 1.8, which is my preference but one hasn’t been serviced since 2017 and the other is poverty spec.

So do I go with getting one of the diesels? All of which are in good condition with FSH or do I look at other models? I can see that I can get a fairly low mileage Astra in my budget...

Requirements are it needs to be Focus sized and reliable to do 60+ miles a day.

Thanks

Craig
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - badbusdriver
Hi all, So after the issues I’ve had with my Focus it’s time to replace it. I did ask HJ what he would suggest at my £6,000ish budget and he suggested a Honda Civic. Looking locally I can only find mainly 1.6 and 2.2 I-DTECs with 70-90k on them. There’s the odd 1.8, which is my preference but one hasn’t been serviced since 2017 and the other is poverty spec. So do I go with getting one of the diesels? All of which are in good condition with FSH or do I look at other models? I can see that I can get a fairly low mileage Astra in my budget... Requirements are it needs to be Focus sized and reliable to do 60+ miles a day. Thanks Craig

First, and most obvious thought for me, is to look outwith your immediate area. I don't really understand this thing with some folk about only buying local 'in case something goes wrong'. With most used cars, best you are going to get is a 1 year warranty, which in all honesty, is not really going to be worth the paper its written on if something big goes wrong. The seller WILL find some way to wriggle out of their obligations. I'd much, much rather go 300 miles to get a good example of the car i want rather than get one round the corner which is either not as good, or a different make/model of car altogether. You will struggle to find a more reliable car for that money than a Civic and on top of that, it has a great combination of performance, economy, space and practicality.

It is also very well equipped, so i am a bit baffled by the use of the term 'poverty spec'?. For the 2012> Civic, bottom of the range 'S', includes alloy wheels, electric mirrors, electric windows all round and climate control. The >2012 equivalent model (SE) is pretty much the same except air-con instead of climate control. What do you feel you need that is not included in that spec?.

In the interest of covering the question, other (petrol powered) reliable options are, in no particular order, Toyota Auris, Ford Focus (1.6, not the 1.0 ecoboost), Mazda 3, Kia Cee'd, Hyundai i30. Astra should be OK as long as it is a petrol you are looking at.

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
Well I currently have a titanium spec Focus and it’d be quite a step down to an SE Civic, ideally I’d want ES spec but there isn’t many.

As for features I definitely couldn’t do without Bluetooth and cruise control too, both of which the SE doesn’t have!

It’s funny you’ve mentioned the 1.6 Focus in your list too! As that’s the one I have! It’s cost me £1300 in repairs in the last 2 months and it’s still cutting out. I think I must’ve just got a lemon here.
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - bazza

You could always upgrade to a bluetooth system if it's important, but at a cost no doubt. I have an se and I don't find it lacking anything to be honest, though I admit I'm not so bothered about such things, although I'd rather like a reversing camera! But it's a nice car, does the job well and last tank 51mpg on a run.

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - SLO76
“As for features I definitely couldn’t do without Bluetooth and cruise control too, both of which the SE doesn’t have!”

If you buy solely for such items you'll eliminate the bulk of potential good purchases. Buy on condition, history and mileage before such fripperies. You can live without them, especially cruise control which is a dangerous and unnecessary gadget in the UK with our congested roads. It drives me mad when people don’t adjust their speeds according to their situation because they’re bumbling along on cruise control with their mind off the job at hand. I’d ban it.
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
“As for features I definitely couldn’t do without Bluetooth and cruise control too, both of which the SE doesn’t have!” If you buy solely for such items you'll eliminate the bulk of potential good purchases. Buy on condition, history and mileage before such fripperies. You can live without them, especially cruise control which is a dangerous and unnecessary gadget in the UK with our congested roads. It drives me mad when people don’t adjust their speeds according to their situation because they’re bumbling along on cruise control with their mind off the job at hand. I’d ban it.

But the speed limiter function of cruise control is very handy plus in average speed cameras cruise control is very useful! You could use your same argument against most driver aids in my opinion too.
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - paul 1963

Well my friend you asked the question and received some excellent advice.....over to you now!

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - paul 1963

double post.....

Edited by paul 1963 on 05/04/2019 at 10:36

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - Andrew-T

<< But the speed limiter function of cruise control is very handy plus in average speed cameras cruise control is very useful! You could use your same argument against most driver aids in my opinion too. >>

You are clearly the kind of owner that places high value on toys, bells and whistles. That's your choice of course, but remember that they add to the original cost of a car but are often an unrecoverable cost on resale (I realise you aren't buying new). And in addition they represent more things to go wrong. Anyhow you have had your advice above, so again - your choice.

Edited by Andrew-T on 05/04/2019 at 12:37

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
Thanks all.

I’ll consider the SE but I do think I’ll be disappointed with it. Even the stereos have only 4 speakers and I presume like my old Civic they’ll be fairly weak.

Are the 1.6/2.2 i-DTECs that bad that I need to avoid them completely?
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - Engineer Andy
Thanks all. I’ll consider the SE but I do think I’ll be disappointed with it. Even the stereos have only 4 speakers and I presume like my old Civic they’ll be fairly weak. Are the 1.6/2.2 i-DTECs that bad that I need to avoid them completely?

No - I think BBD's point was more a general one about buying older cars well out of their original warranty. Honda diesel engines tend to be amongst the most reliable/hardy and have some of the least amounts of issues with their DPFs amonst all similar spec diesel engines around.

In addition, what we're trying to say is that the more (electrical) gizmos you have on a car, especially ones out of warranty (particularly over 6yo), the greater chance in those gizmos going wrong, thus you're taking a far higher risk than with a slightly newer but lower specced car - less to go wrong, and newer. Bear in mind that electrics can be expensive to fix, and if you just leave it (because, say, you can't afford to fix it), then that extra you spent on such gimzos were wasted.

If you want more gizmos, save up a bit more to get one. Bear in mind you'll also pay more in insurance for higher spec cars too, and they also come with other components that cost more (and don't last as long as lower specced ones), such as wider, lower profile tyres plus matching alloys. All too often people buy flasy older cars they can't afford to run (other than the fuel and perhaps insurance) - one or two problems and they can't afford to fix them/replace expensive bits that fail/wear out.

IMHO, buying older second hand normally means having to compromise on quite a bit except the engineering quality, condition and maintenance record.

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - Andrew-T
Even the stereos have only 4 speakers and I presume like my old Civic they’ll be fairly weak.

'Only 4 speakers' ? That is more than my (admittedly average) domestic hi-fi. Are you trying to avoid hearing anything from the outside world? There must be limits to the totality of surround sound. Personally I don't see the point of super hi-fi in a vehicle which will be contributing plenty of its own noise, unless it is stationary with the engine off ....

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
Even the stereos have only 4 speakers and I presume like my old Civic they’ll be fairly weak.

'Only 4 speakers' ? That is more than my (admittedly average) domestic hi-fi. Are you trying to avoid hearing anything from the outside world? There must be limits to the totality of surround sound. Personally I don't see the point of super hi-fi in a vehicle which will be contributing plenty of its own noise, unless it is stationary with the engine off ....

I’m a bit of an audiophile and I like a decent stereo. It’s silly I know but when you spend 3 hours a day in your car you kind of like to have niceties. The Focus has 9 speakers and the sound quality is great, especially on the motorway it drowns out most road noise. I used to have an 8g Civic and the speakers on that were weak as anything, lacked clarity and bass. Even a 2013 BMW 320d SE that I borrowed a few weeks ago had an awful stereo and speakers.
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - privateinvestor

Buy a 1-2 owner car with a full documented service history: Buy Honda or Toyota. and make sure its petrol at least Euro 5 if not 6. HOnd Civiic 2012 onwards 1.8 IVTEC is good (new shape)

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - gordonbennet

You can find what you want, but as above you must be prepared to travel a long way, maybe several times, only to be disappointed when you get there and find it's a ill-described rubbish.

This is the penalty you pay for wanting certain combinations, i should know because our cars are fairly rare, Landcruiser and Forester XT, and i/we have made numerous long journeys to buy only to be on our way back 10 minutes later without so much as unlocking the doors.

If you have decent mechanical knowledge it helps, because unless you buy from a linked chain dealership any warranty work will mean travelling back and forth to return the car, assuming its driveable.

The best bargains are going to be private purchases, and these definately need some mechanical nous because it's sold as seen rules here, and an eye/ear for tricksters is useful too.

I find ebays ads good, with the right zoomable pics you can check the tyres wheels and brake disc conditions, i've found over the years that cars with well maintained brakes sitting on a good set of matching tyres tend to be worth looking at, whilst those with uncared for brakes/tyres/wheels is usually reflected in all over vehicle negligence, don't take too much notice of polished turd bodywork.

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - badbusdriver

You can live without them, especially cruise control which is a dangerous and unnecessary gadget in the UK with our congested roads. It drives me mad when people don’t adjust their speeds according to their situation because they’re bumbling along on cruise control with their mind off the job at hand. I’d ban it.

Much as i respect most of what you say, and agree with most of your suggestions, i disagree entirely with this statement SLO.

Firstly, people who are not paying attention to the task of driving are going to be doing so with or without cruise control. I don't see any way that cruise control can be described as dangerous, unless you are already a bad or incompetent driver, in which case it is not the cruise control that is the problem.

Although i first experienced cruise control working at a Saab dealer in the 90's, it wasn't until Stagecoach brought in a fleet of Volvo B7 coaches that i started using cruise control on a regular basis. And frankly it was a boon, in quite a few different circumstances, not least of which was maintaining 30mph in certain situations. For example, if doing a run into Aberdeen you have a straight run of about 2.5 miles at a 30mph limit and when the roads are quiet in the evening it is very easy for the speed to creep up, so set the cruise control to 30mph. It is a similar situation in both the town i live, and the one half way to Aberdeen, where there is a long stretch with a 30mph limit. Out on the main roads, i would also pretty much always be using the cruise control on the bus

Another example is my wife. She gets painful cramps in her feet if she has to keep them in the same position for long periods, so were it not for cruise control, she wouldn't be able to drive very far at all. Being able to stretch, or move your foot around from time to time, makes for a much more comfortable journey, which in turn IMO, would make the driver safer, not less safe, as you wouldn't have the distraction of your discomfort.

You don't like cruise control and that is fair enough, it's your choice. But it is just that, a choice, and to suggest that others, such as myself, who use (properly) and very much appreciate cruise control are dangerous, is just wrong.

Back to the thread though, and because of how much i like and use cruise control, i completely understand why the OP would be specifically wanting a car with it. I have mentioned a few times on the forum about how i have been thinking about opting out of of the Motability car my wife gets, in favour of buying an older car instead. Having cruise control would be a key factor in the choice, to the extent that i have looked into companies who will fit an aftermarket cruise control system. But i also know that certain versions of the Nissan Note 1.6 auto do have it fitted as standard equipment (along with electronic folding mirrors, which would also be desirable due to the narrowness of my street).

As for the bluetooth, not really something i am bothered about, but things like this can be bought for very little,

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wireless-Bluetooth-FM-Transmitt...e

Edited by badbusdriver on 06/04/2019 at 14:53

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - SLO76
“You don't like cruise control and that is fair enough, it's your choice. But it is just that, a choice, and to suggest that others, such as myself, who use (properly) and very much appreciate cruise control are dangerous, is just wrong.”

Surprised you think that being a bus driver yourself bbd. I witness on a daily basis inappropriate use of cruise control with people creeping past my bus in the fast lane while I’m indicating to pull out instead of putting the foot down adjusting their speed and overtaking which is solely what the other lanes are for. Instead they sit there oblivious to the fact they’re blocking slower moving vehicles from moving out to overtake themselves. I’ve seen a big increase in this as cruise control became more widespread.

With only a 6mph margin over trucks a coach has to sneak up behind then overtake when quite close otherwise they cause a tailback as they block the outside lane. I’m constantly being blocked by people who dawdle in the overtaking lane with cruise control set to 65mph and who refuse to adjust their speed.

I also firmly believe that it does slow down response time in an emergency. It takes a split second longer to lift your foot from rest on the floor plus you begin to slow immediately as your foot comes off the accelerator if you don’t have or use cruise control. That split second can make all the difference.

I accept the relevance of it on a long three or more lane motorway but it’s of no use on typical UK single and dual carridge roads. I hate it, never use it and I see regular issues caused by it. You’re right it is just my opinion but I believe it’s a danger and largely useless in the UK. Even the adaptive cruise control on our buses is pointless. It’s forever getting confused. I’ll stick to my old right foot, it’s yet to fail me.

Edited by SLO76 on 06/04/2019 at 19:23

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - badbusdriver

Surprised you think that being a bus driver yourself bbd. I witness on a daily basis inappropriate use of cruise control with people creeping past my bus in the fast lane while I’m indicating to pull out instead of putting the foot down adjusting their speed and overtaking which is solely what the other lanes are for. Instead they sit there oblivious to the fact they’re blocking slower moving vehicles from moving out to overtake themselves. I’ve seen a big increase in this as cruise control became more widespread.

You can't possibly know who is or is not using cruise control. I often see overtaking manoeuvres on single carriageway roads where the overtaker is just creeping past at a slightly faster speed. I very much doubt they are using cruise control, i think they are just basing their speed on the limit, i.e., 60mph (overtaking another vehicle doing 55mph). If i am overtaking in such circumstances, i would inevitably end up going past 60mph to get back into my side of the road as quickly as possible, but not everyone thinks like that. The car drivers you see 'preventing' you from pulling out are under no obligation to do so and without having been a truck or bus driver, would (understandably) have no ability to look at the situation from your perspective. I feel you may be seeing things which aren't there and these people are just going about their journey at the speed they choose. That they are not 'helping' you, i'm sure under most instances, is not due to any deliberate action, and while (in your view) inconsiderate, it certainly isn't dangerous.

I also firmly believe that it does slow down response time in an emergency. It takes a split second longer to lift your foot from rest on the floor plus you begin to slow immediately as your foot comes off the accelerator if you don’t have or use cruise control. That split second can make all the difference.

Maybe under certain circumstances, but again, mainly through not paying enough attention to your surroundings. But consider this, when driving using cruise control, i often have my foot next to the brake pedal. So were something to suddenly happen in front of me, i'd definately be able to hit the brakes before someone with their foot on the throttle pedal could. Maybe not much quicker, but as you correctly point out, that split second can make all the difference. Also, if you were (for example) going through a section of roadworks with a 40 or 50mph limit and average speed cameras, the the extra concentration you put into making sure you do not exceed that limit with your foot on the throttle pedal would be something which would reduce your awareness on what is going on around you, which in turn would reduce your reactions if something happens. Probably wouldn't be a big difference, but again, that split second could make all the difference.

Like i said before, it is your choice whether or not you like or use cruise control. It may be your opinion that people like myself who use cruise control (quite happily and safely) are a danger on the road, but that doesn't make it fact.

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - Avant

Getting back to the original question: Craig, if you're doing 60+ miles a day, there's no need to avoid the diesel. I believe that the Honda 2.2 is one of the more reliable diesel engines.

You could also shortlist a Skoda Octavia or SEAT Leon - the 1.4 petrol engine is more economical than some diesels. Or a Toyota Auris - not very exciting to drive but likely to be reliable.

Don't go too far afield but looking within 50 or so miles of home should give you plenty of choice.

Extras like cruise control are nice to have - I use mine a lot, SWMBO hates it - but it's important at your budget level not to make them too much of a priority. It's got to be condition and service history.

Edited by Avant on 07/04/2019 at 00:51

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
Thanks all. By locally I actually meant 40 miles, which is as far as I’m willing to travel.

Although I have been further afield I have a 10 month old daughter now, so taking full days out looking for cars is no longer an option.

I’ll have another look around for some of the suggestions too. Are the 1.4 VAG engines okay these days? As I know there was an issue with the chains of them in Golfs.
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - Sprice

My last car was a leased 9th gen 2014 Civic 1.6 diesel which I had for 84k trouble free miles and it averaged over my ownership about 70 mpg (calculated brim-brim, not computer). These are pretty reliable cars, I never had any DPF issues so I doubt you would with your intended use. These don't have many issues in general, one or two complaints of failing injectors at about 80k miles and juddering clutches when the cars are cold, but in all reliable for a diesel.

Current car is an 09 plate 8th gen Civic 1.8 petrol. I really like this too, but make no mistake, they don't have the comfiest ride - this is where the 9th gen fares much better -this averages just over 40 mpg, the best I've had for a tank is 52 mpg (again, calculated). The 8th gen 2.2 diesel does seem to have more problems than the 1.8, notably clutch wear, some timing chain issues (which could be attributed to using poor oil, extended change periods etc), but they don't seem to have vastly greater economy than the 1.8, but will have far more in gear performance, plus none of the 8G 2.2's have a DPF, unlike this engine when fitted to early 9G's.

Bluetooth, cruise etc should be on pretty much all 9th gens, on the 8th gens, go for a 09 model year facelift on to have an integrated USB and aux - you can tell the facelift cars from the little "nostrils" on the front perspex grill and the reverse lights are slightly longer than pre-facelift cars. Some 8th gens can have issues with rust on the leading edge of the roof where it meets the windscreen, many have been resprayed under warranty. ES / EX spec 8th gens will have cruise and later models even had infotainment screens. For your budget you can have a very late model 8th gen, or an early 9th gen (just in budget I'd guess), but the civinfo forum is a good resource if you wish to check out any pitfalls.

Edited by Sprice on 07/04/2019 at 10:47

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - SLO76
Where do you stay roughly? I’m sure a few of us will be happy to have a look and make a few local suggestions.
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
Where do you stay roughly? I’m sure a few of us will be happy to have a look and make a few local suggestions.

Thanks! I’m in Bury, North Manchester.

Edited by iFocus on 07/04/2019 at 12:28

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
So I’ve had a look about and I’ve narrowed my search down to the following vehicles:

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20190322616...9

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20190304553...9

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20190304552...6

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20181026186...8

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20190202454...0

Can I get any opinions on the above? Or am I missing anything glaringly obvious on any of them?
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
Anyone?
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - SLO76
Sorry I meant to reply on this but forgot all about it.

How were you financing this purchase? Are you buying via dealer finance? Is it savings and thus the strict £6k limit?

What I’d suggest if you’re basing your budget on the dealers finance figures would be to borrow £7,500 or more from your bank at the typical 3% APR which will cost little if any more than borrowing £5k at the rates some of these dealers are quoting. Buy a newer lower mileage preferably approved used example of the Civic instead of a high mileage car that’s on the cusp of 100,000 miles and possibly heading for big bills and will plummet in value as it hits six figures. The Kia is fine too but they tend to sell on price alone used so it’ll be much harder to sell on and be worth less.

Edited by SLO76 on 12/04/2019 at 23:15

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
Sorry I meant to reply on this but forgot all about it. How were you financing this purchase? Are you buying via dealer finance? Is it savings and thus the strict £6k limit? What I’d suggest if you’re basing your budget on the dealers finance figures would be to borrow £7,500 or more from your bank at the typical 3% APR which will cost little if any more than borrowing £5k at the rates some of these dealers are quoting. Buy a newer lower mileage preferably approved used example of the Civic instead of a high mileage car that’s on the cusp of 100,000 miles and possibly heading for big bills and will plummet in value as it hits six figures. The Kia is fine too but they tend to sell on price alone used so it’ll be much harder to sell on and be worth less.

I’ll be funding the purchase with savings hence the budget, I can go slightly over £6000 for the perfect car. Also I’ll be intending to keep this car for as long as possible; I was going to try and do that with the Focus but with all of the problems and ongoing problems it’s not possible. So basically I’m not concerned with resale value, it just has to be reliable. I really regret selling my old Ceed 18 months ago as that was on 130,000 miles and only cost me in wear and tear, but an accident took that off the road.
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - SLO76
As much as I have faith in Honda diesels i wouldn’t be buying a high mileage example with longterm ownership in mind, I’d personally favour a more reliable, less complex and lower mileage 1.8 petrol here or I’d spend more to get a lower mileage diesel. The 1.6 is the better more economical engine but the 2.2 pulls like a train and will still do mid 50’s to the gallon. It’s just purely by design that diesels are vastly more complex and thus likely to go expensively wrong. It’s also vital they receive the correct oil which all too often non-franchise garages just bung any old thing in. A dealer history car is worth paying extra for.

Nothing wrong with the Kia either both are good choices. It’s twin the Hyundai i30 is often a bit cheaper used and is very worthy too. You need to get out viewing and buy on condition and history. You’ve greater freedom with the worry of depreciation removed.

Spotted these...

Auto Trader:

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20180824981...6

Auto Trader:

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20190323618...7

Auto Trader:

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20190411684...7



Edited by SLO76 on 13/04/2019 at 09:04

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
As much as I have faith in Honda diesels i wouldn’t be buying a high mileage example with longterm ownership in mind, I’d personally favour a more reliable, less complex and lower mileage 1.8 petrol here or I’d spend more to get a lower mileage diesel. The 1.6 is the better more economical engine but the 2.2 pulls like a train and will still do mid 50’s to the gallon. It’s just purely by design that diesels are vastly more complex and thus likely to go expensively wrong. It’s also vital they receive the correct oil which all too often non-franchise garages just bung any old thing in. A dealer history car is worth paying extra for. Nothing wrong with the Kia either both are good choices. It’s twin the Hyundai i30 is often a bit cheaper used and is very worthy too. You need to get out viewing and buy on condition and history. You’ve greater freedom with the worry of depreciation removed. Spotted these... Auto Trader: www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20180824981...6 Auto Trader: www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20190323618...7 Auto Trader: www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20190411684...7

Thank you SLO! Much appreciated.

The last one is very local to me, so I'll go and have a look at that later today.

I too prefer the 1.8 but petrols seem to hold their value better than diesels, presumably there are less about as people hold on to them and the ULEZ stuff about at the moment is probably killing the resale value of diesels; not that this bothers me.

My only concern with having a Euro 5 diesel is how long is it before I'll be 'banned' from driving around the M60...?

I've also spotted this one, that is also local and it has a full history (Honda for the first 3 and indy for the remaining according to the dealer).

www.brimartmotors.co.uk/used-cars/honda-civic-2-2-...5

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - SLO76
Looks ok and the 2.2 is a good motor if cared for. Does have a DPF and is more prone to problems with this than the newer 1.6 but the biggest worry is the clutch which really isn’t up to the job of dealing with the diesels torque so look for severe clutch judder and check for slipping.

The 1.8 petrol is popular because it has no vices. It goes well, it’s smooth, it’s decent on fuel and never goes wrong.
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
Went to see the 2.2 earlier and it seemed like a decent car, FSH to 59,000.

Couple of dents and couldn’t detect any noise from the clutch. Although I’m not sure what to look for?
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - SLO76
You’re looking for severe judder when cold and check the biting point isn’t too high on the pedal which indicates a worn clutch. Shouldn’t make any noise but thrust bearings aren’t unheard of on big mileage cars but it’s highly unlikely at 59k.
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
You’re looking for severe judder when cold and check the biting point isn’t too high on the pedal which indicates a worn clutch. Shouldn’t make any noise but thrust bearings aren’t unheard of on big mileage cars but it’s highly unlikely at 59k.

Thanks SLO! It definitely didn’t have any of that. My only concern was over the last few years is it’s done 8-9,000 miles each year and I’m wondering if the DPF is okay? No warning lights on the dash other than a tpms error...?
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - FiestaOwner
No warning lights on the dash other than a tpms error...?

Noticed that on the photo's too. Bit concerned that they haven't resolved this fault, can't help wondering they'll try to sell it without fixing this fault. If the tyres just need inflating, surely they would have done that before taking the photo's.

It can be an MOT fail on vehicles equipped with TPMS from 2012 onwards. The MOT Testers manual is a bit ambiguous on this point though (Section 5):

(h) Tyre pressure monitoring system:

i. malfunctioning or tyre obviously under-inflated Minor

ii. obviously inoperative Major

It's a red warning light on the dash, which could mean a system fault (Inoperative). The lights I've seen on cars to indicate a low pressure have been yellow!

Now you've seen the car and know it's reg number, have you checked out it's MOT history?

Edit: Just spotted that it's got a yellow light on the dash and a red symbol on the info screen, don't know how an MOT tester will interpret that! I would want to see that it had been resolved before handing over any money.

Edited by FiestaOwner on 14/04/2019 at 09:06

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - badbusdriver

No warning lights on the dash other than a tpms error...?

I wouldn't get too excited about the TPMS warning just yet, they maybe just haven't looked in the manual!. When the TPMS warning came on in our Jazz, i mistakenly assumed simply topping up the air would put it out. But no, you have to reset it through the onboard computer thingy, and that was a real faff, took me ages!. Of course, for all i know, this may be the case for all of these systems?.

But anyway, before writing the car off for this, maybe just ask the garage?

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - Sprice

Agreed, the TPMS came on my 2014 Civic a couple of times, if there's a slight pressure discrepancy between some of the tyres, the car will register this as an anomaly in rolling radius and flag the light. It will also come on when a tyre or two have been changed.

Make sure pressures are as per the plaque inside door-jamb, then reinitialise via the on board computer using the steering wheel controls. Note, on later models the 'reinitialise' option disappears when the car is moving, and ISTR that on earlier 9th gen models, a lot of options in the menu disappear when the car moves and are only visible when stationary; this was a criticism at the time and was rectified on 'circa' post 2013 cars. If you do look at any 9th gen petrol 1.8's, note there seems to be an occurrence of excess oil consumption that affected some 2012 models, luckily these cars and the 8th gen have both low oil level and oil pressure warnings. You also state in an earlier post about cruise control being a must, the red 2.2D car in the link doesn't have this, but I'm sure you already know this.

Edited by Sprice on 14/04/2019 at 11:39

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - FiestaOwner

No warning lights on the dash other than a tpms error...?

I wouldn't get too excited about the TPMS warning just yet, they maybe just haven't looked in the manual!. When the TPMS warning came on in our Jazz, i mistakenly assumed simply topping up the air would put it out. But no, you have to reset it through the onboard computer thingy, and that was a real faff, took me ages!. Of course, for all i know, this may be the case for all of these systems?.

But anyway, before writing the car off for this, maybe just ask the garage?

You may well be right, but I'm very suspicious about cars for sale with warning lights on. Surely the garage would have noticed this, and would have checked the pressures and reset the system. TPMS has been about for years, they should be familiar with it.

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - SLO76
“You may well be right, but I'm very suspicious about cars for sale with warning lights on. Surely the garage would have noticed this, and would have checked the pressures and reset the system. TPMS has been about for years, they should be familiar with it.”

You’re putting too much confidence in sales staff. They’re lazy and rarely have a clue about what they’re selling. It’ll be a low tyre most likely but get them to verify it.
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - Andrew-T
You’re putting too much confidence in sales staff. They’re lazy and rarely have a clue about what they’re selling.

Absolutely - and why tinker with fiddly things before anyone shows interest in the car? They probably won't buy anyway, so wait until someone asks about it.

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
“You may well be right, but I'm very suspicious about cars for sale with warning lights on. Surely the garage would have noticed this, and would have checked the pressures and reset the system. TPMS has been about for years, they should be familiar with it.” You’re putting too much confidence in sales staff. They’re lazy and rarely have a clue about what they’re selling. It’ll be a low tyre most likely but get them to verify it.

It looked like a low tyre pressure. One of the tyres had been replaced for its MOT it seemed.

I believe these have a Deflation Warning System rather than a full TPMS anyway, so it is unlikely to be anything a major.

Still deciding the 2.2, out of the 3 engines in the Civic this is the one I wanted the least, but the condition seemed okay for a 7 year old car, plus it had FSH until last year.

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - Avant

What about that 1.8 - SLO's third link? A little above your budget but you might get them down to near £6,000.

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - SLO76

What about that 1.8 - SLO's third link? A little above your budget but you might get them down to near £6,000.

A one owner car with history. Sounds good and certainly worthy of a view.
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus

What about that 1.8 - SLO's third link? A little above your budget but you might get them down to near £6,000.

A one owner car with history. Sounds good and certainly worthy of a view.

I rang and enquired about That one and the best they said they could do is £6500, I’ll wait a little to see if it gets reduced as it’s a tad overpriced.
£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - pd

I can quite understand why the OP if doing a few miles a day wants a few creature comforts.

I agree a decent stereo can make a big difference to the enjoyment of a car and I consider bluetooth (for phone at least) an essential for many people. Loads of cars have these now so why settle for a buzz box without?

Civic a good choice although if comfort and stereo is your thing I'll throw a wildcard in and suggest a Volvo.

Any Volvo S60 or V60 will have great seats and all but the very base model a very good stereo and bluetooth. Your budget should get you a 2.0 with the 5-cylinder diesel which in 163ps form has loads of punch, loads of torque and will do 45-50mpg. Find a SE Lux and it might even have the radar cruise as well. I'd go for a manual if planning to take it to high miles but I've seen these with 200k on driving pretty much like new.

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - SLO76
“I rang and enquired about That one and the best they said they could do is £6500, I’ll wait a little to see if it gets reduced as it’s a tad overpriced.”

Don’t buy purely on price. A dealer won’t throw a good car away and if it is genuinely a one owner car with full history it’s worth paying a bit extra for. View it and if it’s good offer £6,000 face to face. Few will negotiate properly over the phone without a viewing, I wouldn’t and it was policy at the dealer I worked for not to either. They probably won’t agree but you’ll likely get it down a bit further if you look genuine.

Edited by SLO76 on 14/04/2019 at 19:52

£6000 to spend - model or Mileage/condition? - iFocus
Thank you for all of your assistance on this thread!

I’ve recently just bought a 2012 Kia Ceed GDi with one previous owner, full service history and only 40,000 miles!

Here’s hoping this car will be reliable!