Many thanks,I hadn`t looked there,only in the one near the battery box.That cover didn`t appear to have a seal,but no water in there.

When I reconnect the positive terminal(yes I know I should remove the negative,but it`s easier to do the pos),there is a big current draw in operation,very sparky,almost as heavy as starter solenoid being activated.At the same time there appears to be a click from the back of the car...relay for boot shut maybe??

Dash lights staying on.Radio display staying on,random times for random amount of time.Battery held charge fine for twelve hours overnight and ran well today.

I will check the fuse box tomorrow,thanks again.

Cheers

Some of the under dash fusebox wires run to multi plug connectors under the passengers front door pillar plastic.

Remove the kick plastic and check the connectors.

They are in quite a good palce for collecting moisture.

And have you had ALL the modules scaned in Global scan mode?

Applicability

This is for the MK3 Mondeo but will also work on the Focus (Mk1 and Mk2) and most other Ford vehicles with a digital trip meter.

Entering Self-Diagnostic Mode

To enter the instrument cluster Self-Diagnostic Mode simultaneously press and hold the tripmeter reset button and turn the ignition switch to position II.

When tESt is displayed in the LCD release the button.

The instrument cluster will enter the gauge sweep test.

To navigate through the Self-Diagnostic Mode tests press the tripmeter RESET button repeatedly as required.

The self-test is deactivated when the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position or when the tripmeter reset button is pressed and held for 5 seconds.

Available information

Your car may differ from these slightly in content and sequence:

· Gauge test

· All LCD are illuminated

· Indicator bulbs

· ROM level (r----)

· NVM (EEPROM) level (Er----) - this (e.g. Er0206) is often mistakenly assumed to be an error code!

· DTC revision level (dtC985)

· DTC. The DTCs stored will be displayed. The DTC codes will scroll through if there is more than one, or "nOnE" if there are none. See below for interpretation.

· Road speed mph (SP----)

· Road speed km/h (SP----)

· Averaged speed, some sort of hex reading (S60---), probably not useful to the end user.

· Engine speed rpm (TA----)

· Averaged tacho signal, some sort of hex reading (T60---), probably not useful to the end user.

· Odometer counter (od ---)

· Fuel level sensor (F ---, 010 (empty) - 254 (full))

· Averaged fuel level (F60---, range as above)

· Fuel flow rate (FL --, hex counter)

· Fuel percentage/remaining? Hex? (FP --)

· Cylinder head temperature (---C)

· Battery voltage (bAt---)

There are many other pieces of information not of interest to the end user, but you'll eventually get back round to the gauge sweep.

Cluster DTCs

To read the complete list of codes, you'll need a dedicated fault code reader plugged into the diagnostic port. Some codes are available via the cluster, listed under the DTC entry described above. These are:

· 115A (P115A) Low Fuel Level - Forced Limited Power

· 115B (P115B) Low Fuel Level - Forced Engine Shutdown

· 9202 (B1202) Fuel pump and sender unit/fuel level sensor open circuit

· 9204 (B1204) Fuel pump and sender unit/fuel level sensor short to ground

· 9317 (B1317) Battery voltage high (greater than 16V)

· 9318 (B1318) Battery voltage low (less than 10V)

· 9342 (B1342) PCM is defective

· 9342 (B1342) Odometer RESET button sticking

· 9342 (B1342) Trip computer SET button sticking

· 9342 (B1342) NVM memory failure

· A286 (B2286) MODE switch sticking

· 9359 (B1359) Ignition run/accessory circuit failure

· A477 (B2477) Module configuration failure

· D262 (U1262) Communication bus fault (missing CAN messages)

· E196 (U2196) Invalid data for engine RPM (Invalid CAN message)

· E197 (U2197) Invalid data for vehicle speed (Invalid CAN message)

· E198 (U2198) Invalid data for fuel pulse (Invalid CAN message)

· E199 (U2199) Invalid data for engine coolant temperature (Invalid CAN message)

· E200 (U2200) Invalid data for odometer (Invalid CAN message)

· E201 (U2201) Invalid data for ambient temperature (Invalid CAN message)

Hope that helps. Regards Peter

Thanks Peter,I haven`t tried all that yet,but will have a go soon.

Thanks Hardway,I really should have a multimeter,but somehow managed without one until now.

Yesterday morning the battery was as flat as a pancake...after being sat on a slightly sloping driveway overnight(car facing uphill), during 12hrs rain.That`s the third time in a row following rain that`s happened.No other times.Battery tested ok,no fault found.I have decided to fit a battery isolator for now.I first used one nearly 30yrs ago.Only £3.45 off the well-known auction site.

I will report back after I`ve followed the tips given above.

Cheers.

Reason for the mutimeter is it's possible to get a good indication about the state of the can bus coms just from checking two terminals on the diagnostic socket.

Get a meter and repost when you have and I'll run through the procedure.